matheus Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Hi Merlin I live in Brazil! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Look up Sureguard on Amazon for a suitable UV protective lacquer - it's in the photographic section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjlazer Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 (edited) I bought a really yellow 65XE for a good price so I figured I can do this Retr0brite on it. Unfortunately the 65XE has bad memory so I will have to repair it later, alas I did the deyellowing on it anyway! I bought the Clairol Professional Pure White 40 cream developer and just brushed it on every hour or so. Took about 6 hours in the Seattle sun! Edited August 21, 2009 by tjlazer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 I bought a really yellow 65XE for a good price so I figured I can do this Retr0brite on it. Unfortunately the 65XE has bad memory so I will have to repair it later, alas I did the deyellowing on it anyway! I bought the Clairol Professional Pure White 40 cream developer and just brushed it on every hour or so. Took about 6 hours in the Seattle sun! nice work, great results. Hope you get the MB fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 (edited) I bought a really yellow 65XE for a good price so I figured I can do this Retr0brite on it. Unfortunately the 65XE has bad memory so I will have to repair it later, alas I did the deyellowing on it anyway! I bought the Clairol Professional Pure White 40 cream developer and just brushed it on every hour or so. Took about 6 hours in the Seattle sun! Looks like a superb job. I notice here (and have noticed on a 130XE I've just restored) that very often the casing isn't too yellowed to start with. It's the plastic of the keyboard and console keys which seems particularly susceptible to yellowing. In this case, it was clearly very severe, but the good thing is you rarely get noticeable blooming on the lighter plastic of the keyboard: you can pretty much go to town with the peroxide. The 130XE I did just needed a scrub in the bath and a few keys treated for yellowing. I get the feeling the ST cases are worse for yellowing than the 65/130XE cases. I'm just waiting for a replacement case badge for my 130XE and I feel it will appear 95% mint condition. Edited August 23, 2009 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 I'm just waiting for a replacement case badge for my 130XE and I feel it will appear 95% mint condition. You can't ask for more than that. 95% restoration is excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) You can't ask for more than that. 95% restoration is excellent. It always amazes me how mint my eighteen year old 65XE looks since I put a new keyboard in it. The case wasn't discoloured at all, which is something I mentioned before about the XE cases. To my mind, that one looks new. The badge for the 130XE arrived today (along with a 4160STE badge), so I'll stick that on later. I'm going to give the keyboard another bleaching the next sunny day we have. I'll post pics later. I've seen boxed "new" 130XEs on sale on ebay for well over a hundred GBP, so to get one looking this good for £14 feels like a steal. Edited August 24, 2009 by flashjazzcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Glamour shots of the newly finished 130XE as promised: I had the keyboard out for another couple of hours in the sun today, then lovingly applied the new case badge. There's something uniquely satisfying about this restoration stuff; it's totally addictive. I find myself gazing at these pictures... no wonder my wife's jealous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Nice shots - I love the flare from the 130XE chrome. Where did the new badges come from BTW? Best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Thanks - the badges came from Best. Amazing that this stuff's still available. I got a 4160STE badge, too, plus some for another forum member here in the UK. This is the second time I've dealt with Best: previously, I ordered a replacement XE keyboard which unfortunately got hit with a hefty IR charge at customs. No fear with the badges, though. Just fitting the 4160ST badge now and it looks pretty neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) Glamour shots of the newly finished 130XE as promised:It's an excellent result. The XE looks mint now. Were the badges expensive from Best with shipping? I've wanted to replace my missing 1050 badge for years, it was removed when it got too badly scratched back in the eighties. I sprayed my 1050 and the XE grey a couple of years ago so they match a little better. Edited August 26, 2009 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Were the badges expensive from Best with shipping? Just email Bradley at the Best website with a list of what you're looking for. The 130XE label was $10, as are 65XE labels and the 4160STE labels are $5. The cheapest postage option to the UK was $7. Be aware, though, that the XE labels are apparently in short supply and there's a limit of 2 of each per customer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) Just email Bradley at the Best website with a list of what you're looking for. The 130XE label was $10, as are 65XE labels and the 4160STE labels are $5. The cheapest postage option to the UK was $7. Be aware, though, that the XE labels are apparently in short supply and there's a limit of 2 of each per customer.Thanks, I'll drop Bradley an email. I think I might actually have asked Best about this a few years ago but I'll check again I'd like to modify my XE case heavily when I next have time as I was planning a while back and make up a short badge from parts of others to display 320XE. Edited August 26, 2009 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) Actually