70 replies to this topic

[chompaw]

Looks Awesome..
ONLY 1 question how can u play Galaga on lcd must be like 2ms responce or is it a Computer monitor LCD?
I being 40 and growing up playing on 19 inch CGA screens must have the 15Khz mode complete w ROASTED contrast ,
NOT to mutch not to little Hit it just right ... from Caddy shack II....
anyway looks nice bright too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! also the mini LED marquee looks cool too .. and NOS sticker on Control panel looks like
you just removed the backing and just pressed it on that day you took pic!..
whole thing looks mint I would turn it off put 50¢ in then plug it back in then put a nother 25¢ in and play just to GIVE u 50¢ cause cabinet looks nice...
If i was there i would just hand the LUCK $ over...
Ps have you shot all bees down in demo tracktor mode to watch it reboot ... its cool..
also if its a REAL Arcade pcb? i forgot by now I think Mikes arcade still has HIGH score kits w dip menu on and in menu so you wouldnt have to futz w dips...
I just restored the POWER panel on my WIZ wor cabinet now a NON dedicated DEDICATED Mr. DO! cabinet... ill try to U load pics..
The whole time I thought my problem w MRdo was a chunk of solder on the z80B chip naw it was bad power going into arcade power supply so i removed
the HUGE midway transformer witch was not hooked anyway removed its fuze then relized the small one was a isolation/12v AC transformer one winding took 110V or 125V or 220V ac in to 115V Ac out for screen Wells Gardner k4616 4600 series CGA arcade monitor and the other winding gives out 12vAC for cabinet 25¢ lights! the saftey switch DOES NOT turn off the CONVIENCE outlet I was like HMM.. I found out the arcade power supply sucked it wont shut down like a compaq spare would if i shorted a chip on pcb so I swapped those. found out power AC 110V going into the arcade power supply had bad CRIMP
I called Todd from Summit amuzement and left a message YOU BETTER CHECK YOURE CRIMPS in this machine when it was a klax kit it looked like if there was a bad crimp somewhere there would be MORE shure enough .. anyway that was causeing mr do to reboot like static on line MADE me ferous I played 110 boards only to have it reboot YES i was using the free credit button on cabinet to short the rack advance dip switch but i wanted to make shure game would play . now It works like a charm.. then I mounted Compaq spare i think it was a k6II 450Mhz board i stole power supply from.. kept chip threw board..
I also replaced soldered all connections on transformer fixed a bad crimp on factory saftey switch at 1st it stumped me cause all pins on saftey door switch worked even if i pulled it out! but NO power to screen or flourecent Lamp on Marquee WTF i thought so i pulled connectors off saftey switch only to find one came out of its crimp This was AGE and A Factory 1981 crimp from Midway! I replaced crimp connector spade and replaced saftey switch now it works played 11 boards just as agressivly and hyperly w sound LOUD ;,.
I got lucky on ebay when i got the Mrdo pcb it has a Built in Sound amp!!! i think it might be running off 5v too I forget anyway even driving the 3 speakers from the WIZ wor it is LOUD ENOUGH to hurt youre ears its hard to adjust to normal V.
I also noticed since the COMPUTER power supply the compaq spare is plugged into the conveince outlet i can Run the Mrdo pcb w screen and cabinet power OFF saving $ and high score...
The Bking II in the same cabinet is A project thats off line untill i get a small RAdio shack sound amp to replace the one i have now witch is using up one of my Atari 800 power packs and now that i know its in there im taking it back! plus i should beable to find a crappy computer speaker system and chomp it to run off 5v instead of 12 if im lucky!! the cool thing about the compaq power supply or any atx power supply is it has -5v 12v 5v+ and sometimes 3.3v so if i ever need to run a It game like golded T I can just use power supply! Plus the thing i like the most is im not running lights off the compaq supply I run those off the iso transformer witch has to be on for the screen anyway... this leaves lots of 12v for things like marquee lights 12v computer fans and what not..

Pics before after huge is the WIZARDS OF WOR power supply no need then jamma jumble resting in coin box I guess Atari klax kits
figure you need 3 thousand feet of jamma wire...
now that i uploaded pics and can see what order they landed
ok pic 1 is board stripped off before I windexed it Last pic is after windex and whiped Note the cool 1970's wood grain on a REAL peice of plywood
not fiber board like todays crap Namco makes!!
2nd picture is back inside cabinet slid in note the white box on left thats the saftey switch cover i had to remove and replace a crimp on I was so happy to find out that was problem.. it took me the most time to figure out what the hell blue and brown ment vs Ac wireing I made DOUBLE DAMN shure I got that right it just didnt seem right that using a car fuse between two of the fuse inputs to get coin door to light seemed just wrong 0v was missing I finnaly found the loose crimp on saftey switch and it workd and is correct only blew one fuze That was purley a learning curve fuze anyway The windings in the isolation Transformer are totally seprate the 12v ov is NOT even close to the same as the 110v 0V besides the 110V 0V has to be different cause its a isolation one!! DUH I should have known that ... I just stole the same rating slow blow fuse from the non used HUGE transformer in pic 5.
ok pic 3 shows moved filter block... and picture 4 shows jamma jumble and power supply resting in coin door along w the $5 audiophile amp I used for
birdi king II witch i now have to replace since the compaq power supply stole the convience outlet plus I need a 12v or 5v one anyway I dont like the Atari power pack floating around anyway... and not least but last here is picture of the trackball . OK its a thumbball...
Next post i will keep my promise and show the inside of the wico control from bking so you can see the iso optolator wireing..
you know 5v+ is red and gnd is black..
then its just up down left right..
this means it has two recive infra red recivers in the up down wheel at 1st i thought there was only 1 recive led(ir recive led) there is two..
so total of 4 the transmit ones always get 5v+ the other ones get 5v+ then have extra leg for output!.......
anyway there are 2 more pics one of the control panel showing the white thumb wheel i used for bking and some crappy notes i used for joystick at one time to note the klax jamma wireing color code incase i ever replace thumbtrak w a 2nd joystick...

