13 replies to this topic

[HatefulGravey]

How hard does this have to be. It would seem I could just run wired from the points on the board to the front of the case, mount the controller ports there and cut the case to fit the ports through the front. Could it really be that "simple"?

Also, how should I cut the plastic? I have never tried it before but I would think a dremel or something like it would just melt the plastic and screw things up.

Is the port the 2600 uses something I can buy in a panel mount form? I know the AES uses a port that has a standard for other things as well, so you can use panel mounts for those controllers (normally for super guns). It would be nice if I could find something like that for the 2600 as it would be easier to mount them like that then to make a mount from scratch to mount the ports solid inside the case.

[GroovyBee]

You could save yourself all the hassle and buy a 7800 which has them at the front already then you get the best of both worlds .

[HatefulGravey]

GroovyBee, on Mon Apr 25, 2011 11:24 AM, said:

You could save yourself all the hassle and buy a 7800 which has them at the front already then you get the best of both worlds .

I don't care to use the 7800 to play 2600 games. Mostly the angle at the front of the 7800 makes switching difficulty no fun for me. There would also be something to getting this mod done right. I'm going to add a pause mod and AV outs to this console as well. I thoght why not just mod the hell out of one console?

[jferio]

I know you can buy nine-pin connectors with metal collars that include a pair of screw points on the sides that you can basically panel-mount. The only issue is the collar can 'cut into' the joystick connector's outer corners in the process.

It should be fairly easy, and I'd prefer to see that mod than the truly non-standard one I saw inflicted upon a Heavy Sixer at a thrift store once. The connectors were relocated to the sides... and were something like rounded audio connectors like you'd use on a professional microphone. It had controllers with it that had been similarly adulterated. It had a schematic for which pin was for what, but it still made me wonder about the sanity of basically requiring one to mod any controller one wanted to use.

[BigO]

HatefulGravey, on Mon Apr 25, 2011 11:15 AM, said:

How hard does this have to be. It would seem I could just run wires from the points on the board to the front of the case, mount the controller ports there and cut the case to fit the ports through the front. Could it really be that "simple"?

Yes, it should be that simple.

Edited by BigO, Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:54 PM.

[HatefulGravey]

jferio, on Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:38 PM, said:

I know you can buy nine-pin connectors with metal collars that include a pair of screw points on the sides that you can basically panel-mount. The only issue is the collar can 'cut into' the joystick connector's outer corners in the process.

It should be fairly easy, and I'd prefer to see that mod than the truly non-standard one I saw inflicted upon a Heavy Sixer at a thrift store once. The connectors were relocated to the sides... and were something like rounded audio connectors like you'd use on a professional microphone. It had controllers with it that had been similarly adulterated. It had a schematic for which pin was for what, but it still made me wonder about the sanity of basically requiring one to mod any controller one wanted to use.

What I have is a light sixer I saved from the trash a while back and the case isn't in great shape, and I have a broken light sixer with good case that I saved from the trash as well. I figured I would put the too together and seeing as how I have a few original systems I would make a system for me to play with. A system easier to use on a modern TV, (well not LCD modern, but AV modern) and pause. I thought as long as I'm going to do that much the system could never been thought of as original again, so I might as well take the next step and put the ports up frount too.

It will take me some time, as I don't have much time right now, to get the system finished. I still need to order a pause and AV kit for the thing so add that to it as well. As soon as I think I have something that looks half decent I'll let you guys know. I'll work to use the real ports from a broken 2600 and mount them inside the machine.

Anyone have advice on cutting the plastic to make openings in the front of the casing?

[zylon]

HatefulGravey, on Mon Apr 25, 2011 1:46 PM, said:

jferio, on Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:38 PM, said:

I know you can buy nine-pin connectors with metal collars that include a pair of screw points on the sides that you can basically panel-mount. The only issue is the collar can 'cut into' the joystick connector's outer corners in the process.

