Atari A/V mod update
Started by Longhorn Engineer, May 30 2008 3:08 PM
827 replies to this topic
#176
Posted Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:00 PM
If you look at the schematic it says to lift pins 6,9,12,13. Make sure you use the CD74HC4050E instead of the CD4050BE.
#177
Posted Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:27 AM
6-switch guide done
http://www.longhorne...ods/6switchNTSC
4-switch will be done soon at this address.
http://www.longhorne...ods/4switchNTSC
http://www.longhorne...ods/6switchNTSC
4-switch will be done soon at this address.
http://www.longhorne...ods/4switchNTSC
#178
Posted Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:32 PM
Didn't get the mods shipped but I did finish 4/5 Guides.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
#179
Posted Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:35 PM
Longhorn Engineer, on Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:32 PM, said:
Didn't get the mods shipped but I did finish 4/5 Guides.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
.... working on that this weekend buddy, sorry it took so long, it was a heckofaweek. With any luck you should have the single chip boards Wed.25th by priority mail.
AX
#180
Posted Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:41 PM
the.golden.ax, on Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:35 PM, said:
Longhorn Engineer, on Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:32 PM, said:
Didn't get the mods shipped but I did finish 4/5 Guides.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
.... working on that this weekend buddy, sorry it took so long, it was a heckofaweek. With any luck you should have the single chip boards Wed.25th by priority mail.
AX
Sweet! Thanks Ax!
#181
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:21 AM
Consider this as an alternative to bending up chip leads. Take a chip socket and clip the leads that need to be lifted. Solder to this modified socket instead of the TIA. Plug that into the socket where the TIA was. Then plug the TIA into the prepared socket.
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
Edited by Frotz, Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:54 AM.
#182 ONLINE
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:45 AM
Ignorant question...
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
#183
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:31 AM
Frotz, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:21 AM, said:
Consider this as an alternative to bending up chip leads. Take a chip socket and clip the leads that need to be lifted. Solder to this modified socket instead of the TIA. Plug that into the socket where the TIA was. Then plug the TIA into the prepared socket.
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
I see no problem with bending the chip leads. The Sync and luma lines take from the board to deduce the amount of bent leads and part count on the board. You would need to add pull ups to each line if you disconnected them.
Ransom, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:45 AM, said:
Ignorant question...
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins.
#184
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 12:23 PM
When removing the resistor, can you just clip the legs, and solder the wire to the clipped leg?
#185
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 1:21 PM
Spazmonkey, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 12:23 PM, said:
When removing the resistor, can you just clip the legs, and solder the wire to the clipped leg?
Sure what ever floats your boat.
#186 ONLINE
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 2:49 PM
Longhorn Engineer, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:31 AM, said:
Ransom, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:45 AM, said:
Ignorant question...
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins.
Ah. Good plan!
#187
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:54 PM
Longhorn Engineer, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:31 AM, said:
Frotz, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:21 AM, said:
Consider this as an alternative to bending up chip leads. Take a chip socket and clip the leads that need to be lifted. Solder to this modified socket instead of the TIA. Plug that into the socket where the TIA was. Then plug the TIA into the prepared socket.
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
I see no problem with bending the chip leads. The Sync and luma lines take from the board to deduce the amount of bent leads and part count on the board. You would need to add pull ups to each line if you disconnected them.
Ransom, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:45 AM, said:
Ignorant question...
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins.
So I see that making modifications to a chip socket will indeed work. Clip some pins but not others and tap at the bottom close to the socket body. Aside from clipping two resistors and one capacitor, no soldering to the 2600's board needs to be done.
#188
Posted Sat Feb 21, 2009 6:43 PM
Frotz, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:54 PM, said:
Longhorn Engineer, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:31 AM, said:
Frotz, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:21 AM, said:
Consider this as an alternative to bending up chip leads. Take a chip socket and clip the leads that need to be lifted. Solder to this modified socket instead of the TIA. Plug that into the socket where the TIA was. Then plug the TIA into the prepared socket.
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
I see no problem with bending the chip leads. The Sync and luma lines take from the board to deduce the amount of bent leads and part count on the board. You would need to add pull ups to each line if you disconnected them.
Ransom, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:45 AM, said:
Ignorant question...
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins.
So I see that making modifications to a chip socket will indeed work. Clip some pins but not others and tap at the bottom close to the socket body. Aside from clipping two resistors and one capacitor, no soldering to the 2600's board needs to be done.
Most 4 switchers and all Juniors are not socketed. Thus using this method alienates most of Atari players.
#189
Posted Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:55 AM
Longhorn Engineer, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 4:43 PM, said:
Frotz, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:54 PM, said:
Longhorn Engineer, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:31 AM, said:
Frotz, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:21 AM, said:
Consider this as an alternative to bending up chip leads. Take a chip socket and clip the leads that need to be lifted. Solder to this modified socket instead of the TIA. Plug that into the socket where the TIA was. Then plug the TIA into the prepared socket.