Next i will post pics of Wico control...

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Edited by chompaw, Tue Jul 7, 2009 10:40 PM.

[chompaw]

I originaly thought replacing power supply would be easy then i realized i had to Replace transformer and arcade power supply
and rewire the whole fuze block!!!..
WOW i didnt Realize How good the pictures my camera takes are..
The yellow jumper aligator wire is cause mrdo uses p1 b1 and since left control is only one on panel i decided to make both p1 b1 and p2 b1 b1! then its like using a ARCADE Atari Type controler... both buttons now do same thing instead of p2 b1 nothing... same use for bking II then just use trakball but bking has no buttons only start p1 p2 those are mini red ones like Spac invaders thats what i like about this control panel I can add differnt games w two buttons if i want..

Edited by chompaw, Tue Jul 7, 2009 11:01 PM.

[rmaerz]

chompaw, on Tue Jul 7, 2009 11:54 PM, said:

Looks Awesome..
ONLY 1 question how can u play Galaga on lcd must be like 2ms responce or is it a Computer monitor LCD?


<<<SNiP>>>

anyway looks nice bright too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! also the mini LED marquee looks cool too .. and NOS sticker on Control panel looks like
you just removed the backing and just pressed it on that day you took pic!..
whole thing looks mint I would turn it off put 50¢ in then plug it back in then put a nother 25¢ in and play just to GIVE u 50¢ cause cabinet looks nice...
If i was there i would just hand the LUCK $ over...

<<<SNiP>>>

also if its a REAL Arcade pcb? i forgot by now I think Mikes arcade still has HIGH score kits w dip menu on and in menu so you wouldnt have to futz w dips...

It is a MakVision LCD monitor from Suzo-Happ. It doesn't miss a beat but you can get tech info on the monitor from their Web site.

I did indeed take a pic the same day the side art was put on. A tip on applying Galaga side art is to use the hinge method and tape the art on the bottom and squeegee upwards. Two people is a plus to do this job.

I'm thinking of wiring up the coin door so that the game runs demo mode. On Free Play it sits there at the same screen. Does LCD suffer burn-in just as CRT or is there some space age technology that eliminates this.

I forgot to take pictures of the inside of the cabinet, but it is PC based MAME powered. I don't have the technical know-how to support PCB.

Lastly, on your Mr. Do! control panel, is that the original notes for wiring or did you write that?

Edited by rmaerz, Wed Jul 8, 2009 8:08 AM.

[awace]

rmaerz, on Wed Jul 8, 2009 8:07 AM, said:

chompaw, on Tue Jul 7, 2009 11:54 PM, said:

Looks Awesome..
ONLY 1 question how can u play Galaga on lcd must be like 2ms responce or is it a Computer monitor LCD?


<<<SNiP>>>

anyway looks nice bright too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! also the mini LED marquee looks cool too .. and NOS sticker on Control panel looks like
you just removed the backing and just pressed it on that day you took pic!..
whole thing looks mint I would turn it off put 50¢ in then plug it back in then put a nother 25¢ in and play just to GIVE u 50¢ cause cabinet looks nice...
If i was there i would just hand the LUCK $ over...

<<<SNiP>>>

also if its a REAL Arcade pcb? i forgot by now I think Mikes arcade still has HIGH score kits w dip menu on and in menu so you wouldnt have to futz w dips...

It is a MakVision LCD monitor from Suzo-Happ. It doesn't miss a beat but you can get tech info on the monitor from their Web site.

I did indeed take a pic the same day the side art was put on. A tip on applying Galaga side art is to use the hinge method and tape the art on the bottom and squeegee upwards. Two people is a plus to do this job.

I'm thinking of wiring up the coin door so that the game runs demo mode. On Free Play it sits there at the same screen. Does LCD suffer burn-in just as CRT or is there some space age technology that eliminates this.

I forgot to take pictures of the inside of the cabinet, but it is PC based MAME powered. I don't have the technical know-how to support PCB.

Lastly, on your Mr. Do! control panel, is that the original notes for wiring or did you write that?

