16 replies to this topic

[bennybingo]

I recently had my Tempest machine serviced and everything was working perfectly. I started her up this weekend and, much to my dismay, it was all screwed up.

When it warms up, the attract screen is on, but it is all sorts of wrong. Sometimes it is upside down...other times it is showing gameplay that is missing the play field (tubes). I tried to press the 1 and 2 player start buttons and nothing happens. I am not sure what to make of this and was wondering if anyone has any insight. Any help would be appreciated!

[bennybingo]

...anyone???

[RevEng]

Is the problem only after warm-up?

It sounds a bit like this issue.

Issues after warming up usually imply that thermal expansion is at play. Bad connectors, cold joints, etc.

[bennybingo]

RevEng, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:11 PM, said:

Is the problem only after warm-up?

It sounds a bit like this issue.

Issues after warming up usually imply that thermal expansion is at play. Bad connectors, cold joints, etc.

I apologize for my poor explanation. What I meant by warm up was after the monitor fully becomes visible (which takes a minute or so to warm up). So, in fact, it is immediate.

[RevEng]

Not really sure... maybe a power problem?

Check out Troubleshooting your Tempest Machine, and run through the self-test mode.

I'd also check the edge-connector and verify the voltages at the power supply.

[bennybingo]

RevEng, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:30 PM, said:

Not really sure... maybe a power problem?

Check out Troubleshooting your Tempest Machine, and run through the self-test mode.

I'd also check the edge-connector and verify the voltages at the power supply.

I will have to try that tonight. Thanks!

[Cebus Capucinis]

If it's instant, my best guess would be a board level problem. Self-test will be your best bet, and I'm guessing it's going to test with a ROM error. I'd crack her open and make sure all chips are seated properly, then if that doesn't work pull the board and look for any unusual solder points on the back. If it was recently serviced, it may have a cold solder point on one of the pins of a chip, and will just need a touch for a reflow.

[bennybingo]

Cebus Capucinis, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 10:47 PM, said:

If it's instant, my best guess would be a board level problem. Self-test will be your best bet, and I'm guessing it's going to test with a ROM error. I'd crack her open and make sure all chips are seated properly, then if that doesn't work pull the board and look for any unusual solder points on the back. If it was recently serviced, it may have a cold solder point on one of the pins of a chip, and will just need a touch for a reflow.

This is where I usually call the repairman... Part of it is that i'm all thumbs with a solder gun and electronics while the other is just fear of damaging a 30+ year old board that will be $$$ to replace.

[Cebus Capucinis]

I hear ya there! I'm scared spitless to do anything to my Space Invaders cab that's got a monitor blinking out issue for exactly those reasons, especially given the fun family history story behind the cabinet I found out about after purchase. It still has the original problem because I'm so scared to death of trying to service it in case any of the original parts break.

Fortunately from what I've gathered from my Centipede cocktail I just bought, Atari's earlier games were very well engineered and the PCBs and components seem to be much more durable than other companies. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, I wouldn't advise attempting it, and I give my disclaimer of broken stuff, etc. but pulling a board and inspecting it is actually really easy and it's pretty hard to muck that up and break anything. Boards and power supplies I can do, and hopefully with this Centipede monitor I'll be able to get more comfortable with monitors, but monitors scare me to death.

Self test should be really easy to switch to, though, so I'd say try that definitely. Almost all Atari early cabs had the self-test switch right near the coin door, and it should be nothing more complicated than popping open the door, flipping the self-test switch in that vicinity, then pushing the interlock switch so the game powers on. An upright should have it far enough away from everything else it shouldn't be a problem. What will happen is the cab will play a tone (sort of like a PC POST beep error code) and should display something stating which ROM or chip is not functioning. That narrows it down significantly and easily tells a tech which pins on the board need to be looked at, or worst case scenario which IC needs replaced.

[Cebus Capucinis]

Yep! Self-test is in the coin door.

Tempest Manual Scan There's a PDF of the Tempest manual. Part D deals with self-test. All you have to do is pop open the coin door and you'll see it. The US switch is inside the coin door, European is inside the cabinet itself. Near the upper right corner of the coin door (close to the hinge) should be a simple toggle switch. Pulling that switch up will activate self-test mode and the machine should display a screen with options, etc. if the test passes. If it doesn't, it will play a tone/beep sequence to tell you which chip is having the issues. The manual has the decoding for the tones and beeps to let you know which is which. Very simple and easy!

Don't flip the switch with the game on, though, I forgot to mention that. It likely won't damage anything but better safe than sorry. Power down the machine, flip the switch to the ON position, then power the machine up, and you'll either hear some beeps or the display screen will show. If the screen is shown you can do a couple things to try to narrow it down more, but it is a lot more difficult to trace exactly what's going on with a complex gameplay problem.

[bennybingo]

Cebus Capucinis, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 10:58 PM, said:

I hear ya there! I'm scared spitless to do anything to my Space Invaders cab that's got a monitor blinking out issue for exactly those reasons, especially given the fun family history story behind the cabinet I found out about after purchase. It still has the original problem because I'm so scared to death of trying to service it in case any of the original parts break.

