41 replies to this topic

[dino999]

I just bought an Atari 5200 system (2 port) Model No 5200, my childhood system :'( ,at a yard sale and am having trouble using it. I am not sure if it works. I am using the power supply it came with (CO 18187) and the Game Switch (HE8246) that came with my Atari 2600. After inserting a game and pressing the power button, a red LED on the console lights up and the screen on the TV turns black. I do not hear any sound. If I turn on the console without a game inserted, the screen on the TV shows a black screen. Could you help diagnose the problem?

[zylon]

dino999, on Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:10 PM, said:

I just bought an Atari 5200 system (2 port) Model No 5200, my childhood system :'( ,at a yard sale and am having trouble using it. I am not sure if it works. I am using the power supply it came with (CO 18187) and the Game Switch (HE8246) that came with my Atari 2600. After inserting a game and pressing the power button, a red LED on the console lights up and the screen on the TV turns black. I do not hear any sound. If I turn on the console without a game inserted, the screen on the TV shows a black screen. Could you help diagnose the problem?

Either bad/dirty game or IC chip. My first guess would be GTIA if it's a chip.

[dino999]

I tried both games I purchased with the system and both have the same result. How do I go about testing GTIA?

[zylon]

dino999, on Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:46 PM, said:

I tried both games I purchased with the system and both have the same result. How do I go about testing GTIA?

Easiest way is to swap it with a good one. I use a junk system for testing/swapping chips.
Best Electronics sells them new as well for $5-$8.

[dino999]

zylon, on Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:26 PM, said:

dino999, on Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:46 PM, said:

I tried both games I purchased with the system and both have the same result. How do I go about testing GTIA?

Easiest way is to swap it with a good one. I use a junk system for testing/swapping chips.
Best Electronics sells them new as well for $5-$8.

Unfortunately this is the first 5200 I have seen in over 20 years. I checked the Best Electronics site but could not find the GTIA chip on their site. I will have to e-mail them about availability.

Where do you normally find your test / spare parts systems? Auction sites can be expensive especially if you don't know if the system works.

Either way. I never tried soldering. I have to find someone with steady hands

[zylon]

Soldering not required.
I usually buy dead or "untested" systems when I can get them cheap enough, especially incomplete 4port systems.

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[dino999]

After more research into the matter, I realized I wouldn't have to solder. The most pesky thing is the darn RF shield. I really don't want to scratch the motherboard when prying up the thing. If only they used screws...Anyways, thanks for your assistance. I hope that I can get this thing working again.

[zylon]

I wind up breaking the tabs every time I open one up. I just set it back in place afterwards and the console top holds it in position.

[0078265317]

zylon, on Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:52 AM, said:

I wind up breaking the tabs every time I open one up. I just set it back in place afterwards and the console top holds it in position.

Did you break the tabs when you fiexd mine?

[dino999]

This is the first time this shield has been removed in almost 30 years and was very tough. I think I scratched one of the motherboard traces. I am afraid if I power on the board something might get fried. Am I overreacting? Is it safe to turn on? Is there a better way to secure the RF shield and is it even necessary?

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Edited by dino999, Tue Aug 16, 2011 12:41 PM.

[Official Ninja]

dino999, on Tue Aug 16, 2011 12:38 PM, said:

This is the first time this shield has been removed in almost 30 years and was very tough. I think I scratched one of the motherboard traces. I am afraid if I power on the board something might get fried. Am I overreacting? Is it safe to turn on? Is there a better way to secure the RF shield and is it even necessary?

Follow the trace both ways and check with a meter for continuity at both ends.

Edited by Official Ninja, Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:28 PM.

[dino999]

I should be able to borrow a multimeter. Some research into electrical continuity leaves me with some more questions for you. Don't I have to power on the motherboard to determine continuity? When turning on the board, if there was damage, would the electricity destroy other components. Also when testing for continuity, the right side of the goes to a resistor and the left goes to a silver "dot" on the motherboard. So I would place one end of the meter on the resistor end touching the resistor and the other on the silver "dot"?

