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Tech Question for the Atari 2600 Paddles


classicgamingguy

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I finally had the opportunity to try out the paddles with a few games that actually utilize them (namely Super Breakout and Kaboom), but have noticed something.............disturbing.

 

The on screen paddle flickers terribly in the middle of the playfield. It seems to settle down at the far left and right sides, but turns into a "ghost paddle" in the middle. Any thoughts on this? I'm assuming at this point it might need to be cleaned, but I've never opened any controllers in my life. Frankly, I'm dangerous when attempting to repair items. Really dangerous. :roll:

 

Any suggestions would help get this cleaned up. The carts seem to work just fine. All the other games I've plugged in thus far are crystal clear. It just seems to happen on the paddle games.

 

Thanks!

 

Steve

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You need to clean or replace the variable resistors inside the paddles. They are 1meg if you need to know the value of them when you go to buy them at cellphone shack. They cost about 3 bucks a pop, usually a good cleaning gets them back to as new though. Just take them part and clean the black ring (the resistor pad).

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From the Atari 2600 Controllers page here:

A common problem with these units is 'jittery' movement on-screen, caused by dirt and other foreign objects in the controller pots. You can clean them by gently lifting off the top dial, and spraying some electrical cleaner into the pots you see. Replace the cover, and give it a few good spins to loosen it up.
I've used Precision Electronics Cleaner from rat shack to clean my paddles. Tuner Cleaner should also work.

 

Mindfield posted more indepth instructions here.

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Anyone have some visual instructions? Those would help me do it step by step. I tried the link in the other website for the visual guide, but the gateway kept timing out. :x

 

Are there any more common household products that would be the equivalent to tuner cleaner? I know, I probably should use the real deal, but I was wondering if there might be something lying around the house I could use instead.

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Anyone have some visual instructions? Those would help me do it step by step. I tried the link in the other website for the visual guide, but the gateway kept timing out. :x

 

Are there any more common household products that would be the equivalent to tuner cleaner? I know, I probably should use the real deal, but I was wondering if there might be something lying around the house I could use instead.

You really do not need any fancy electronics cleaner.

 

Take it from me, I've repaired quite a few sets of paddles. All you need is some Windex (window cleaner), a rag of some sort, and a phillips screwdriver to disassemble the paddles. Carefully take apart the casing, then pry up the little metal tabs holding the pot together, this will reveal the components of the pot that are dirty. Then just carefully wipe your lightly soaked windex rag and rub off the carbon deposits /and or rust that are on the prongs and the rest of the guts. Then just put everything back together and you should be fine. You should test the functionality of the paddles before you put em back together all the way, I would. Easy. If you want you can put a light amount of white lithium grease inside there.

Edited by Gunstarhero
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Thanks for the photos, alex_79. I notice in your 3rd photo that the pot had some remains of the graphite grease that Atari was so fond of, that seems to be the cause of 90% of the instances of jitter when it dries out, on the wiper and resistance element.

 

Another thing that I thought I'd mention, is the presence of a different grease-like material in the bottom of the metal casing (the piece with the tabs that are straightened to open the pot) and on the bottom of the plastic part of the wiper that fits into that part of the casing. This material is actually not there as a lubricant, but as a high-viscosity substance which intentionally gives the controller a certain amount of smooth stiffness. If this material is removed or contaminated by a different grease or lubricant, the paddle knob will turn much more easily. If you like the original level of stiffness, be careful to NOT remove this grease or get any other lubricant in contact with it. In fact, you could use a small screwdriver, toothpick, etc. to scoop out some of the material that has pushed out from the normal path between the parts and apply it evenly to the raised plastic ring on the bottom of the wiper to help restore the original feel.

Edited by A.J. Franzman
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Shawn, thanks. I'll attempt to do so tonight. What should I clean them with? Anything specific?

 

Steve

 

 

90 percent rubbing alcohol, don't use 70 cause it leaves a film.

 

Also get rid of any of the grease shit thats on them, all it does is gunk up the movement of the pot.