Fortunately from what I've gathered from my Centipede cocktail I just bought, Atari's earlier games were very well engineered and the PCBs and components seem to be much more durable than other companies. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, I wouldn't advise attempting it, and I give my disclaimer of broken stuff, etc. but pulling a board and inspecting it is actually really easy and it's pretty hard to muck that up and break anything. Boards and power supplies I can do, and hopefully with this Centipede monitor I'll be able to get more comfortable with monitors, but monitors scare me to death.

Self test should be really easy to switch to, though, so I'd say try that definitely. Almost all Atari early cabs had the self-test switch right near the coin door, and it should be nothing more complicated than popping open the door, holding the power trigger switch there (if there is one, most games did have one for coin collection servicing) so the game stays on, then flipping the self-test switch in that vicinity. An upright should have it far enough away from everything else it shouldn't be a problem. What will happen is the cab will play a tone (sort of like a PC POST beep error code) and should display something stating which ROM or chip is not functioning. That narrows it down significantly and easily tells a tech which pins on the board need to be looked at, or worst case scenario which IC needs replaced.

Thanks Cebus! I will try that one in a little bit. As soon as I run the self test, I will post what it is telling me....maybe I'll try fixing it. Worst case, the repair man usually costs me $100 (at least that's what it cost me when he fixed my monitor last). We shall see.

Thanks again!!!

[Cebus Capucinis]

I wish I had a repair guy around here! I should put a CL ad out for someone, maybe. Need to get this SI fixed and would be more than willing to fork over $100 for someone professional to do it.

[bennybingo]

Cebus Capucinis, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:10 PM, said:

I wish I had a repair guy around here! I should put a CL ad out for someone, maybe. Need to get this SI fixed and would be more than willing to fork over $100 for someone professional to do it.

This guy used to work full time at my favorite arcade. Since it closed several years back, he said he has never been busier and is doing quite well. He has a great reputation and he is really affordable.

You should ask on the arcade-museum.com forum and see if any repair people are in your area. You can also look for local arcade re-sellers...that's how I found my guy.

I'm gonna try the self-test now....fingers crossed nothing explodes!

[Cebus Capucinis]

bennybingo, on Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:09 AM, said:

Cebus Capucinis, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:10 PM, said:

I wish I had a repair guy around here! I should put a CL ad out for someone, maybe. Need to get this SI fixed and would be more than willing to fork over $100 for someone professional to do it.

This guy used to work full time at my favorite arcade. Since it closed several years back, he said he has never been busier and is doing quite well. He has a great reputation and he is really affordable.

You should ask on the arcade-museum.com forum and see if any repair people are in your area. You can also look for local arcade re-sellers...that's how I found my guy.

I'm gonna try the self-test now....fingers crossed nothing explodes!

If something explodes just from flipping a self-test switch on a cabinet, your Tempest has more serious problems than a ROM/RAM issue.

[bennybingo]

Cebus Capucinis, on Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:12 AM, said:

bennybingo, on Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:09 AM, said:

Cebus Capucinis, on Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:10 PM, said:

I wish I had a repair guy around here! I should put a CL ad out for someone, maybe. Need to get this SI fixed and would be more than willing to fork over $100 for someone professional to do it.

This guy used to work full time at my favorite arcade. Since it closed several years back, he said he has never been busier and is doing quite well. He has a great reputation and he is really affordable.

You should ask on the arcade-museum.com forum and see if any repair people are in your area. You can also look for local arcade re-sellers...that's how I found my guy.

I'm gonna try the self-test now....fingers crossed nothing explodes!

If something explodes just from flipping a self-test switch on a cabinet, your Tempest has more serious problems than a ROM/RAM issue.

no good...the test pattern (box with 1's and 0's) is upside down and won't interact with the spinner knob (as described in the instruction manual). There are a whole bunch of items to check in the cabinet and on the board, according to the instruction manual. I will give it a try tomorrow, but in the end, I think I'll just call the repair man.

[Cassidy Nolen]

Check your +5 volt line and -5V AT the taps on the PCB. Check your edge connector, would recommend a good pencil eraser wipe down and reseat. I would suggest the same on all socketed chips, specifically the chips dealing with control inputs. Check your schematics for where they are in the circuit.

Not a terribly complex game, given some of its contemporaries. If the monitor is firing up, that is a big plus. For what its worth, I have had a number of Atari-brand machines have issues because of the big filter capacitors in the bottom of the machines. When I started fixing arcades in the mid 90's these were still within specs of servicability. Going on 30 years now, not so much...


Cassidy

[bennybingo]

Cassidy Nolen, on Tue Jul 5, 2011 7:16 PM, said:

Check your +5 volt line and -5V AT the taps on the PCB. Check your edge connector, would recommend a good pencil eraser wipe down and reseat. I would suggest the same on all socketed chips, specifically the chips dealing with control inputs. Check your schematics for where they are in the circuit.

Not a terribly complex game, given some of its contemporaries. If the monitor is firing up, that is a big plus. For what its worth, I have had a number of Atari-brand machines have issues because of the big filter capacitors in the bottom of the machines. When I started fixing arcades in the mid 90's these were still within specs of servicability. Going on 30 years now, not so much...


Cassidy

I'm not too familiar with working on these PCB's, so this might get interesting. I dug up a schematic layout online, so I will try this on the weekend.


Thanks!

Ben