10 replies to this topic

[thegoldenband]

Any tips on repairing a Wico Boss? I fired up my childhood Boss tonight, and found that all four joystick directions were spongy and only partially responsive. However, when I opened it up, I realized I wasn't really sure what I was looking at -- it certainly looked more mechanically complex than a CX-40 -- so I don't want to wade in until I know a little more.

Also, I'd like to try fixing my second TAC-2, which I picked up recently as part of a Shopgoodwill.com lot, and which has one nonworking direction. It uses a square screwhead, and I have a short bit that can open up the exposed screws, but it's not long enough to reach the recessed ones. What's the best place to get one of those? Or is there a common household item that can serve as a substitute in a pinch?

BTW I'm feeling pretty good about the way I spent this evening. I started out with a box I got from my brother, containing 4 CX-40s, the aforementioned Wico Boss, a Quickshot, and some paddles. All had problems -- typically one or two directions didn't work, or were barely responsive -- and were slated to be thrown out when my parents moved, but I told my brother not to toss them.

I haven't touched the paddles yet (and I'm sure they're jittery as heck), but so far I've salvaged two of the CX-40s and the Quickshot. One of the CX-40s feels perfect now, as does the Quickshot; the other CX-40 is quite playable, just a tiny bit stiff by comparison (it also needs a new rubber boot). It's amazing what you can do with a multimeter, a paper clip, and a willingness to cannibalize parts!

In a stroke of good luck, the two CX-40s that were worst off (i.e. unsalvageable) both had intact rings at the base of the plastic joystick handle. Swapping that out solved the main problem with the other two, since both of the "good" CX-40s had cracked rings. I was also able to cannibalize one of the "bad" CX-40s heavily, allowing me to upgrade the case and fire button on my "good" CX-40, and swap out the defective cord on my Quickshot (which turned out to be a perfect fit). I have no idea how I'd repair a broken cord, but diagnosing and swapping it out was no problem. Somehow I'd assumed it would be soldered to the board, I guess...

Edited by thegoldenband, Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:47 AM.

[Schizophretard]

With the TAC-2 I use a flathead screwdriver that fits from corner to corner in the square.

[thegoldenband]

Schizophretard, on Mon Aug 22, 2011 2:48 AM, said:

With the TAC-2 I use a flathead screwdriver that fits from corner to corner in the square.

Something like that had crossed my mind. I'll have to see if we have one that fits. Anything tricky about the internals?

[Stan]

thegoldenband, on Mon Aug 22, 2011 12:39 PM, said:

Anything tricky about the internals?

Don't quote me on this (get it?), but I'm pretty sure the TAC2's work by using some sort of system that functions on static electricity, so it might be that they're fried and impossible to fix. Just what I seem to remember about them, but I could be wrong. Never had one go bad on me.

[thegoldenband]

Hey, thanks for the reply. I managed to get my TAC-2 open using Schizophretard's method, and it was pretty straightforward. I think it's mechanically sound since only one direction doesn't work, and the problem is definitely the cable -- there's a fault close to the plug, and when I bend the plug hard, it regains continuity temporarily. I guess I'll have to solder in a replacement someday, unless there's a good way of opening up the business end of a controller cable.

I didn't have any luck with the Wico Boss. I opened it, and tried to clean what I could using Q-tips & alcohol on the metal contact strips, but it's still mushy and doesn't respond cleanly (though the fire button is fine). Any suggestions?

Edited by thegoldenband, Thu Aug 25, 2011 11:49 PM.

[thegoldenband]

Bump. Anyone got any suggestions for cleaning up this Wico Boss? Picture here (not mine) if you don't immediately associate the joystick with the name.

[solidcorp]

I have a Boss and I love it for certain games. Mine is still fine and I'm not sure exactly what you mean by spongy... does it lack spring? and/or do the switches sometimes not work?

It looks like the internals of a Wico Boss joystick pictured at the bottom of this page are really similar to the internals of modern top fire sticks except instead of using microswitches they use leaf switches. The picture is very muddy.

To clean a leaf switch you can simply run a business card back and forth between the contacts while holding them together with your fingers, or as a last resort an emery board or sandpaper. Some contacts are silver coated and you really don't want to wear that off if its still there because it makes a better contact and keeps the underlying brass from oxidizing.

I can't tell if the centering springs are integrated into those switches or are above the circuit board. If the springs are in the switches and have been compressed there is not much you can do except maybe bend the spring arms sligthtly towards center. If the centering spring mechanism is above (as I suspect) that circuit board, you can disassemble it and replace or stretch the spring slightly to see if you can buy back response.

Wico made coin op and consumer products. Hereis a picture of another Wico joystick that used micro switches and has a compression spring for centering, it's from this site with photos of lots of Wico stick internals - all that I see seem to have the compression spring.

Good luck, post pictures if you can.

Scott

[Rybags]

The leaf switches can collect a bit of oxide, so a light sand and/or contact cleaner would help there.

In my Wico (3-way) the leaf switches have the 2 leaf contacts and a third thicker piece that acts like a governor stopping the other 2 being pushed too far.

You can increase the sensitivity by gentle force on the thicker piece - by now the plastics on these things might be brittle so take care with it.

My joystick I got around 1984 or so and I don't think I've opened it since the early 1990s. So they should last a real long time once you service it and get it right.

Also IIRC you can simply unclip the switches and swap them (e.g swap a dodgy direction with the fire button), although I'm assuming here the Boss also has the fire button switch itself in the base and it's of the same type as the others.

Edited by Rybags, Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:36 AM.

[Cynicaster]

I always thought "spongy" was the defining characteristic of the Boss. I had a few of these BITD, and always found that its throw felt like a country mile, which sucks for twitch gaming--and the VCS is all about twitch gaming. I remember I'd lose like 30% off my score on Frostbite if I used the Boss rather than a CX40, the latter of which is the only stick I like anymore.

[FABombjoy]

Rybags, on Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:35 AM, said:

The leaf switches can collect a bit of oxide, so a light sand and/or contact cleaner would help there.

I'd avoid sanding unless really necessary. Solidcorp's post above is right on with the business card tip. The consumer-grade Wico leafs are a little trickier to clean than their arcade counterparts as the contacts tend to bite in to and tear business cards, but they can still be cleaned. If you go straight for the file or sandpaper then they'll need to be serviced more frequently.

Pinrepair has a nice bit on leafs here: http://www.pinrepair...ndex2.htm#clean

I've cleaned up many a Boss, and you can really change their personality by cleaning and adjusting the leaf switches tighter.

[thegoldenband]

Hey, thanks so much to all for the tips! I'll give solidcorp's suggestion a try.

I've always liked the feel of the Boss for certain games, though I know it's not for everyone or suitable for every game. I can see how "spongy" might seem like the default state -- it's sort of the polar opposite of the TAC-2. But this one just doesn't respond consistently, requires way too much pressure to make full contact, and is basically just messed up.

I have a second one that feels much better, BTW, but unfortunately it has an intermittent cable fault.