20 replies to this topic

[SlowCoder]

I needed a new "can I fix it" project. So I went on a limb and won this item:
eBay Auction -- Item Number: 230625577483
For 11:50 shipped, I won't be out a bunch if it doesn't work. Becides, I think it looks really neat, in its 70's fashion.

Anyway, if you look on the front panel you can see some of what looks like fading. I've inquired with the seller as to whether it's just an artifact of the photo. It's not a big problem, but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to diminish or remove the fade?

[nathanallan]

Nice pickup, those are some nice looking and tough consoles. I have one that has separate controllers and even though I can't get to it, it works great.

Not sure on diminishing the fade that's there, it might be some discoloration that will clean off with maybe Windex, or you can redo it with contact paper. That's easy enough to do, the logo being the hardest part (and that's not that hard). Either stick then cut or cut thens tick, they are nice flat panels.

[awhite2600]

I'd be interested to know the specs of the AC adapter when you get the console. I still have one of these that my parents bought back in the 70's. Unfortunately the adapter was lost. I recall that the adapter was 7.5 volts - but I could be wrong.

I've been wanting to hook up the console again but was afraid that I would fry it with the wrong voltage/polarity. The thought of using 6 "C" batteries makes it not worth the effort.

[SlowCoder]

There appears to be some discrepency as to where the 401 model was released. Was it ever actually released in USA?

awhite2600, on Mon May 30, 2011 9:11 AM, said:

I'd be interested to know the specs of the AC adapter when you get the console. I still have one of these that my parents bought back in the 70's. Unfortunately the adapter was lost. I recall that the adapter was 7.5 volts - but I could be wrong.

I've been wanting to hook up the console again but was afraid that I would fry it with the wrong voltage/polarity. The thought of using 6 "C" batteries makes it not worth the effort.

When I get it, I'll be happy to give you the specs. From what I've read it's supposed to be 9v, center positive.

[Lendorien]

SlowCoder, on Sun May 29, 2011 4:26 PM, said:

I needed a new "can I fix it" project. So I went on a limb and won this item:
eBay Auction -- Item Number: 230625577483
For 11:50 shipped, I won't be out a bunch if it doesn't work. Becides, I think it looks really neat, in its 70's fashion.

Anyway, if you look on the front panel you can see some of what looks like fading. I've inquired with the seller as to whether it's just an artifact of the photo. It's not a big problem, but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to diminish or remove the fade?

Hiya, In case you haven't found this before yet, I posted a thread about this thing about a year back. Now there were a bunch of model variations, so yours may be different than mine. Still, the thread includes a scan of the manual.

A little research showed that the 401 needs a +9vdc center positive adapter (coaxial plug). I'm not sure, but I'd expect yours to be the same.

http://www.atariage....fun-model-401a/

The fading may be a blemish on the finish of the panel. The finish on the unit is a glossy one and I too have blemishes on the finish of mine. I have tried various cleaning options with little success.

[AtariLeaf]

I have two of these. They're a really nice pong console.

[SlowCoder]

Lendorien, on Mon May 30, 2011 10:19 AM, said:

Hiya, In case you haven't found this before yet, I posted a thread about this thing about a year back. Now there were a bunch of model variations, so yours may be different than mine. Still, the thread includes a scan of the manual.

A little research showed that the 401 needs a +9vdc center positive adapter (coaxial plug). I'm not sure, but I'd expect yours to be the same.

http://www.atariage....fun-model-401a/

The fading may be a blemish on the finish of the panel. The finish on the unit is a glossy one and I too have blemishes on the finish of mine. I have tried various cleaning options with little success.

Yes, actually I did read that this morning while searching for more information on the console, and already downloaded and read the manual. This particular one is the 401, like yours.

As far as my inquiry about the fading, this is his reply: "I think it might be just the camera. I'm not positive though, because I'm looking at all of these items in a basement with limited/less than perfect lighting. You'll have to be the final judge when you receive the item."
As he says, we'll have to wait and see.

I'm also hoping that he just couldn't get it to work due to the way he hooked it up. Maybe the channel switch is in the wrong position. Based on his descriptions and what he's selling, doesn't sound like he's too techie. * crosses fingers *

[Algus]

I was thinking the same thing when I read the description. It could be as simple as he is plugging it in the wrong way. Old machines like that do need a bit of coaxing to work on new hardware.

Is that a stock/official PSU he's got with the thing? It is possible that the problem may be as simple as an incompatible PSU (though if its blown out the internal components...). Still, at $12, even if it can't be repaired, it should make a nice display piece.

[AtariLeaf]

They take batteries as well, either C or D, I don't remember. I don't know if they're hard to come by but in the dollar stores around here you can get packs of 2 for $1 each. I think it takes 6 so if you can get them, just try batteries to see if it works. I don't find getting batteries a hassle, its not a great permanent solution but at least you can test it this way.

The fading seems to be part of a 30 year old console I'm afraid, both of my units have the same fade look on that front panel.

Edited by AtariLeaf, Tue May 31, 2011 4:59 AM.

[AtariLeaf]

AtariLeaf, on Tue May 31, 2011 4:58 AM, said:

They take batteries as well, either C or D, I don't remember. I don't know if they're hard to come by but in the dollar stores around here you can get packs of 2 for $1 each. I think it takes 6 so if you can get them, just try batteries to see if it works. I don't find getting batteries a hassle, its not a great permanent solution but at least you can test it this way.