Please bear with me and my ignorance in these matters.

Edited by dino999, Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:49 PM.

[zylon]

0078265317, on Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:25 PM, said:

zylon, on Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:52 AM, said:

I wind up breaking the tabs every time I open one up. I just set it back in place afterwards and the console top holds it in position.

Did you break the tabs when you fiexd mine?

Some, but not all. Sometimes they are twisted at the factory almost to the breaking point and they snap when you twist them back. On a few occasions, I've left out the top of shield with no problems. Yours is safely back in place. The console top actually holds it in perfect position.

[Official Ninja]

dino999, on Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:29 PM, said:

So I would place one end of the meter on the resistor end touching the resistor and the other on the silver "dot"?

Yes, that is right. Just not the other end of the resistor. Check with the power off.
If the meter "beeps" the trace should work fine.

[dino999]

Would a GTIA from another Atari 8-bit system be compatible with my Atari 5200? Example: the Atari XE or Atari 800.

The Best Electronics guy won't allow me to order anything unless I spend $35. That's a horrible deal since he sells the GTIA for $5 which I hope is the only thing I need.

[eightbitter]

Sure, this is the same chip, but different signs. Remember bend pin as in original chip, if needed.

[dino999]

eightbitter, on Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:00 AM, said:

Sure, this is the same chip, but different signs. Remember bend pin as in original chip, if needed.

Could you elaborate? What do you mean by "different signs." How would I bend the pins? Shouldn't it have the same pin layout? Are there different versions that are not compatible?

[eightbitter]

I don't know where are you from. You can use GTIA the same TV version for replace, i.e. if your 5200 is NTSC, then you can use GTIA from Atari 400, 800, XL or XE NTSC version only.
In some versions of 5200 10 pin of GTIA is bend out of socket, you should make the same in new chip.
And next about signs: GTIA NTSC is signed CO14805, PAL CO14889, SECAM CO20120.

Edited by eightbitter, Tue Aug 30, 2011 5:58 AM.

[dino999]

Darn't I did not look at the GTIA chip when I removed it from my 2-port NTSC Atari 5200. I thought all pins were inserted. Is there a way to tell whether all the pins should be inserted in my unit?

[dino999]

Ok. I replaced the GTIA with a guaranteed working 5200 GTIA. I turn on the system with game and controller plugged into it. I still get a black screen.

I put back the old GTIA, and replaced the ANTIC with a guaranteed working 5200 ANTIC. I turn on the system with game and controller plugged into it. I still get a black screen.

I replaced both GTIA and ANTIC with working versions and I still get a black screen. Anyone have ideas on what the problem is or what my next step should be?

[toiletunes]

I would try putting the suspect GITA / ANTIC into the known working console, just to make 100% sure they work. Also test your console with a known working game if available and/or thoroughly clean the games you have and try them also. Lastly, try the console on a different TV / try the switchbox with a different console / try a different channel. I know nothing about electronics, but this will help with process of elimination.

If still no good, I would take it to a shop / see if someone here could take a look / buy a different console and cross your fingers.

[eightbitter]

Check supply voltage. Should be 5V ±5% at output pins of both 7805. Very often corrupts the memory. Check if not warm any of the RAM chips and replace them. Try replace all RAMs for the same type. I once met a faulty circuit 74LS139.

[Cebus Capucinis]

If it's completely dead I'm interested in it for projects. (However, do not sell it to me until it's 100% confirmed it's a non-functioning console. I only work with dead stock. )

[zylon]

That little chip near the power button could be suspect as well. It sends power to the CPU and the video components. It may be sending power to video, but not the CPU functions.

[dino999]

eightbitter, on Sun Sep 4, 2011 1:20 PM, said:

Check supply voltage. Should be 5V ±5% at output pins of both 7805. Very often corrupts the memory. Check if not warm any of the RAM chips and replace them. Try replace all RAMs for the same type. I once met a faulty circuit 74LS139.

Could you show me with a picture of where I should check voltage? Should I power the console on when check the voltage?