w1k Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 hello, how i can clean my xl12? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Luckily enough you've stumbled onto a topic with 23 pages of information and detailed description concerning "How to remove yellowing from an old Atari case". Please read through the topic: it reiteratively contains all the instructions you require. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w1k Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 yes, i know, but some people using different cleaing techniques.. thats it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariLeaf Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 I'm going to try this one I have a Coco 3 case with some slight yellowing that I'd like to see if I can remove or at least lessen. This "recipe" seems pretty benign for a first try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w1k Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 I'm going to try this one I have a Coco 3 case with some slight yellowing that I'd like to see if I can remove or at least lessen. This "recipe" seems pretty benign for a first try. in slovak republic i cant buy OXICLEAN.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 (edited) in slovak republic i cant buy OXICLEAN.. Forget the OXY - I get by without it. Edited October 23, 2010 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My600XL Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) Go ahead and continue discussing plastics, but can we all just agree to not let that Billy Mays guy see this? I can only imagine the late night infomercials "oxycute-ing" all the old classics... I know this is off topic, but I was reading this post, and the above post was made excatly 5 months to the day before his death! On topic - I plan on trying this on an 800XL soon. Great write up! Edited November 7, 2010 by My600XL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 So far I've used a variation of the retrobrite formula on an XC11 (had day-glo green buttons) and on my Astra 2001 disk drive which had started to glow around the edges. Good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 The results of retrObright on an A800. Turns out that I added too much Oxy, so there was a lot of "blooming" that I had to get rid of with a magic eraser. It didn't help that it was unseasonably hot (85 degrees) when it's normally cool here (in the 60s), so it was hard to keep the gel wet. (I used 8% hydrogen peroxide, BTW.) To protect the new finish I used 303 Aerospace Protectant Wipes, (matte, not glossy). stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ataritard Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I thought my Atari 800xl was supposed to be yellow. This is something I'll have to try now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rik Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 (edited) I thought my Atari 800xl was supposed to be yellow. This is something I'll have to try now. That's what i thought also.Every 400 I've found is exactly the same shade of off white/beige, were the 400/800's PURE white?I don't mind the yellowish color anyway.Pure white is too dirt sensitive anyhow, off white hides better. Edited April 14, 2011 by Rik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I thought my Atari 800xl was supposed to be yellow. This is something I'll have to try now. That's what i thought also.Every 400 I've found is exactly the same shade of off white/beige, were the 400/800's PURE white?I don't mind the yellowish color anyway.Pure white is too dirt sensitive anyhow, off white hides better. Nope. They were beige. Look up a couple of posts at the attached "before and after." They get a real mustard-yellowing with age and sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 in slovak republic i cant buy OXICLEAN.. Forget the OXY - I get by without it. Because of persistent blooming I'm going to try leaving out the OXY. Are you saying you've used just H2O2 (what percent) and the thickener/wetting agents? How long did you leave the parts exposed? stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 (edited) in slovak republic i cant buy OXICLEAN.. Forget the OXY - I get by without it. Because of persistent blooming I'm going to try leaving out the OXY. Are you saying you've used just H2O2 (what percent) and the thickener/wetting agents? How long did you leave the parts exposed? stevem I know this is a painfully-long thread, but there is a ton of information in it, and you sort of have to make your own judgment about how long to leave it on. On a white computer, it really doesn't matter. On a grey/tan computer, it depends on how yellowed the computer is. If you read back some pages, you'll see that many of us have given up not only on the "oxy" but the thickening stuff and all that crap, because you can just get hair treatment "creme developer" at Sally Beauty Supply and brush it on, right out of the bottle. Here's a pic I posted to message #397 on page 16 of the thread..... I think it was winter then, so I was using a light. Forget the other stuff in the pic, the "Salon Care 50 vol" is what you want, only they won't sell you the 50vol (without a beautician license) so get the 40vol which works well. Best to read through the thread at the successes and failures of others (and what they said about it), to try to decide how long to leave it, because there are so many variables, and it's not an exact science - how yellowed is the equipment? If it's not bad, then it doesn't need much, and you'll probably achieve success easily. I think I started out with 20 minutes, and then 45, etc. I did some grey computers, with no problems...... If it's SEVERELY yellowed, it's riskier (talking about colored plastic here) because sometimes it takes so much treatment that it will bloom before it fully un-yellows; I had a grey disk drive that was SO yellowed (I think it's somewhere back in the thread too) that it looked like it had been spray