35 replies to this topic

[Rodrigo]

Hi everybody! I'm posting here because I bought my first 5200, some days ago (before I was a 2600 only guy). I really liked it and, after rebuilindig the inoperative joysticks (rev9 mylar and aluminun dots), I can say it's a really nice system. It came with 6 games: Tennis, Pac Man, Vanguard, Missile Command, Centipede an Defender. I noticed that it's really touchy about RF noise, because I have problems with wavy lines dependind on how I set the system (the position of the power adapter, rf cable, console). The only thing that's making me annoyed its an RF interference wich follows the games sounds. When the games (like Vanguard) are in attract mode (no sound), there's no interference; when playing, with sound, yes. The most plagued game is Missile Command, on color backgrounds. Do you have any idea what is causing it? Thanks.

Rodrigo

[Official Ninja]

Rodrigo, on Mon May 30, 2011 8:10 AM, said:

Hi everybody! I'm posting here because I bought my first 5200, some days ago (before I was a 2600 only guy). I really liked it and, after rebuilindig the inoperative joysticks (rev9 mylar and aluminun dots), I can say it's a really nice system. It came with 6 games: Tennis, Pac Man, Vanguard, Missile Command, Centipede an Defender. I noticed that it's really touchy about RF noise, because I have problems with wavy lines dependind on how I set the system (the position of the power adapter, rf cable, console). The only thing that's making me annoyed its an RF interference wich follows the games sounds. When the games (like Vanguard) are in attract mode (no sound), there's no interference; when playing, with sound, yes. The most plagued game is Missile Command, on color backgrounds. Do you have any idea what is causing it? Thanks.

Rodrigo

If you have a 2 port you can try to replace the RF cable. The cable is in a female jack on the mobo.
A 4 port you probably need a new or rebuilt switch box.

Enjoy your 5200

[Rodrigo]

Official Ninja, on Mon May 30, 2011 8:41 AM, said:

Rodrigo, on Mon May 30, 2011 8:10 AM, said:

Hi everybody! I'm posting here because I bought my first 5200, some days ago (before I was a 2600 only guy). I really liked it and, after rebuilindig the inoperative joysticks (rev9 mylar and aluminun dots), I can say it's a really nice system. It came with 6 games: Tennis, Pac Man, Vanguard, Missile Command, Centipede an Defender. I noticed that it's really touchy about RF noise, because I have problems with wavy lines dependind on how I set the system (the position of the power adapter, rf cable, console). The only thing that's making me annoyed its an RF interference wich follows the games sounds. When the games (like Vanguard) are in attract mode (no sound), there's no interference; when playing, with sound, yes. The most plagued game is Missile Command, on color backgrounds. Do you have any idea what is causing it? Thanks.

Rodrigo

If you have a 2 port you can try to replace the RF cable. The cable is in a female jack on the mobo.
A 4 port you probably need a new or rebuilt switch box.

Enjoy your 5200

Thanks for your reply, Official Ninja. I'll try to replace the cable and then let you know the result. I was just wondering, is this kind of interference (from the games sound) usual?

Rodrigo

[zylon]

The sound problem could be a result of interference, bad tuning, also the sound caps may be leaking.

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Mon May 30, 2011 10:10 AM, said:

The sound problem could be a result of interference, bad tuning, also the sound caps may be leaking.

I'll try the Rf cable first. But, if this doesn't fix it, I'll need further advice on the other issues (interference and bad tuning), and how to find those caps. Thank you.

[zylon]

Rodrigo, on Mon May 30, 2011 11:16 AM, said:

zylon, on Mon May 30, 2011 10:10 AM, said:

The sound problem could be a result of interference, bad tuning, also the sound caps may be leaking.

I'll try the Rf cable first. But, if this doesn't fix it, I'll need further advice on the other issues (interference and bad tuning), and how to find those caps. Thank you.

Also try cleaning out the channel 2-3 switch. I've seen that cause lots of interference-type issues.

[Rodrigo]

Well, last night I've tried some fixes. Tried to replace the RF cable, with 3 spare ones that I have, but it didn't solve the problem. After I read other posts on the forums about similar problems, I managed to deal with that purple coil. After twisting the core a litle, it was possible to reduce some wavy lines it had to a satisfatory level. But, even then, the sound interference is still going. It occurs even with the music in games (it follows the rhythm). What should I do next?

[Rodrigo]

Oh, and I forgot to say, I changed the channel switch to channel 2 and the picture was better (though the sound interference is still there... ).

[zylon]

With the system opened up and running, press straight down on these 2 little silver/plastic capacitors. They are in the lower left of this pic. Those little guys are a common failure point on 2600's and 5200's.
Pressing down on them sometimes gets them working again, but doesn't last forever.