I thought that Monitor looked Comercial I didnt see any hints of any plastic crap from a wallmart TV type screen and it looked like a screen i saw at bowling alley but that one was 22 inch but quality looked the SAME GREAT bright as hell and CGA vga and stuff... oh its a mame computer hmm does harddrive sleep after 3 mn I just got my magic jack to work w harddrive sleep I had to delete 16 instances of enum usb usbstorr tiger jet devices then give permition for 32 instances to allow my self to delete it but harddrive sleeps and i can swap between laptop and big machine I leave it on one machine now! I did how ever get a new 20 inch acer monitor at G sale for only $20
and WOW 1280x1024 60 HZ looks more like the 1152x864 mode looks on my tv threw the tvview but w no choppyness its like LCD BLISS
so put windows into sony kl7000 mode monitor unclick hide modes and start at 800x600 and go up untill you find its LAPTOP CRYSTAL CLEAR DROOL MODE!!!!!!!!
I found out on my laptop after installing my new ati driver I used the n610c older version on hp.com and it wasnt coruppt it went into 1400x1050!!!!! 32 bit automaticly!!! WOW...
thats intense especcally i can run 1280x1024 32 bit UNREAL TORUNEMENT MODE... and it does almost all nintendo dos 0.72 modes!! nesticle 043! w sound! Also i can run mame..
remember if you need mame32 067 -soundcard 1 -noscanlines -skip_disclaimer -skip_gameinfo -rol1?? anyway some versions of mame32 allow you to skip game info booting right into mame also if you right click mame32 then paste onto desktop!!! take the pasted shortcut and gointo properties and after mame32.exe -galaga -cheat
then the shortcut will boot galaga remember default and galaga properties in mame must be checked for skip game info then drag that shortcut to start up on start button then remove youre logon password for administrator.. IExample install xp pro on top of it self not console repair but other one then push shift f10 when it installs devices and change administrator paswsord to none then delete all other users or reinstall after you copy mame to a rom burn cd rom dvd rom who cares then when fresh install wants video card sound card network mother board drivers reinstall windows on top of it self AGAIN using the repair option not the repair console the one after f8 1st time pick fast format ntfs then once installed when it askes for administraotr password just leave it blank then when it boot to windows it will start on asking you user names...
this is when you can just push shift f10 and type c:\windows\system32\taskmgr
then kill msoobe or outof box experience or just push RESET button then you are administrator and you are ONLY user then goto secruity options make shure service called messenger is disabled then if sp2 already slipstreamed then stop and disable automatic updates then goto computer then delete user cn-vender microsoft..
then remove any logon as batch then remove any unwanted access computer from network and from terminal services. then very important.
this is why home sucks goto asministrative tools click on local security policy then click securityoptions being administrator! then click on
NETOWRK ACCESS Network PIPES that can be accessed anonymously delete ALL OF THEM! '
NETWORK ACCESS REMOTELY ACCESSED PIPES delete all of those too
NETWORK ACCESS and SHARES that can be remotely accessed delete those too DAMN tiger jet!
then click onto
user rights Assignment
click on
access computer from network unless you want access from remote computer youre self delete all
and same for terminal services delte all netowrk access
now youre computer is tighter than a frogs but and if you still have tcpip you can go online
also click on computer icon for system in control panel change remote to 1 minnute then disable remote
now youre computer is secure and if it has sp2 then change impersonate client after logon only to administrtor or none I would leave this one alone.
then if needed click share c: then advanced copy and give everyone complete access then you can install software when its installed take share away! this works for the other settings client and stuff but once done you wont have any holes unless you leave download active x on disable download active x after shockwave player and flashwave player installed then disable download active x then I usually leave all instances exept for local intra net active x disabled and all instances of download active x.
then if you missed out on drivers for computer on 1st install you can reinstall ontop of it self again using the after f8 repair option leave system intact reinstall ontop of existing windows dir it fixes it but remember when it installs drivers push shift f10 then using taskmgr you can run cdrom install of mb drivers install via 4 in one or nvidia bus driver 1st then video then network and sound REMEMBER PULL MODEM OUT 1st move printer port and com ports around keep futzing w acpi routing untiull sound and netowork card work its best to have it working before you do a fresh install then sneak in tv tuner then turn on printer port if you use usb printer disable printer port but move out of way 1st cause it sticks to last setting like midi and game port ALSO I FINNALY FOUND crak for YAMAHA SYXG50 driver not even having to use crak i found WHOLE DRIVER seprate from crak in crak dir it had yamha driver and uninstall too all i have to do to play driver is change date to 1998 wilst playing then if i want microsoft gs wavetable i can leave date normal.. its awesome I dont need old soundblaster and ANY ac3 sound card is yamaha compatible it seems to fix swap from best to good sound problem w UT. also works w MRDO dos in dosbox 0.72 nesticle seems to work FULL SOUND NO CHOPPS using 1280x1024 lcd 60Hz mode also ut said 2048bit once!! hmm lcd must need 2048M to emulate a tubes computer chip... this is awesome... ALL you have to do now is DONT THINK cheeseburger capital one when changing cold cathode tubes! trust me not a good idea broke laptop ribbon cable connector ribbon cable ok! SO i have a 1400x1050 Lcd peice of glass but no board to connect to good thing i had 3 laptops!.
once driver for video card installed in instaling devices you dont have to restart then windows loads kill out of box experince and become administrator and since you have no password or use userpasswords2 and automaticly logon or have no password and are only user remove security holes and remove guest logon locally... then you should beable to get it to START UP into mame32.exe -galaga -noscanlines -soundcard 1 -cheat
GOOD LUCK. thanks for pointing out it was a mame cabinet. AT LEAST you can run lcd and not waste POWER like my huge iso transformer and my wells gardner power HOG.
mabie you could goto microcenter and get 4 mini cold cathode tubes for case and use them in marquee instead of power hog 13 inch flourecent huge tube and its ballast!!!...
☺

[awace]

whell I think it would take FOREVER my dad gave me a TOSHIBA laptop where the Start button had a slight burn in but since it is where the start button is anyway you cant see it!!!! remember that computer sat in the sun all day I was told... ALSO you can just put screen saver to blank after 30 minnutes and harddrive 3 mn cause if you use a IPAQ a keybaord interface device from uk for mame once someone touches keyboard screen will wake up..
JUST DONT turn it on off on off on off like burger board at BK USED to be like.. NOW THEY HAVE A 2600 basket ball TIMER like thing on all bk boards to show DRIVE TREW LAST TIME our record was 30 seconds on a drive off!!!!! mostly it sits at 3:59 or 3:00 it seems to not make it past 4 mn it resets it self..
but the old burger board i got for free is TOAST cause cold cathode tubes all 4 were black on ends just like the ones in the ceiling!!! I wouldnt worry about burn in..
I had a mame cabinet ok it was just computer in porch but it was set up like mame cabinet it had screen saver after 15mn then if you touched a key like 1 2 5 3 6 7 or t or control or alt or space bar or arrow keys or any key it would go off of blank screen and if you needed harddrive it would wake... IE WIND MOVING mouse!!!...
I even had blinking keyboard leds!!! remember if you like asteroids use old mame32v 035 asteroids has disclaimers but sounds awesome pick 1152x864
if you need more mame versions pm me! I have lots. I think i have arcade.exe too I got at hamvention one year it had some licening paid up I dont know witch ones or anything about it.. As long as its for informational purposes and not used in a bootleg PCB you can run mame.. SO how many frames does mspacman go on that lcd when you push f10 f8 ? more than 1000/60 you have fast machine better than p III 512K more like P4

[awace]

rmaerz, on Wed Jul 8, 2009 8:07 AM, said:

chompaw, on Tue Jul 7, 2009 11:54 PM, said:

Looks Awesome..
ONLY 1 question how can u play Galaga on lcd must be like 2ms responce or is it a Computer monitor LCD?