Edited by Shawn Sr.
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Do you have any other paddle games to try like Breakout? Kaboom! has a natrual tiny jitter in it's buckets, but it's very slight. Don't be confused by that thinking you got jittery paddles. By comparision if you use paddles that are jittery while playing Kaboom! it will be quite noticable as your bucket will be jumping out of control all over the screen.

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I just use the pressurized can of electronic controls cleaner. My cleaned paddles work fine that way. There are enough holes in the pot to get sufficient spray strength in there to do the job, apparently. I've done three sets this way so far.

 

Regarding the damping or smoothing or whatever goop in there: I didn't notice any difference in resistance to turning after cleaning my paddle controllers. But, they are all very easy to turn and I like them that way. So, I can't really guarantee the leave-it-assembled-and-spray-the-crap-out-of-it method won't cause unwanted effects in your controllers.

 

I did have to wipe a slight film of lubricant out of the inside of the controller, but doubt it would be a problem if I had just left it there. This method of pot cleaning has served me sufficiently since my childhood days of tinkering with radios and tv's so I figure why change now. :)

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I tried to spray the cleaner inside the pot without disassembly it, but the result didn't satisfy me. The jittery was reduced but not completely gone and after a few days a new cleaning was needed.

 

I then tried the disassembly method and that solved the problem definitely. After about six months the paddles are still smooth and completely jitter-free. I think "Circus Atari" is a good choice to test them: you can move the player with 1-pixel precision and you can notice also the slightest jittery. I also have "Breakout" but It seems to be less sensitive (probably the paddle input is checked less frequently in the code) and therefore I think is not suited for that purpose. I read somewhere that also "Video Olimpics" is a good test for paddles, but I don't have that game.

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To respond to a question listed in the post, yes, I've tested the other paddle games I have, and they all produce the same effect. I haven't been brave enough to open the paddles yet, but I wanted more info from this post before I did so. I'm going to attempt this tonight for sure. My wife is out of town, so I need something else to do, anyway. Thanks everyone for your advice and pictures.

 

-Steve :)

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I still haven't attempted this as of this post. I'm afraid to open the darn things because I don't want to ruin them. I think I have tech phobia. :roll: Well, since there's nothing on TV tonight, I'll screw up my courage and do it. As long as I don't hear a "snap", I think I'll be alright.

 

My phobia stems from attempting to clean Atari 5200 joysticks once. Spare parts, anyone? :sad:

 

Steve

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Some pics which may help you:

 

1- hex nut under the knob which keep the pot in position

th_paddle02.jpg

 

2- metal tabs which you have to bend to open the pot

th_paddle03.jpg

 

3- the pot disassembled, before and after cleaning

th_paddle04.jpg

 

th_paddle05.jpg

That's gotta be the most useful set of pics I've ever seen, most people don't describ how to actually take the damn pot apart, and just suggest dunking it in Alchohol to get it good and drunk and it'll be nice and loos for you....er...I mean twisting it till the black gunk comes out.

 

Thanks for that.

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Here's a note for the less mechanically adept:

 

When re-installing the pot into the case top, do not allow the pot to rotate and press against either of the guide posts while tightening the nut -- hold it between them. Otherwise, you could break the post off. Also, the nut needs to be rather firm, but not super tight (the case is only plastic after all!) If you can not rotate the pot body from inside the case with your bare hands, that should be tight enough.

Edited by A.J. Franzman
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  • 1 month later...

Nice..never heard of that game. Hmm, a homebrew? Anyway, things are good with the paddles. It really wasn't that hard to clean them, in spite of the fact that I have two left thumbs for every project I attempt. God didn't provide me with nimble fingers. :ponder:

 

Steve

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You really do not need any fancy electronics cleaner.

 

Using anything other than a mild contact cleaner will cause corrosion of the pots

over time. Windex is ammonia and Lord knows what else. Glass can handle

Windex a lot better than a pot will. Rub alchohol is not good either but it's still

better than using Windex. I would not recommend anything but eye glass

cleaner or even Visine. A mild saline solution. I kidd you not.

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