13 replies to this topic

[Allan]

Does anybody know about these new xe/xl power supplies that are on eBay? Are they any good? Any advantage to them?

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 230742274234

Allan

[Fox-1 / mnx]

Allan, on Mon Feb 6, 2012 2:48 PM, said:

Does anybody know about these new xe/xl power supplies that are on eBay?

They probably work but these aren't Atari power supplies. Just a generic one with an Atari connector put on.

[Bryan]

Someone is putting the Atari DIN on a small switching supply. Seems like a good idea to me since the failure mode of switchers is typically no output or noisy output rather than increased voltage as is often the case with linear supplies.

[Stephen]

I built myself a similar one, using a 2.4Amp switching supply built by DVE. I think it powered a router or switch at one time. It's tiny, lightweight, and puts out no heat.

[orpheuswaking]

The nice thing about them is that they are mostly higher amps which is good if you have a lot of modifications in your machine.

[flashjazzcat]

These are exactly the kind I build myself. Small size, high amps, and hopefully pretty safe.

[bbking67]

With a 5V DC power supply, what is the minimum current required? Some of my Ataris have 1.5A and other 1A power supplies... if I use a switching power supply (I have one from an old router) can I get away with 1.5A or is it better to use a 2A or 2.5A supply?

These should be easy enough to find in the Value Village wall of junk...

Are the 1050 supplies replacable? I see that they are 9VAC, but 3.4A! I haven't got anything that big...

[w1k]

question of year :
can i power my atari with batteries?

[sloopy]

bbking67, on Tue Feb 7, 2012 7:20 AM, said:

With a 5V DC power supply, what is the minimum current required? Some of my Ataris have 1.5A and other 1A power supplies... if I use a switching power supply (I have one from an old router) can I get away with 1.5A or is it better to use a 2A or 2.5A supply?

These should be easy enough to find in the Value Village wall of junk...

Are the 1050 supplies replacable? I see that they are 9VAC, but 3.4A! I haven't got anything that big...

For a stock machine, a 1A is fine, but if you have or are planning on adding internal upgrades, a 1.5A or larger is suggested. Anything over 2A will work but is overkill.

2.0/2.1A 5V wall warts are common on USB hubs. You can commonly get one for $10 or less with wallwart at most discount stores and other places.

w1k: batteries? sure, one car battery will work with a voltage regulator...
sloopy.

[Allan]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Allan

[BillC]

bbking67, on Tue Feb 7, 2012 7:20 AM, said:

With a 5V DC power supply, what is the minimum current required? Some of my Ataris have 1.5A and other 1A power supplies... if I use a switching power supply (I have one from an old router) can I get away with 1.5A or is it better to use a 2A or 2.5A supply?

These should be easy enough to find in the Value Village wall of junk...

Are the 1050 supplies replacable? I see that they are 9VAC, but 3.4A! I haven't got anything that big...

1050s can be modified to run using a dual voltage regulated +5/+12V power supply, since that's what the rectifiers/regulators convert it to. This also eliminates a lot of heat from the inside of the drive.

[Bryan]

Even simpler is to run 12V into the drive and power the 5V regulator off it.

[bbking67]

how do you do that? is that 12V DC Bryan?

Edited by bbking67, Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:00 PM.

[Bryan]

Yes, the drive converts the AC coming in to 5V and 12V. If you modified the drive, you could run 12VDC directly in and run the 5V regulator off that. Basically, you would remove the 12V regulator and connect 12V to it's OUT pad. Looking at the schematic, you could probably leave everything else alone as long as the supply was tip positive.
pos -o)- neg

Oh yeah, you'd also need to connect the negative to the drive's ground (after the power switch, though).

Here's what I think will work (not tested):
Get a 12V regulated supply. 2A or more recommended. Tip positive with the correct barrel plug.
Remove regulator Q8 and jumper from the junction of CR17 and CR20 to the third pad of Q8.
Solder a jumper across CR19.