painted gold. It was so severe it never unyellowed, and even bloomed before it fully un-yellowed. Edited April 14, 2011 by wood_jl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I've read many threads across the net, and I can't say I'm convinced to use the high peroxide concentration. The 8% "food grade" I'm using creates a gel that burns exposed flesh pretty readily -- I can't imagine what damage the salon stuff can do. Some users imply that the OXY causes the blooming. My results have been promising, but I need to cut down on the blooming. The glycerine and xanthan gum create a nice, smooth gel for brushing, so I'm going to try once more on another A800 case (minus OXY). stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I've read many threads across the net, and I can't say I'm convinced to use the high peroxide concentration. The 8% "food grade" I'm using creates a gel that burns exposed flesh pretty readily -- I can't imagine what damage the salon stuff can do. I, and several others in this thread, have used the salon stuff more times that I can count, successfully. This thread is rife with pictures that demonstrate it. Yeah, it doesn't feel too good on the hands. Some users imply that the OXY causes the blooming. My results have been promising, but I need to cut down on the blooming. The glycerine and xanthan gum create a nice, smooth gel for brushing, so I'm going to try once more on another A800 case (minus OXY). The salon stuff is "creme" developer, meaning it's a nice smooth gel, right out of the bottle. It works so well (for me) that they could repackage it and re-indicate it for this use. But I'd be interested in seeing pictures of whatever it is that you use. Yeah, nix on the oxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 Cool tips wood. I'm doing some experimenting with the sticky stuff and oxy + H202, and just plain old H202. I'll give the creme developer stuff a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevem00 Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 I mixed a batch minus OXY and indeed it seemed just as effective. The important thing seems to be not to let parts of the gel condense on the plastic -- it can lead to blooming. Does the salon creme resist drying out quickly? I tried to repaint the surfaces every half hour. stevem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) Just treated Rachel-Emma's 130XE case and each individual key with PrintGuard spray prior to despatch: This was after Retr0Briting (which I stopped just as the blooming started), so Rachel can keep an eye on how this one keeps its colour. Edited April 19, 2011 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Just treated Rachel-Emma's 130XE case and each individual key with PrintGuard spray prior to despatch: This was after Retr0Briting (which I stopped just as the blooming started), so Rachel can keep an eye on how this one keeps its colour. That's a nice looking 130XE. Might have to send some of my machines to the FJC De-Tanning Salon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 That's a nice looking 130XE. Might have to send some of my machines to the FJC De-Tanning Salon I wish I had given it the treatment the first time it was restored (it's one of the XEs in my gallery pic), and kept properly covered. It's not quite as nice as it originally was (although it's damned close!), but I don't think a cycle of restoration-yellowing-restoration is the way to go. Results inevitably degrade every time. Once the case is restored, it's time to seal / box / dust-cover, etc. This is kind of a new process, though, so I guess we're learning as we go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rachel-Emma Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 I believe I've discovered something else that works with regards to discolouration. I picked up a bottle of Nail Polish remover to do my nails and suddenly something clicked and urged me to put a drop on a cotton bud and try a little tiny bit on my 1050 disk drive and it's taking the yellowing and attacking the plastic straight away. If anyone would like to give this a go and give more of an insight on the best way to use nail polish mover then that would be great. For certain though, it takes off the yellowing and attacks the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unholy Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 I believe I've discovered something else that works with regards to discolouration. I picked up a bottle of Nail Polish remover to do my nails and suddenly something clicked and urged me to put a drop on a cotton bud and try a little tiny bit on my 1050 disk drive and it's taking the yellowing and attacking the plastic straight away. If anyone would like to give this a go and give more of an insight on the best way to use nail polish mover then that would be great. For certain though, it takes off the yellowing and attacks the plastic. Bad idea. The main component in nail polish remover is acetone, a strong solvent. Sure, it will remove yellowing. Together with the plastic, which will literally melt on contact. Acetone can be judiciously used to remove stubborn scuffs/marks, but we are talking a few drops on a cotton swab. Anything more is a recipe for a gooey mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 (edited) Absolutely agree. Acetone is a useful agent for getting rid of isolated "blooming" (I once had to resort to it when an ST case went wrong; the tale is well documented here), and also for "sealing" cut and sanded plastic edges (a technique I employ routinely when modding cases). However, it will take the lettering off keys, ruin the texture of cases, and have generally destructive effects if used injudiciously or in large quantities. Edited April 22, 2011 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Is there a formula to use this method on car headlights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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