looking at my last mockup I did last year, the badge showing only "Atari XE" is probably the better option. Edited August 26, 2009 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Actually looking at my last mockup I did last year, the badge showing only "Atari XE" is probably the better option. Looks great! There was another (MetalGuy's?) which has a short badge and four function keys from an ST. I often fancied fitting the SIO2SD inside the case as in your picture but I don't think the LCD display sits comfortably with the angled lines of the XE. Looks good in an XL, though. I'm considering moving my SIO2IDE towards the right hand side of the case when the VBXE is fitted and having a slot for the CF card in the side of the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) Looks great! There was another (MetalGuy's?) which has a short badge and four function keys from an ST. I often fancied fitting the SIO2SD inside the case as in your picture but I don't think the LCD display sits comfortably with the angled lines of the XE. Looks good in an XL, though. I'm considering moving my SIO2IDE towards the right hand side of the case when the VBXE is fitted and having a slot for the CF card in the side of the case.Yes that was one of the issues to solve. I was thinking about how to achieve the angled edges on the lcd and was thinking maybe of adding a lens on the edges of the lcd to spread the backlight to give it the effect of a complete panel lit up. A similar idea to the small lenses that are used to spread the light from led's. I'll give it a go anyway Edited August 26, 2009 by Tezz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I was thinking about how to achieve the angled edges on the lcd and was thinking maybe of adding a lens on the edges of the lcd to spread the backlight to give it the effect of a complete panel lit up. A similar idea to the small lenses that are used to spread the light from led's. I'll give it a go anyway It sounds intriguing and I'll be very interested in seeing the result of your labours. Looking at the feasability of this some time ago, I reckoned it would be just possible to squeeze the LED up into the space under the model number part of the case badge, with a suitable aperture cut out. Using an angled lens sounds like a much more professional approach, though. As it stands, I'm still looking for a cheap XMM301 modem to house my SIO2SD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Philsan Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Actually looking at my last mockup I did last year, the badge showing only "Atari XE" is probably the better option. I don't think the LCD display sits comfortably with the angled lines of the XE. The problem can easily be solved with SDrive: no lcd display! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 look what arrived in the post today:D Thanks FCJ:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashjazzcat Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 look what arrived in the post today:D Thanks FCJ:thumbsup: Great - photos please when you get them done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Actually looking at my last mockup I did last year, the badge showing only "Atari XE" is probably the better option. Great mockup - I have been wanting to do something similar to my 130XE, but I cannot find a decent place to install it, and not have it look out of place with the 130XE's case design. Stephen Anderson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezz Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Great mockup - I have been wanting to do something similar to my 130XE, but I cannot find a decent place to install it, and not have it look out of place with the 130XE's case design.Hi, yea it's surprisingly difficult to find a suitable place to fit the lcd in with the angled lines of the case design. It took a few rough ideas before I thought about doing it possibly that way. The regular rectangular lcd just looks out of place where ever I tried it on the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjlazer Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I found the Clairol Pure White 40 to work great! No need to thicken it or add any Oxy. Just brush it on with a small good quality paint brush every ~30 min in the sun, not too thick. I believe to took me 2 days of around 5 hours each day to deyellow that 65XE. On other less yellowed units one day does it fine. http://www.haircareking.com/Clairol-Pure-White-40-Volume-16/M/B0009R35GA.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempest Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Ok I've been out of the loop on this topic for a few months, what is the latest consensus on the best way to remove yellowing? Last I read it was the 40 solution, some thickener, and a UV light, has that changed? Also, is this technique good for the beige colored Atari's as well such as the 800? Tempest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 (edited) Ok I've been out of the loop on this topic for a few months, what is the latest consensus on the best way to remove yellowing? Last I read it was the 40 solution, some thickener, and a UV light, has that changed? Also, is this technique good for the beige colored Atari's as well such as the 800? Tempest That is the safest method. Works well on the beige kit too, but you have to make sure that the solution does not dry out as you run the risk of "blooming". An aquarium UV bulb is the best option, or you can use daylight (if you still get some sunshine!) but the risk of drying out is greater. I have doe 3 atari 400's and an 800 using the daylight method with no problems. Edited September 18, 2009 by mimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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