It should be fairly easy, and I'd prefer to see that mod than the truly non-standard one I saw inflicted upon a Heavy Sixer at a thrift store once. The connectors were relocated to the sides... and were something like rounded audio connectors like you'd use on a professional microphone. It had controllers with it that had been similarly adulterated. It had a schematic for which pin was for what, but it still made me wonder about the sanity of basically requiring one to mod any controller one wanted to use.

What I have is a light sixer I saved from the trash a while back and the case isn't in great shape, and I have a broken light sixer with good case that I saved from the trash as well. I figured I would put the too together and seeing as how I have a few original systems I would make a system for me to play with. A system easier to use on a modern TV, (well not LCD modern, but AV modern) and pause. I thought as long as I'm going to do that much the system could never been thought of as original again, so I might as well take the next step and put the ports up frount too.

It will take me some time, as I don't have much time right now, to get the system finished. I still need to order a pause and AV kit for the thing so add that to it as well. As soon as I think I have something that looks half decent I'll let you guys know. I'll work to use the real ports from a broken 2600 and mount them inside the machine.

Anyone have advice on cutting the plastic to make openings in the front of the casing?

Scribe an outline and drill out as much as you can. Then use a drill saw bit or some carpentry files/rasps to do final shaping. I've been pondering attempting your idea myself for some time. I was thinking of putting the ports centered on the bottom below the wood-line, but just to either side of motherboard casting. Use 2600 console replacement ports and superglue them down on the inside. If I leave the originals in place, I could also have paddles without having to switch plugs.

[nathanallan]

zylon, FYI the superglue will break after a little while, bets to screw them down. Superglue works where you don't touch anything, but if you have to do any movement it will give up.

[RevEng]

Drilling the circles in each corner of the shape and connecting the dots with a saw is definitely the way to go. But anybody trying this should take note that 2600 plastic is fairly brittle, and to make matters worse regular drill bits tend to catch the plastic. Others have shattered their case when drilling holes for video mods.

Forstner drill bits is usually what's recommended to avoid it, though I had success just running regular bits in reverse so the plastic is shaved away instead of the usual drilling action.

[nathanallan]

You may want to think breakout box that sits under the console with the ports there instead of on the console. They can be lined to there from the back, no drilling needed.

[CPUWIZ]

How about a SVA-II or a 2800?

[potatohead]

I like to use a hot element to create a pilot hole for drilling older plastics. A thin nail, heated works well. Just poke it through, using a small knife to clean off the excess that will pile up at the entry point.

The drill to follow will center on the hole, and won't have the high cutting load it would otherwise. Might be worth two drills, depending on your pilot hole size. Be sure you center your pilot hole.

The hardware store has thin hacksaw blades that can be mounted in a handle. Have had good success with those in the past.

I like to finish off with a small file, and sometimes a metal strip with a burr on it. These holes are too small for that, but the metal with burr will peel off a thin layer, leaving a very smooth edge. Have done that for larger cutouts.

A nice, black anodized screw might work well for the tie downs on the DB-9 connectors. A sharpie can clean up scratches in the screw, if needed.

IMHO, this is a good mod plan!

Edited by potatohead, Tue Apr 26, 2011 9:28 PM.

[HatefulGravey]

I have a very small hand drill that sounds like it will work perfectly for this. I can control the speed and depth very easily. It may take more time but the job will be done right.

At this point I expect to mount the controller ports one of those boards you can get to build your one circuits on. I can then use that to attached the ports to the casing in just about anyway I need to. I'll be putting both ports together on the left of the console. Pretty much opposite the Atari logo on the right. I'm thinking I'll put the pause switch to the right of these ports as well.

Thanks for the ideas and advice so far. Hopefully I'll have time soon to do some real work on this and get something done sooner then later.

[zylon]

nathanallan, on Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:43 PM, said:

zylon, FYI the superglue will break after a little while, bets to screw them down. Superglue works where you don't touch anything, but if you have to do any movement it will give up.

Hmmm. I'd have to put the screws up through the bottom then. It's doable.
I'd also considered moving the ports to the vacant locations on a 4 switch bezel, but it would've made future service difficult unless I used long leads.