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
Another question. Why are the SYNC and LUMA signals (among others) tapped at resistors instead of directly from the TIA?
I see no problem with bending the chip leads. The Sync and luma lines take from the board to deduce the amount of bent leads and part count on the board. You would need to add pull ups to each line if you disconnected them.
Ransom, on Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:45 AM, said:
Ignorant question...
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
Since I don't have the schematics for the 2600, I was wondering why the one resistor and one capacitor were clipped and then not hooked to anything. Does that disable the RF circuit?
They are clipped to keep the color line clean on the 6-switch. Alternatively you can just lift the pin 9 but this way reduces the amount of bent pins.
So I see that making modifications to a chip socket will indeed work. Clip some pins but not others and tap at the bottom close to the socket body. Aside from clipping two resistors and one capacitor, no soldering to the 2600's board needs to be done.
Most 4 switchers and all Juniors are not socketed. Thus using this method alienates most of Atari players.
I was just suggesting a means of applying the mod. The way I want to mod my own hardware is by the least changes to the old hardware itself.
#190
Posted Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:45 PM
Longhorn Engineer, on Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:41 PM, said:
the.golden.ax, on Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:35 PM, said:
Longhorn Engineer, on Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:32 PM, said:
Didn't get the mods shipped but I did finish 4/5 Guides.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
http://www.longhorne.../Atarivideomods
Just need the single chip Junior and they will be done. Also that page has the most updated schematics and designs.
.... working on that this weekend buddy, sorry it took so long, it was a heckofaweek. With any luck you should have the single chip boards Wed.25th by priority mail.
AX
Sweet! Thanks Ax!
We have gravy! At least one has now been located.
AX
#191
Posted Thu Feb 26, 2009 1:20 PM
Do you have an idea on when the PCB's will ship?
#193
Posted Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:36 PM
Cool, I can't wait.
Do you think you could post that drilling template by any chance? I see it pictured in your guides, but I can't find it anywhere to print out. I was actually looking for a good way to make my own, as I am using different video jacks, but I haven't been able to come up with anything yet and yours would be good in the mean time.
Thanks!
Do you think you could post that drilling template by any chance? I see it pictured in your guides, but I can't find it anywhere to print out. I was actually looking for a good way to make my own, as I am using different video jacks, but I haven't been able to come up with anything yet and yours would be good in the mean time.
Thanks!
#194
Posted Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:03 PM
Vectorman0, on Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:36 PM, said:
Cool, I can't wait.
Do you think you could post that drilling template by any chance? I see it pictured in your guides, but I can't find it anywhere to print out. I was actually looking for a good way to make my own, as I am using different video jacks, but I haven't been able to come up with anything yet and yours would be good in the mean time.
Thanks!
Do you think you could post that drilling template by any chance? I see it pictured in your guides, but I can't find it anywhere to print out. I was actually looking for a good way to make my own, as I am using different video jacks, but I haven't been able to come up with anything yet and yours would be good in the mean time.
Thanks!
Yah I will add it to the website later.
All the Unassembled kits and PCBs are ready to ship. People that ordered Blank PCBs will receive a free CD74HC4050E cause I kinda accidentally ordered 75 of them
#195
Posted Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:12 PM
Hi!
I thought of ordering a few kits but I didn't find any report on PAL compatibility here. Hm, maybe I completely missed it...
I thought of ordering a few kits but I didn't find any report on PAL compatibility here. Hm, maybe I completely missed it...
#196
Posted Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:43 PM
pepax, on Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:12 PM, said:
Hi!
I thought of ordering a few kits but I didn't find any report on PAL compatibility here. Hm, maybe I completely missed it...
I thought of ordering a few kits but I didn't find any report on PAL compatibility here. Hm, maybe I completely missed it...
We actually dont know yet. Mimo is going to be the guinea pig
Unassembled kits and Blank PCBs where shipped today. Expect them sometime next week.
#197
Posted Sat Feb 28, 2009 4:35 PM
#198
Posted Sat Feb 28, 2009 6:31 PM
When is the magic time for those of us who somehow missed out on the preorder?
#199
Posted Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:32 PM
Longhorn Engineer, on Fri May 30, 2008 4:08 PM, said:
7800 is done. I combined the D/A Ladder and a FMS64000 which is a S-Video filter. It outputs a clean S-Video image and a composite image that is multitudes better then any capacitor or analog combination. This chip got rid of most if not all of the bleeding common with video mods. Some games like Pole Position 2 still have a bit around the lettering (see pictures below) but it is much less then what it was. Ballblazer also suffered from this. Games that have a black background had some blue bleeding and smearing (see centipede below) which are corrected by the chip as well. I am quite happy with it and I am almost done with the 5200 version. Should be done Monday since I am going camping this weekend. I will be releasing the schematic for the mod after I finish the 2600 version.
thanks, DM
#200
Posted Sun Mar 1, 2009 2:24 AM
Only the 2600's are done. Once I get the Assembled Kits out the door I will open up regular orders.
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