44 replies to this topic

[boxpressed]

Official Ninja, on Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:13 PM, said:

boxpressed, on Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:03 PM, said:

For the knowledgeable: Would a brand new 5200 controller go bad over time? Every so often, you see new-ish looking 5200 controllers on eBay with the protective film still covering the metal plate. Let's say that it was kept in a dry, climate-controlled environment so that corrosion isn't a problem.

Yes, they do go bad.

Basically the 5200 buttons are very much like the buttons in a TV remote control. Carbon dots that touch traces when pressed. I guess over time the traces oxidize and the carbon doesn't provide enough conductivity to short the traces.

I picked up a couple of untested 5200 controllers for cheap off eBay. I was able to get one fully functional with a pencil eraser on the flex. The other one is what's got me scratching my head. It looks new, newer than the other one. The flex looks mint. But the bottom left fire button won't register, even when I touch it with the tip of a screwdriver. Every other button works. Assuming that the controller is new, would the flex go bad? I know now that the carbon points do.

[Official Ninja]

boxpressed, on Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:51 PM, said:

Official Ninja, on Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:13 PM, said:

boxpressed, on Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:03 PM, said:

For the knowledgeable: Would a brand new 5200 controller go bad over time? Every so often, you see new-ish looking 5200 controllers on eBay with the protective film still covering the metal plate. Let's say that it was kept in a dry, climate-controlled environment so that corrosion isn't a problem.

Yes, they do go bad.

Basically the 5200 buttons are very much like the buttons in a TV remote control. Carbon dots that touch traces when pressed. I guess over time the traces oxidize and the carbon doesn't provide enough conductivity to short the traces.

I picked up a couple of untested 5200 controllers for cheap off eBay. I was able to get one fully functional with a pencil eraser on the flex. The other one is what's got me scratching my head. It looks new, newer than the other one. The flex looks mint. But the bottom left fire button won't register, even when I touch it with the tip of a screwdriver. Every other button works. Assuming that the controller is new, would the flex go bad? I know now that the carbon points do.

I have seen many a flex circuit not work even though the traces all look to be fine. They break where the flex bends to go in the slot for the START PAUSE RESET buttons. I forget what revision, but it is common for the left bottom button to not work because the trace for that button runs up and around the START PASUE RESET part of the circuit. You can use a meter and check of continuity all along the trace to find out where it is broke. However, it sounds like you need to order a new flex for that stick. Not a big deal. They sell on ebay for less than $10 shipped last I checked.

[guy767]

Jr. Pac, on Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:02 PM, said:

I always use Windex on e cuetip after the eraser.

I just wanted to thank you for the excellent video Jr. Pac; I was able to salvage a 5200 controller thanks to your excellent advice.

I recently bought a 5200 system at Ebay for $25 listed as "parts or not working" and it came with 2 controllers that were not functioning. One of them had the circuit board for the Start Pause Reset missing and the other had a torn rubber base for the joystick. I was able to create a Frankenstein joystick between the two controllers and I now have a great condition and fully functioning one. Sweet!

I did have some difficulty prying the bezel for the Start Pause Reset though. I originally thought that I ripped the paper thin circuit board off but the board is missing and no where to be found ergo it must have been that way before I pried that stubborn bezel off.

Well, thanks again for excellent video; it's appreciated. I'm amazed that such a simple fix works with these infamous controllers. I suspect the problems that the Angry Video Game Nerd had with his 5200 was all based on dirty Start Pause Reset buttons. All that he needed to do was pop the bezel off and clean the contacts; you don’t even need to take the controller apart. That’s an awesome trick I won’t forget anytime soon

[MIKE5200]

guy767, on Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:52 PM, said:

Jr. Pac, on Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:02 PM, said:

I always use Windex on e cuetip after the eraser.

I just wanted to thank you for the excellent video Jr. Pac; I was able to salvage a 5200 controller thanks to your excellent advice.

I recently bought a 5200 system at Ebay for $25 listed as "parts or not working" and it came with 2 controllers that were not functioning. One of them had the circuit board for the Start Pause Reset missing and the other had a torn rubber base for the joystick. I was able to create a Frankenstein joystick between the two controllers and I now have a great condition and fully functioning one. Sweet!

I did have some difficulty prying the bezel for the Start Pause Reset though. I originally thought that I ripped the paper thin circuit board off but the board is missing and no where to be found ergo it must have been that way before I pried that stubborn bezel off.

Well, thanks again for excellent video; it's appreciated. I'm amazed that such a simple fix works with these infamous controllers. I suspect the problems that the Angry Video Game Nerd had with his 5200 was all based on dirty Start Pause Reset buttons. All that he needed to do was pop the bezel off and clean the contacts; you don’t even need to take the controller apart. That’s an awesome trick I won’t forget anytime soon

unless you have the gold reflex. I sure you have to take the controller apart and clean the fire buttons. Just play afew rounds of HSC.

[guy767]

I just needed to pop the bezel off for the Start Pause Reset buttons, cleaned the contacts and I was good to go. I used Deoxit applied via cotton swabs after scrubbing them with 91% alcohol though and not the eraser method that Jr. Pac mentioned.