<<<SNiP>>>

anyway looks nice bright too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! also the mini LED marquee looks cool too .. and NOS sticker on Control panel looks like
you just removed the backing and just pressed it on that day you took pic!..
whole thing looks mint I would turn it off put 50¢ in then plug it back in then put a nother 25¢ in and play just to GIVE u 50¢ cause cabinet looks nice...
If i was there i would just hand the LUCK $ over...

<<<SNiP>>>

also if its a REAL Arcade pcb? i forgot by now I think Mikes arcade still has HIGH score kits w dip menu on and in menu so you wouldnt have to futz w dips...

It is a MakVision LCD monitor from Suzo-Happ. It doesn't miss a beat but you can get tech info on the monitor from their Web site.

I did indeed take a pic the same day the side art was put on. A tip on applying Galaga side art is to use the hinge method and tape the art on the bottom and squeegee upwards. Two people is a plus to do this job.

I'm thinking of wiring up the coin door so that the game runs demo mode. On Free Play it sits there at the same screen. Does LCD suffer burn-in just as CRT or is there some space age technology that eliminates this.

I forgot to take pictures of the inside of the cabinet, but it is PC based MAME powered. I don't have the technical know-how to support PCB.

Lastly, on your Mr. Do! control panel, is that the original notes for wiring or did you write that?

I wrote that cant u tell noone can read my hyroglyhphice even mee!! i had to assume color code by looking!
thats the original wireing for WIZWOR PLAYER 2 jamma connections from klax wiring i stole and used for birdie king II I took some bad rally x pcbs after i fixed the one sold on ebay soldered all 72 jumper wires by hand replaced bad connections and sold good RALLYX to someone in italy . SO i used finger baord crunched then added own jamma connections to mrdo and birdie king and since MRDO only needs 1 control for upright i used p2 wireing for BIRDIE king as p1 when plugged into jamma hole corrctly..
so trak mouse has 5v+ from tatio POLE on left of birdie king pcb all threee poles including the 12v one are now on 5v cause i use external sound amp for bking so sound and game are all 5v I blew bking car amp up long ago!!! un uptown drunk in porch!!!! bad day.. anyway still get sound from vol knob pin!! then to external amp! works great..
thats what i need to replace so i can have back my atari power pack!. then back to usb mouse..
I dont remember if its even usb i didnt care just put 5v+ on 5v+ line on both opto iso trasnmit sides the bulb w only 2 connections the other ones need 5v+ then have two outputs up down or left right SAME AS the WICO ARCADE CONTROL I got from birdie king 1 pcb witch i took bking 2 roms from bootleg bking II pcb witch i blew trakball input chip and screwed up traces replacing chip after i learned JOYSTICK inputs for mame are trakball inputs!!!!! so using tiewraps I put the mini trakmouse with its modification scrapped all chip connections off and only used opto iso connections witch is all in wico one ALSO I JUST FIGURED OUT atari trak ball IS probably a WICO PRODUCT since I was able to STEAL black ball and use for arcade wico works great now i need rollers and new berings BUT want a HAPP lighted one then i could hook lighted led to keyboard lights that would be cool ... and now that i have compaq spare as power supply for arcade monitor if i got a jamma tv tuner i could run ch3 or video from tvview into arcade monitor.. OK back to nap time.

Edited by awace, Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:05 PM.

[awace]

Does Galaga Have all sounds and did you get Mame32.exe added to the start button from 2nd desktop shortcut so you could
mame32.exe -soundcard 1 -galaga to start up
so to make this more understanable
from desktop make new shortcut make shure ite a paste shortcut not just paste then
after it makes a link right click on properties and in the run command box add

-soundcard 1 -galaga
after the mame32.exe and drag to startup
then mame will run after logon!!! with galaga and if you have correct version like 067b it will skip discalimers and stufff..
and does it have the BANG.sam .
to make it simple does it run galaga to youre specifications!? do you Like how it plays and WHATS youre NEW high score?.
I would list mine but my arcade pcb keeps making credit noises and wont stop I decided to retire it.. to the board shelf and replace it w pacman.
I might try to reserect it or ebay it? it says 1 9 8 2 and you cant shoot down during demo.. otherwise hornets act exactly same.. as REGULAR
Namco Galaga .
PS. have you tried the FAST shoot Galaga on the lcd yet probably FUN.

if you use a round key you can nip off outer nipple on key for the lock then you can remove it open postision and if you dont have a saftey switch WITCH YOU wont need since you have lcd screen ! you colud leave coin door locked open like i do on my other machines then you can swing door open to flip credit switch then you wont have to futz w hidden keyboard! I missed do you have a ipac keyboard interface and or how did you hook inputs to mame?

Edited by awace, Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:51 AM.

[rmaerz]

awace, on Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:45 AM, said:

Does Galaga Have all sounds and did you get Mame32.exe added to the start button from 2nd desktop shortcut so you could
mame32.exe -soundcard 1 -galaga to start up
so to make this more understanable
from desktop make new shortcut make shure ite a paste shortcut not just paste then
after it makes a link right click on properties and in the run command box add

Here are all the steps to hide Windows (as best possible) and launch Galaga:

* Delete all icons from the desktop
* Set desktop background color to black
* Hide the taskbar
* Disable services and apps not needed
* Run MSCONFIG | BOOT.INI and select /NOGUIBOOT to get rid of the WinXP splash screen on boot
* Edit the POWER OPTIONS in Control Panel | ADVANCED | POWER SCHEME | ALWAYS ON and select NEVER for monitor and hard disks
* POWER OPTIONS | ADVANCED | PRESS POWER BUTTON | SHUTDOWN
* Install TWEAK UI and configure AUTOLOGON
* Create a BAT file to run MAME32 <ROM NAME>
* Run REGEDIT | HKLM | SOFTWARE | MICROSOFT | WINDOWS | CURRENT VERSION | RUN and add the key START /MIN <path to BAT FILE>
* In REGEDIT go to HKEY_USERS | .DEFAULT | CONTROL PANEL | COLORS | BACKGROUND and set the value to "0 0 0" - this sets the background color to black when Windows shuts down

awace, on Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:45 AM, said:

I missed do you have a ipac keyboard interface and or how did you hook inputs to mame?