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Tue May 31, 2011 5:44 PM, said:

With the system opened up and running, press straight down on these 2 little silver/plastic capacitors. They are in the lower left of this pic. Those little guys are a common failure point on 2600's and 5200's.
Pressing down on them sometimes gets them working again, but doesn't last forever.

You mean to just press them down (using my fingers)? And if that doesn't fix it, is it possible to replace them (are new ones available)? Thank you.

Rodrigo

[zylon]

Rodrigo, on Wed Jun 1, 2011 7:25 AM, said:

zylon, on Tue May 31, 2011 5:44 PM, said:

With the system opened up and running, press straight down on these 2 little silver/plastic capacitors. They are in the lower left of this pic. Those little guys are a common failure point on 2600's and 5200's.
Pressing down on them sometimes gets them working again, but doesn't last forever.

You mean to just press them down (using my fingers)? And if that doesn't fix it, is it possible to replace them (are new ones available)? Thank you.

Rodrigo

Yep. Just put your thumb on the bodies of them and push straight down towards board. Spares are available at Best Electronics and I have some. There's 2 different ones used, but that's not important right now.

[Rodrigo]

Well, I have bad news. First, I tried to press the caps with the system on, as sugested. It didn't solve the problem. In fact, it seems that someone already tried that, because de caps bodies were a little dented. But then I reassembled the RF shield, put the board in the case, closed the lid and, well, I just wanted to play a little. An then... nothing! It didn't turn on. No red light, no image, no nothing. I tought that it could be the power adapter that died, then I measured the voltage with a multimeter. It indicated 14.9-15.00 volts without load. Then, I opened the console again and tried to follow the energy through the board. I found that, even trying the female jack pins, the reading was only 0.88 volts! This voltage appeared again in other components around it too. The big transistors with the coolers are reading 0 volt. I can't understand what happenned. The system was working when disassembled and when tried, but then I assembled it again and kaputz! Any ideas, please?

Rodrigo

[zylon]

Those are the voltage regulators and should read about 5volts when powered up on third leg to right facing the writing on them. I'd check your power switch first. Might have knocked it a little out of alignment internally while deck was open. Of note: that's a momentary switch so continuity will only read while held pressed. Also check the power socket on the board itself. Dirt and corrosion like to form on the barrel contacting part.

In addition to the 2 little caps, the pokey chip can cause sound issues. It's location is shown here below. They are available new from Best and I should have a used one here somewhere.

Attached Thumbnails

• 

Edited by zylon, Thu Jun 2, 2011 5:27 PM.

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Thu Jun 2, 2011 5:20 PM, said:

Those are the voltage regulators and should read about 5volts when powered up on third leg to right facing the writing on them. I'd check your power switch first. Might have knocked it a little out of alignment internally while deck was open. Of note: that's a momentary switch so continuity will only read while held pressed. Also check the power socket on the board itself. Dirt and corrosion like to form on the barrel contacting part.

In addition to the 2 little caps, the pokey chip can cause sound issues. It's location is shown here below. They are available new from Best and I should have a used one here somewhere.

Thanks for your advice. How do I test the power switch? Should I remove it from the board? I don't think that is the power socket, because I was able to follow the adapter voltage till that diode is in front of the voltage regulator 2. Regarding to the pokey, it doesn't sit on a socket, right? I just downloaded the Atari 5200 Field Service Manual to know better about the components on the board.

Rodrigo

[zylon]

It's a little tricky, but you can just test the switch on the board. You should be able to check for continuity between the pins of the power switch while holding it pressed. Another very cheap(less than $1) item that can cause a non-power condition is the voltage regulators themselves. On 2600's there's a couple of cheat tests you can do on those. You can piggyback a good regulator by holding it in position, then try to turn on. I'll show a 2600 pic just as an example. I've never tried this on 5200 but that test will not cause any further damage. My second method of jumpstarting it I know will not work on 5200 4 port. Yours is a 2port so you can try it. Put game in console and plug power cord into wall socket, but not into the system. Hold the power switch in and insert the power plug into the system while still holding the button down.
The pokey chip is socketed so it's easy to change.

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Fri Jun 3, 2011 10:23 AM, said:

It's a little tricky, but you can just test the switch on the board. You should be able to check for continuity between the pins of the power switch while holding it pressed. Another very cheap(less than $1) item that can cause a non-power condition is the voltage regulators themselves. On 2600's there's a couple of cheat tests you can do on those. You can piggyback a good regulator by holding it in position, then try to turn on. I'll show a 2600 pic just as an example. I've never tried this on 5200 but that test will not cause any further damage. My second method of jumpstarting it I know will not work on 5200 4 port. Yours is a 2port so you can try it. Put game in console and plug power cord into wall socket, but not into the system. Hold the power switch in and insert the power plug into the system while still holding the button down.
The pokey chip is socketed so it's easy to change.