I did take the controller apart after testing it and cleaned every button contact point because the tear in the rubber base for the joystick bothered me. I replaced it with the joystick that had the torn Start Pause Reset circuit board. I think someone tried to open the joystick before, forgot to remove the bezel first and accidentally ripped the circuit board off.

Edited by guy767, Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:11 PM.

[1FF8]

Official Ninja, on Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:56 PM, said:

Don't get me wrong though, the Best repair parts, I hear, are fantastic.

I just put a new flex circuit and gold buttons in a controller for the 5200 I bought new back in--well, it had to be between '82 and '84 I suppose. The buttons work great now, I'm going to do the other one this evening. Assuming they last better, it seemed worth doing.

I still want a digital stick for Joust, though, one that doesn't force me to mash buttons with the wrist rotated around.

F8

[NickelPlate]

Don't forget the tinfoil trick dot trick. It's more work but it lasts longer and is nearly free. The ultimate way to go is replacing all the buttons with gold dot replacements from Best but that's a bit pricey.

Good luck!

[AtariBrian]

gotta atleast get 1 gold kit... is awesome ! then the rest of your controllers... tinfoil dot trick, works almost as great to

Edited by AtariBrian, Mon Feb 6, 2012 9:12 PM.

[atari2atari]

Gotta say, Bradley's "Gold Dot" upgrade is WELL worth the money. (http://www.best-elec...ca.com/5200.htm)

It's amazing how well it works, with no mushiness or issues - - although, it still doesn't self-center, oh well!

Combine those controllers with an ATARIMAX SD cartridge, and you will be where I have been for several days - - playing a lot of 5200! The XL conversion games are fantastic. JUMPMAN JR forever! (. . . and GATEWAY TO APSHAI is an old friend I was happy to find again!).

One note with the new controllers from Best Electronics, you often have to adjust the potentiometer inside the 5200 in order to get the "center" and sensitivity right on the unit. I just did it over the weekend for someone who bought the Gold Dot units at my recommendation and then was confused as to why the controllers didn't seem to work!

-a2a

[NickelPlate]

atari2atari, on Tue Feb 7, 2012 5:00 PM, said:

Gotta say, Bradley's "Gold Dot" upgrade is WELL worth the money. (http://www.best-elec...ca.com/5200.htm)

The XL conversion games are fantastic. JUMPMAN JR forever! (. . . and GATEWAY TO APSHAI is an old friend I was happy to find again!).


-a2a

Seriously you can play Jumpman JR on a 5200? Can you post the link to the XL conversions?

Thanks,

NP

Edited by NickelPlate, Wed Feb 8, 2012 3:29 PM.

[atari2atari]

NickelPlate, on Wed Feb 8, 2012 3:29 PM, said:

atari2atari, on Tue Feb 7, 2012 5:00 PM, said:

Gotta say, Bradley's "Gold Dot" upgrade is WELL worth the money. (http://www.best-elec...ca.com/5200.htm)

The XL conversion games are fantastic. JUMPMAN JR forever! (. . . and GATEWAY TO APSHAI is an old friend I was happy to find again!).


-a2a

Seriously you can play Jumpman JR on a 5200? Can you post the link to the XL conversions?

Thanks,

NP

I think you will find this link to have what you need . . .

http://www.atariage....ost__p__2250138

-a2a

[NickelPlate]

Thanks A2A you're awesome. Now if some could just convert "Realm of Impossibility" to a 5200 that would be fantastic. That was one of the coolest games I remember playing on my friends 800XL back in the day.

[thegamezmaster]

Atari Joe, on Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:18 PM, said:

The 5200 Joystick is partially responsible for the video game crash of 1983.

You sir are correct! Hi Joe!

[Retro Rogue]

thegamezmaster, on Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:59 AM, said:

Atari Joe, on Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:18 PM, said:

The 5200 Joystick is partially responsible for the video game crash of 1983.

You sir are correct! Hi Joe!

That's a joke, right?

[thegamezmaster]

Sorry if it's a bad one, my bad. No offence meant to anyone. A 80's crash survivor.

[Cafeman]

That might be true in the Ultimate universe, but not the canonical one.
[/Marvel]

[high voltage]

Crash of 84, some people seem to have shifted it one year previous

Edited by high voltage, Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:29 AM.

[Retro Rogue]

high voltage, on Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:29 AM, said:

Crash of 84, some people seem to have shifted it one year previous

That's because it's not one year. The crash was from '82-'84.

[thegamezmaster]

Retro Rogue, on Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:25 AM, said:

high voltage, on Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:29 AM, said:

Crash of 84, some people seem to have shifted it one year previous

That's because it's not one year. The crash was from '82-'84.

Ah, what a fun time. Not!

[Lendorien]

Yeah, definitely replace the flex circuits. I did the foil thing on my controllers. I replaced one with a rev 9 cirucuit and left the other alone with just foil. The one with the new circuit works far more reliably than the other.