I used a Hagstrom KE18 - this is the lowest model they have and you don't need anything more powerful than that for a dedicated MAME powered Galaga cab. I mean, you only have LEFT/RIGHT, FIRE, ONE PLAYER/TWO PLAYER START and maybe wire up the coin door for COINA and COINB.

Wire up the KE18 using the Hagstrom MTA cable accessory and a Galaga wiring harness from MikesArcade.com (see the pic in post #32). You need to purchase a separate Male Molex connector (available at MikesArcade.com) and crimp the MTA cable ends into it. Then, simply reconfigure the inputs for the ROM itself based on how you've wired the control panel to the KE18. The Lazy way is to fire up Notepad and press each button and jot down the corresponding keystrokes.

Does this make sense?

Edited by rmaerz, Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:12 AM.

[rmaerz]

Last night I wanted to play a little ColecoVision before bed but the kids had the tube tied up with SpongeBob. So instead I went down to the basement and played my Galaga cab in the dark by myself.

Now, isn't that in stark contrast to the peak of the classic arcade era where arcades were packed and folks were lining up their quarters for a chance to play Frogger or Pac-Man? If one would develop a documentary film on the classic arcade you could almost make this the last scene of the film: someone playing an arcade game alone in their house - machine power off and then roll the credits.

[monzamess]

rmaerz, on Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:26 PM, said:

Last night I wanted to play a little ColecoVision before bed but the kids had the tube tied up with SpongeBob. So instead I went down to the basement and played my Galaga cab in the dark by myself.

This is why I'm moving mainly to portables. Just got a new-to-me PSP yesterday in fact. They're just so convenient, and with the DS and PSP, they've finally crossed the threshold on size, battery life, display quality, and computing power to keep my interest.

[awace]

wow I do want you to know that you can still sleep harddrive after 3 mn in windows and it will wake up
when it needs to I do this on my machines becasue i HATE the spin noise and one time.
I had a seagate 20g break cause it kept scraping in one spot I guess now they use cache more and just tell heads to ignore the RESTING area untill there needed ;l, but i figured out Unless you use screensaver and sleep harddrive together ESPECCIALY suspend!! no no you can usually get away w 3 mn sleep and no screen saver no suspend and it wil almost evey time wake up YOU MIGHT pick 30 mn cause you might play for 30 mn unless youre kicking its ass in that instance you would have no problem waiting 11 seconds for it to wake up for a f12 SNAP of youre high score..
I once had a pci soundblaster dos driver working w freedos!!! it loaded setblaster= a220 i5 d1 p330
it was awesome and loaded into mspacman off of a 32M lyra rca compact flash drive to ide I was like so awestruck by it but now they have for $250 solid state harddrives I wont go threw that mutch stuff but at one time i did.. I also one day was screwing w gpedit.msc using the msdn version of xp witch bitched about activation before i figured out my dad told me they dont care just actvate I was like ok
but since battery died in c-mos and i forgot to put new one in ! i used gpedit.msc to add logon script and had mame loading before logon screen and after so even though it wasnt activated i was able to run iexplore and mame before logon screen even started SO I activated then just switched back to oem version VOL licence version but forgot how i did the logon script I think i just took the pasted
shortcut on desktop i pasted into startup mame32.exe -galaga -cheat then i pasted that link into logon script so it started before the logon script did so if you had wireless keyboard hooked to usb and mouse or happ trakball you could logon by pushng esc after galaga started this would be cool cause it would load mame before logon then you could start windows then if you logoff it could run mame again
so you could have mame before logon and as startup in windows and as whell a logoff mame file so every instance it would load mame -c:\mame\galaga galaga -cheat
I kind of envy that cabinet cause When i had the cabinet i still have in the avatar my space invaders cabinet i once used the b/w screen w laptop to to the same thing u did but w out lcd i used the original b/w space ivaders screen using the tvview in b.w i had only 2 colors it was awesome cause i only needed 2 anyway!!! i laughed when video card only loaded 2 colors i was like I only need 2
then i got 32bit back.. I even went online in b/w w mini track mouse and external keyboard wirelessly the mouse was wired but the keybaord was wireless About 5 years later JP figured out how to use mouse wirelessly then lost mouse.. I then decided to add color tv to space invaders cabinet then finnaly decicded to replace original all spaceinvaders COSTED $300 in boards on ebay but was whell worth it now i finnaly got a dell optiplex loaded in my room i was using as furnature as desk but now i can respond reply using it I also figured out how to share files w my self again I also got a new burner and READ 9316 Space invaders arcade roms from original space invaders pcb then decided to test w mame it WORKED all i did was hook to $16 ebay willem eeprom burner as a 2716 normal non tms then
rewired pin 19-21 i guess pin 20 or something went to pin 19 on burner then one got gnded to pin 12 GROUND!! then whole right side I could leave alone those a1-9 a9 was all same so only pins 18-21 needed futzed and i had to add 12v -5v and 5v+ to chip to get it to read once read i didnt need it anymore just had to figure out how to FAKE one.. I actually DID it I read 9316 then played in mame..
now i know how to fake one where ever a10 needs to be then put so a tms 2716 needs a10 on pin 19 and non on pin 20 or somethng anyway i made 2 socketes into a converter to test 2716 in space invaders set up to read tms2716 chips witch need same voltage as 9316 but line a10 in differnt pin
I actually got space invaders TEST rom from internet working... so now i can copy chips and modify new ones I also took my homebrew atari wilkson cart and made 4 new roms for it I had 5 new 2764 chips from hamfest w 26 pins so i decided to burn roms w new burner and they worked HACKEM runs on flashback II and on original atari 2600 sears arcade II witch is same as 2600 w fuky leds... I also tried to make my own 2600 cart using a 7404 w no luck have to ask more info about that but i think i am going to stick w buying a PIXELS PAST pcb and complete w pal chip to make it easy on my self ..
The new power supply in mr do fixed the reboot problem and works great the power switch only like SpAce INVaders only shuts off screen so if i leave plugged in it leave computer (compaq spare) on so high score stays only running computer power supply no screen saves power and TUBE... even saves marquee cold cathode warm bulb.. also you dont have to worry there is a service on ebay to repalace LCD cold cathode tubes for laptops and TV's!!! so youre in luck if they get weak .. The Data east cabinet JUST SHUTS off completely.. The one day i had tv in space invaders cabinet i went online then booted to GALAGA then decided to restore SI I now have deluxe part II midway pcb in it but the glass is original space invaders even says BALLY® I still havent figured out how to change from 1500 to 1000 extra laser base But I will I want to beable to get over 5000 points before I futz w preset cheat mode witch is not avalible on MAME! but its cool you can start at any point level like 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000 its cool when you start at bottom 9000 level there already at past sheilds and are READY to overun base..
HEY I almost forgot YOU could ADD A Rip apart a vcr and ADD RCA plugs in back of arcade cabinet for VIDEO IN then play plug play or use tv tuner in cputer cpu and watch on new LCD tv!! .
WOW and im not even tired but yet i RAMBLE on.. I am thinking of parting w a magnavox oddyssy II
like 4 carts . if anyone interested let me know where to post that