The fading seems to be part of a 30 year old console I'm afraid, both of my units have the same fade look on that front panel.

Why the heck did I just quote myself instead of editing. Damn, can't make posts in the morning before coffee

Edited by AtariLeaf, Tue May 31, 2011 5:00 AM.

[SlowCoder]

Well, I received the console. This thing is really cool looking. The switches have really smooth operation, and I'm quite impressed with the quality of the build.

And it works! ... almost.

The wall wart that came with it is obviously not the correct one. Its some old Panasonic 6v 200mah plug. Unit doesn't even light up using it. I put in some C's though, and the unit fires up. Will have to look into a new wart for it.

Now that I have it on, on channel 3, you can tell there's a signal, but the lines are all wavy. On channel 4, seems to display ok, but there is LOTS of ghosting. (Before you even ask, yes I checked the channel selector on the unit). I have yet to crack open this unit, so I'm hoping maybe there's a UF adjustment I can make in there somewhere.

Edited by SlowCoder, Sat Jun 4, 2011 7:41 PM.

[SlowCoder]

All cleaned up:


I plugged the unit into 2 of my CRT TVs last night, and it plays beautifully! Very crisp, clear. So apparently it's my LCD TV that has the hiccup of not syncing quite right.


My only problem left is that, though the picture is great, there is lots of static on the TVs (sound on this console is internal). I have to turn volume all the way down or mute the TV. (I tried changing out the RF cable, so that doesn't appear to be the problem.)
I played with (1) in the below picture, which did change the display some, but had no affect on the static. When I had the console connected to my LCD TV it would sometimes cause the display to be correct. But switching the channel on the TV or console, or powering the console off and on, would revert it back to original sync problem.
I would like to know if anyone knows what changing (2) would do? It appears this screw is glued so as not to turn, so I don't want to mess with it unless I know what it would do.


Also, if I wanted to composite mod this unit (alternative to static RF), anyone know how based on the pic above?

[Devin]

SlowCoder, on Sun Jun 5, 2011 1:09 PM, said:

My only problem left is that, though the picture is great, there is lots of static on the TVs (sound on this console is internal). I have to turn volume all the way down or mute the TV.

Nothing is wrong. It looks like you have yourself a nice pong console! All the pongs - every GI-chip one (like the APF) and the Atari Pongs do not transmit audio over the cable. They don't even attempt to transmit silence. Instead, you always get various hissing and crackling.

This is just the tech of the time. So, you will have to turn the audio down. Its the same with all of them.

... so, grab a beer, invite some friends over, put on some disco, and have a great time!

Edited by Devin, Sun Jun 5, 2011 1:41 PM.

[Devin]

I forgot to mention that the LCD monitor (and other modern devices) are very, very, very picky about signal strength.

Those old pong systems (and the Atari 2600) send an incredibly weak signal over the wire. It was good enough for the TVs of the time, but modern hardware doesn't react.

If you want to hook up an old system, and are having trouble with signal strength, a good alternative is to use a VCR. You can plug the RCA (using a RCA-Coaxial converter) into the input on the VCR. The composite out is great for modern TVs.

I conducted a pong tournament this semester and used a VCR to bridge my old Sears Super Pong IV to the overhead projector.

[SlowCoder]

Devin, on Sun Jun 5, 2011 1:39 PM, said:

Nothing is wrong. It looks like you have yourself a nice pong console! All the pongs - every GI-chip one (like the APF) and the Atari Pongs do not transmit audio over the cable. They don't even attempt to transmit silence. Instead, you always get various hissing and crackling.

This is just the tech of the time. So, you will have to turn the audio down. Its the same with all of them.

... so, grab a beer, invite some friends over, put on some disco, and have a great time!

Actually, that's pretty logical. For them to include any sound (including silence) they may as well just send the play audio through.

What threw me off was that my new Pong Sports IV plays perfectly on the same LCD TV, with no static. I guess the new TVs have a filter to auto-mute when there is no signal.

[Lendorien]

I will concure with those who say it's the LCD that's the issue. Some LCDs are have pretty crappy analog translators (whatever they're called), and don't do a good job of changing analog signals into digital. My TV does just fine with analog. My roommate's looks awful and the 401 is all flippy on it. Seems to be par for the course.

[SlowCoder]

Lendorien, on Tue Jun 7, 2011 10:40 AM, said:

I will concure with those who say it's the LCD that's the issue. Some LCDs are have pretty crappy analog translators (whatever they're called), and don't do a good job of changing analog signals into digital. My TV does just fine with analog. My roommate's looks awful and the 401 is all flippy on it. Seems to be par for the course.

I definitely don't disagree. With all the systems I have, this is the only one that has not worked on RF.

[YAGRS]

I have two different APFs, and neither of them displays well on my LCD TV.

[nathanallan]

Well, you could try using a better shielded cable, but that means modding. Just a thought. It will make more signal get through.

[ilovethevectrex]

nice! my parents just gave me an "n20 philips videojeu" console (french/swedish) im almost ready to hook it up, i just need to buy this special adapter that transfers rca to coax cable rf, but i need to wait till tomorrow but anyways, nice console. im not exactly shure how to clean it, but i think you can use some window spraying stuff and spray it on a cloth and wipe it on the console. thats what i did to clean my nes

[SlowCoder]

Window cleaner would probably work ok. I just prefer, when possible, to use soap and water on a rag.

I just looked up the n20 philips videojeu. Looks like an interesting design. I kind of wonder how well the controllers work.