Hi again. Yesterday I tried your suggestions and still no luck. First, I was able to test the power switch, and found that it's working fine (continuity OK when pressed). I also tried the voltage regulator idea, but nothing happenned. The reading in the vr2 is still 0 volt. Is it normal a 14.5-15 volt reading in the power adapter? I'm running out of ideas here, and even considered to follow the charts in the 5200 service manual (replacing components). Do you have any other suggestion?

Rodrigo.

[zylon]

That's a normal adaptor reading when not under load.
I'd try system again with shielding removed to eliminate possibilty of it causing a short since it was working till you moved it. If that doesn't work, then replacing caps, regulators is the next path.

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Sun Jun 5, 2011 5:43 PM, said:

That's a normal adaptor reading when not under load.
I'd try system again with shielding removed to eliminate possibilty of it causing a short since it was working till you moved it. If that doesn't work, then replacing caps, regulators is the next path.

Well, no luck again. I think I'll have to begin to replace components. Believe the voltage regulators should go first. About the caps, should I replace only the electrolitic and the big green ones? What do you think about some of the transistors (like q8-q10) being the cause?

Rodrigo

[zylon]

Rodrigo, on Tue Jun 7, 2011 7:06 AM, said:

zylon, on Sun Jun 5, 2011 5:43 PM, said:

That's a normal adaptor reading when not under load.
I'd try system again with shielding removed to eliminate possibilty of it causing a short since it was working till you moved it. If that doesn't work, then replacing caps, regulators is the next path.

Well, no luck again. I think I'll have to begin to replace components. Believe the voltage regulators should go first. About the caps, should I replace only the electrolitic and the big green ones? What do you think about some of the transistors (like q8-q10) being the cause?

Rodrigo

That, I can't say and remote diagnostics aren't perfect. I'd start with the large green chicklet cap near the regulators.

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Tue Jun 7, 2011 11:56 AM, said:

Rodrigo, on Tue Jun 7, 2011 7:06 AM, said:

zylon, on Sun Jun 5, 2011 5:43 PM, said:

That's a normal adaptor reading when not under load.
I'd try system again with shielding removed to eliminate possibilty of it causing a short since it was working till you moved it. If that doesn't work, then replacing caps, regulators is the next path.

Well, no luck again. I think I'll have to begin to replace components. Believe the voltage regulators should go first. About the caps, should I replace only the electrolitic and the big green ones? What do you think about some of the transistors (like q8-q10) being the cause?

Rodrigo

That, I can't say and remote diagnostics aren't perfect. I'd start with the large green chicklet cap near the regulators.

I just ordered parts to begin replacement. I'll inform my progress here. Hope to have luck soon. Zylon, thanks for your advice.

Rodrigo

[zylon]

Good luck and let me know what you find. I've never had your exact problem so far and the results would be good to know.

[zylon]

http://www.delfmeek.com/?p=42

This link goes to 2 port system that wouldn't power up. He vaguely describes the parts replaced, but doesn't show them exactly.

[Rodrigo]

zylon, on Thu Jun 9, 2011 2:31 PM, said:

http://www.delfmeek.com/?p=42

This link goes to 2 port system that wouldn't power up. He vaguely describes the parts replaced, but doesn't show them exactly.

Hi again. This weekend I started to replace things in the board. Replaced both 7805, the big caps, a resistor and even some transistors. And nothing. The 5200 repair guide suggests that maybe that IC mentioned in the link you provided is bad. I also contacted Best Electronics for advice (they helped me in the past regarding a 2600), and they suggested that the power supply could be bad. They said to check diodes, because the power supply could show the correct voltage, but with too low amps for the system board works.

Rodrigo

[eightbitter]

Hi Rodrigo
I think that you solve this problem yet.
If not - you can check your power adapter using 12V/21W car bulb (i.e. stop or direction light), it should lightup. Then you can measure output voltage under load and proper polarity. This voltage should be min. 9V (DC).
Next check cleaning of cartridge socket and cart edge connector. Remember that 5200 startup only when cartridge is proper inserted, but red LED should lights without cart.

Edited by eightbitter, Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:44 PM.

[Rodrigo]

eightbitter, on Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:13 PM, said:

Hi Rodrigo
I think that you solve this problem yet.
If not - you can check your power adapter using 12V/21W car bulb (i.e. stop or direction light), it should lightup. Then you can measure output voltage under load and proper polarity. This voltage should be min. 9V (DC).
Next check cleaning of cartridge socket and cart edge connector. Remember that 5200 startup only when cartridge is proper inserted, but red LED should lights without cart.

Thanks for your answer, eightbitter. Brad, at Best Electronics, suggested me to perform some tests, including a power supply diode check, and others in the motherboard (man, he has a lot of patience), and the results point to a dead short . So I decided to replace the motherboard and the power supply. Anyway, thanks for your help and for everybody who aswered this tread (especially Zylon).

Rodrigo.