[awace]

monzamess, on Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:32 AM, said:

rmaerz, on Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:26 PM, said:

Last night I wanted to play a little ColecoVision before bed but the kids had the tube tied up with SpongeBob. So instead I went down to the basement and played my Galaga cab in the dark by myself.

This is why I'm moving mainly to portables. Just got a new-to-me PSP yesterday in fact. They're just so convenient, and with the DS and PSP, they've finally crossed the threshold on size, battery life, display quality, and computing power to keep my interest.

I have been waiting paitently for someone to get a PSP that I knew or even was aquainted with cause i long ago downloaded a ATARI 800 emulator file for psp then could never afford one but have been drooling over one at pawn shop.... if you want emulator file i could find it for you

[rmaerz]

awace, on Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:20 AM, said:

wow I do want you to know that you can still sleep harddrive after 3 mn in windows and it will wake up
when it needs to I do this on my machines becasue i HATE the spin noise and one time.

I took that in consideration and I got rid of the "spin noise" by installing an 8-GB IDE flash module. No moving parts!

I disabled all the Energy Saver options to make sure that stuff didn't interfere with game play.

http://www.transcend...il.asp?ModNo=28

[awace]

wow rambling again..

eliminating the need for dosbox and freedos..
then by mistake i had P III single pcb plugged into the back plane for power and left the extra ide power plug pluged into the single board pcb and took the back plane off cause the pci only back plane wont wake up the 486
YES I DIDNT KNOW WHAT THE WHITE POWER CONNECTOR WAS FOR UNTILL I turned on the BIG BLUE old 486 power supply freind wayne gave me althouh the power plug was wired wrong cause he said he had threw the case away i looked at a other 386 i had and figured out the poiwer switch jumpering and viola it came on the 486 powered on single board 486 this one had heat sink clamps too so at 33Mhz it booted then i heard the p III BEEP i was like huh no back plane where is power coming from OH yeah the extra ide power plug was still plugged into the P III single board computer and i was like hmm forget the mono soundblaster I stole the back plane i was using from my self and unplugged the 486 put a 66Mhz chip in and moved some jumpers found out i have like 3 working 33Mhz 486 chips and like 2 working 66Mhz chips then ran low on silicone heat sink paste... then decided to goto the single board P III board with its weird back plane plug but decided to see what it did w isa 8bit soundblaster anyway to make a long story short the word yamaha on the ibit isa soundblaster branded soudblaster reminded me when my freind gave me a 386 that he said locked up on sound SO I LOADED doom and changed levels to change the midi and it unstuck!
thats when i relized midi can get stick and if you have built in midi you have to diable it AFTER you move it out of the way of the external pci or 8bit isa board and you can only choose one midi device for playing keyboard at a time..
so selecting the correct GALAGA sound like midas or SEAL insteAD OF directx sound might speed galaga to not glitch or slow up a lot ...
also -noscanlines -nodouble -640x400 or something like that
mame 067 seems to be the best galaga but remember every single version of mame has a differnt version of galaga roms
and ON the pcb i had the GALLAG d-g-07 pcb the tractor beam cant be shot down in the demo and it just said
1 9 8 2
no ©
but the so called bootleg version of gallag could have very whell been the original version of the game..
NAMCO probably bought the rights before they licenced MIDWAY to make galagas in us aslso
anyway i foundf out using a tvview external vga to compoiste and nvidia and custom modes i figured out my 22 inch gamer monitor even thought the hdmi cable is toast with ps3 hdmi connector does not work ..
but the vga connecor works!
great and will wake it self up and even once choosen to VGA mode it will sleep and wake..
also there are some cool modes for xp
like
2048x1536 custom KLW-7000 sony monitor mode
2048x1536 30Hz 48Hz 43Hz but 60 Hz shuts off on lcd but stays on vga to tv box... even 200Hz 2048x1536 works on tvview but who can read that w out zoom
now 2048x1536 30Hz works but is so overscanned on this 22 inch screen it wont fit but 2048x1050 works in 30Hz but works great in 60Hz it seems that a 22inch lcd uses 1050 like my old compaq n610c laptop does any mode w 1050 after it looks great I even added 800x1050 and it looks tweeky like nesticle mode... but cool
as far as my eyes i can use 1600x1050 and still read..
althogh 1152x1050 is really cool.
its strechy but not clock blury!!! hope this was not to

