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New 8-bit power supplies on eBay


Allan

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Someone is putting the Atari DIN on a small switching supply. Seems like a good idea to me since the failure mode of switchers is typically no output or noisy output rather than increased voltage as is often the case with linear supplies.

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With a 5V DC power supply, what is the minimum current required? Some of my Ataris have 1.5A and other 1A power supplies... if I use a switching power supply (I have one from an old router) can I get away with 1.5A or is it better to use a 2A or 2.5A supply?

 

These should be easy enough to find in the Value Village wall of junk...

 

Are the 1050 supplies replacable? I see that they are 9VAC, but 3.4A! I haven't got anything that big...

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With a 5V DC power supply, what is the minimum current required? Some of my Ataris have 1.5A and other 1A power supplies... if I use a switching power supply (I have one from an old router) can I get away with 1.5A or is it better to use a 2A or 2.5A supply?

 

These should be easy enough to find in the Value Village wall of junk...

 

Are the 1050 supplies replacable? I see that they are 9VAC, but 3.4A! I haven't got anything that big...

 

For a stock machine, a 1A is fine, but if you have or are planning on adding internal upgrades, a 1.5A or larger is suggested. Anything over 2A will work but is overkill.

 

2.0/2.1A 5V wall warts are common on USB hubs. You can commonly get one for $10 or less with wallwart at most discount stores and other places.

 

w1k: batteries? sure, one car battery will work with a voltage regulator...

sloopy.

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With a 5V DC power supply, what is the minimum current required? Some of my Ataris have 1.5A and other 1A power supplies... if I use a switching power supply (I have one from an old router) can I get away with 1.5A or is it better to use a 2A or 2.5A supply?

 

These should be easy enough to find in the Value Village wall of junk...

 

Are the 1050 supplies replacable? I see that they are 9VAC, but 3.4A! I haven't got anything that big...

1050s can be modified to run using a dual voltage regulated +5/+12V power supply, since that's what the rectifiers/regulators convert it to. This also eliminates a lot of heat from the inside of the drive.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, the drive converts the AC coming in to 5V and 12V. If you modified the drive, you could run 12VDC directly in and run the 5V regulator off that. Basically, you would remove the 12V regulator and connect 12V to it's OUT pad. Looking at the schematic, you could probably leave everything else alone as long as the supply was tip positive.

pos -o)- neg

 

Oh yeah, you'd also need to connect the negative to the drive's ground (after the power switch, though).

 

Here's what I think will work (not tested):

Get a 12V regulated supply. 2A or more recommended. Tip positive with the correct barrel plug.

Remove regulator Q8 and jumper from the junction of CR17 and CR20 to the third pad of Q8.

Solder a jumper across CR19.

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