[awace]

Hmm a google cache dragged me back here for more ranting..
its weird how long ago i downloaded a psp atari 800 file w no psp to run it on then my brother in laws outlaws my brothers wifes sisters husban gave me 2 ps3's
on red screen of death other no power at all .
1st rip appart both ps3's then add silicone heat sink paste then reput back together no hair dryer needed PUN..
then read up on how linux can be loaded if you have oldenough version ps3.
luckally then one that didnt power on booted w the redscreen of death's ps3 power supply and eventaylly stealing the red screens optical dvd/cdrom/blueray bdrom drive...
i got a working ps3 and since i never had a ps3 and dont have $ why jail break it so like the psp they could lock it down so i never upgraded!! i instead downloaded a back up of 2.76.
ps3/update/updat.pup
then burned cdrom.
then stole harddrive out of red screen ps3 and freind reseated power supply witch i thought was dead and got red screen powered up but it red screened again probaly because the silicone themo paste was so dried up and toasted it over heated..
anyway the harddrives turned out fine 2 80G sata laptop drive one seagate and one fujitsu..
anyway long story short got one usb ps3 joystick with home button and linux loaded using pititeboot and loading ubuntu 9.10{power pc ps3 version} in the OEM MODE who cares if for manafactures only whell its cool cause oem chooses even the VIDEO mode and isine i dont have hdmi the lcd screen wont work w it and using tv tuner would just be so lag why even say..
anyway back to ATARI I actaully after oem linux loaded i got the petiteboot to choose linux install and it actually loaded..... U used a usb spltter/hub its one of theose 1 to 2 usb dongles and even thougth no xp it worked how the F does that plug play work?? must be the linux NOT it worked in ps3 os browser but farmville wont work but castles of camelot works w ps3 browser...
almost got flash player loaded for .debien .deb firefox.. opera worked too.. then i loaded .deb packs for stellax from sourceforge and atari800.exe sourceforge.deb packs and to my surprise
atari emulation and linux ubunto works on the ps3 so since i cant afford ps3 games and never played one yet why upgrade and the other ps3 i probably part out on ebay for parts
cause heat sinks case fan power supply all work blue tooth adaptor an all that crap work on extra red screen ps3 and since hdmi didnt work on sceptre 22 inch gamer I probably will just leave ps3 at the 2.76 version if i get a lcd tv then mabie ill try it on hdmi but for now it loads stella and plays 2600 emulation wont fullscreen but none the less works w joystick the video mode in pitite boot lets me choose 480i only works 5 something rolls and wont synk.. so im thinking mabie ill bring ps3 to pawn shop to browse a lcd tv to see if linux boots to bigger mode or is it oem locked..
the good news is if atari800 works on ps3 why not linux on psp or just one of those atari800 ports.. remember you need actual basic cart to beable to run basic rom for informational and educational purposes now running linux on a ps3 not intening to jail break or use ps3 network seems ok to me and they even let you upgrade the picture app w out having to update to 3.6.
sorry for rerambling again .. but im glad i found my old cabinet pics HMM must have been the lead piosinging from soldering that gave me ramblings ..
oh its 4am insomina too or mabie im just a little geekey

[awace]

hmm looking on google it looks like atari800 on psp is not as big of a deal as linux..

but why does sony care youre not chomping a bios its still on the motherboard..

and owning a game is the recipt not the code!!..

[awace]

the recipt menanig why would you want a 50gig game on the harddrive instead of the blue ray disk like unreal tounrment 2003 with the factory autorized crak and the ORIGINAL cdrom I MEAN
optical rom you can load patch no optical rom/ram patch and finnaly 436 patch you can run w out the optical disk what i mean is SONY would be making a mistake instead of charging to play online games online they could just charge for per movie bandwidth usage when like watching like netflicks.
i now see why sony wanted to lock the operating system cause with linux you probably get into the netflix cache witch would be since sony owns lots of MOvie they would not want you to beable to chomp a movie good thing i dont care about net flix but if i did big deal why would i want to play atari on a PS3 when my computer works fine w atari emulation and a blue way player that works on my tv would not be so bad if i didnt upgrade . I do wish i had a PMP or a psp since they are portable.
the good news is a ps3 takes exactly the same power as a 800 and a 810 power pack! lame huh but way neater looking wires and it plays BLUE RAY opticle disks and no compression feathers on a 50gig disk playing a 30 gig movie in 1920x1050 ! i probably could watch a movie on tv w out feathers and still play atari emulation.

[awace]

Just remembered something oh just to let SONY KNOW if i wanted a movie i wouuld get it from WALLMART NEW with the cool jewel case!..
anyway just remembered this i still have my macroscrubber!! and remembered this.
if you have a psp and atari800
this http://psp.akop.org/atari800/ reminded me of
Moonpatrol on atari8bit if you push left up and fire fire fire keep firing andd then push 1 or 0 i cant remember but it starts a demo but w sound and repetes ...
a nother thing in atari800.exe if you have like 2 shared mirred disks and before you run atari800.exe you in dos using dosbox it even worked!!!!!
attrib *.* -r -h -s -a /s being that dosbox is in the subdir that youre atari/atr and atari800.exe is in if youre on say c: the /s would root all dirs out from that attribing the write protect since most atari800 emulation roms would be coming from youre cdrom burn if you wanted to modify a actual atari basic game or file you actually typed in youre self or created and wanted to fart around w emulation and save files to .atr you ave to share w everyone and system and copy security e everyone on the .atr file you want to modify.
say the DUEL program me and my brother typed in from COMPUTE or byte cant remember then me and him and some help from my dad and his math class I changed the explosions to sprite in
my password protected .
atari basic disk w S.P.A.C.E menu program from Eugene, Oregon disk of the month
atari interest group Saint paul atari space group disk of the month menu program witch .
.
I modified to fit more filenames and changed the disk to load w out dup and renamed my basic program to use traps and disable the break key to ask for password when you rebooted kind of like a kiosk so it would run menu.bas but i just renamed menu.bas to dir.bas then changed my boot trap file to autorun.sys and it booted in that file unlike a pc atari800 basic files can boot from just renaming them to autorun.sys so for information educational purposes the sound on the ps3 sounds like same the good thing is with atari800 emulation i dont have to try to steal 256k chips from my compaq PORTABLE II computer's memmory upgrade pcbs to run a 64K atari800xl and also dont have to worry about light ning ruining the atari800 disk drive cause those people who used to repair atari disk drives are busy activating cellphones way up north I mean WAY up north like evilith thought i was bored HAVE YOU SEEN a DIGIKEY CATALOG LATELY they have like
1528 pages in the 2005 catalog and its easyer to run an emulation file than to try to look for power supply parts for my original atari800 but I still have the original 10k rom cart in it why wouuld i want to find a10 when someone else did plus it stinks and i dont like fires.. so i would think it would be safer w emulation.

[awace]

If i upgrade the ps3 to 3.?? I wouuld just probably buy a atari antholigy game anyway.

[awace]

Whell even though i had some long rants last five years I FIXED the DELUXE space invaders ORIGINAL ARCADE CABINET complete w unknown serial # original WELLS GARDNER

black and white sylvania TUBE still works need caps for underneeth the chasses .. hope i dont lose mounting screws when moving..
the original space invaders cabinet w the orignal
SICT number from cabinet MIDWAY number 0201
I finnaly figured out that the two bottom left chips on sound board can get STUCK
and the lower lm3900's can get it stuck its weird but after learning the non delux board had 4 bad lm3900's and those have differnt sounds each..
I finnaly got ALL SOUNDS working but the coin counter is gutted cause i broke it when i was 9 or 10 years old at

A Bally® Co. on the Glass hmm i need clips!!!
..

now as far as TAX on a coin counter youre RESTURANTS profits are based on youre GROSS YEARLY profits anyway and the COIN COUNTING machine at the bank uses LCD coin counter not a mechanincal one just like ATARI TETRIS KLAX witch use NVRAM SPACE INVADERS could not remember coin info but could display it on the screen!..
NOW A BRAZE kit may now work since i found some long pins on those PC104 VIDEO boards and i can always open coin door and play VCR into the RCA plug I added to the cabinet on the screen so i can play Atari when i want ..
OH i almost forgot it sometimes still shows the DOT when you shut it off..
also at the bank yesterday I laughed cause there so called new fangled coin counter was replaced by the older lcd one not the one w the SCREEN TUBE !! making me think there is a connection to mechanical coin counters and LCD coin counters or just using that exact coin counter not the on in the game cause the taxes are based on youre profits if you spend $300 on pcbs on ebay just to find 3 working lm3900's and only get one to work and you have 50¢ in coin box I see nothing to TAX..
although if JAPAN ran out of quarter sized YEN in 1979/1980 then LCD coin counters would probably work better but NVRAM would work even better but when you gamble on a 3 line slot machine and put 4 quarters in every time you put $ in and once and a while one comes back but you obvibously lose 1 quarter every bet but once and a while get it back DO YOU care NO as long as the odds on the machine are 75 not 55% witch depends on the c-mos revision..
the only thing you have to worry about is HEAT sink paste drying up THE ps3 has almost a half cap full on the mini toothpaste size tube for each cpu but a mame cabinet using a cpu needs checked every 3 months! especially on a DELL the good news is when i DELIVERED A enevlope to ACTIVISON once somewhere in MN I asked if anywone remembered ATARI 800 Pitfall and she said I remember that game I said I got a Cart from Good will cause I didnt have the $ to get one from K-mart when it came out and Told them How i didnt have the INstuction manual.
and how i had used a drywall screw to chomp the power on the 800 then figured out if i put cart in at angle and pushed it forward it would connect or disconnect and cause the wall to fail and screen to turn to chunks the sound scrambles untill you hit a void(entity) and lost points then of course the music changes and you go back to last RED marker anyway i didnt know about the Ballons untill my freind said dont you know you can JUMP an catch ballons i said I would just try to jump down then one time someone said catch the ballon i said what ballon and they said wait for the bats then jump for ballon on that screen you can jump higher then you can jump down from right side to left side to diamond chamber .I finnaly did that and got both guys then a NOTHER LEVEL OPENED UP and it had a whole nother chips worth of levels I was like wow it took 2 weeks of play just to do that I did it like last year and it took less time cause i used the save state to cheat on emulator .
but I did figure out if you short out birdie king sound it scrambles the sound but if you go out of bounds it corrects sound but gets croupt like you sometimes cant get into hole it thinks its not RED
colored then once you get the QUARTER NOISE to work it corrects that..
hmm I think its time to check pump 7's tape head opto siolator witch checks if card is all the way in.

[rmaerz]

Thx for grave digging this thread. It's interesting to see that as my first project and now I have 10 cabinets in my collection.

I'm now working on my 10th cabinet and I'm having problems with stuck keys. I don't know if it's the keyboard encoder or if I did a bad crimp. Luckily, I have a the same model keyboard encoder in the Galaga cabinet that I'm going to use in troubleshooting. If I still have the problem using that board, then I know the problem is in the wiring - most likely in one of four buttons (I've pretty much eliminated the ground wiring since it is stock cabling).

I'll post that project in a separate thread.