42 replies to this topic

[atarilovesyou]

icemanxp300, on Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:24 PM, said:

I have a billion authentic pads, not generic. I mainly collect nes and buy bulk for that system and end up w/so much stuff I practically give it away lol.

You've got new old stock?!?...do you accept paypal?

[Jibbajaba]

FABombjoy, on Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:10 PM, said:

atarilovesyou, on Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:14 AM, said:

I'm still wary about how long this will last. Water and metal doesn't mix, right?...perhaps the boiling causes some changes deep in the metal pins

I don't know what the base metal is, but the platings don't oxidize under normal environmental conditions... Like how the change in your pocket isn't corroded / rusty.

The price of DeOxit combined with all of the woo-factor on their website really puts me off. I'm sure it's fine for what it does, but if you read their literature it's geared around extreme conditions, high-vibration environments, etc. Again, under normal conditions, gold / nickel / tin platings don't oxidize, so it isn't really "oxidation" that harms connections so much as "dust-and-crud-itation". As long as your pin / game cleaning strategies are non-destructive to the factory gold platings - no sandpaper, no erasers, no polishes - you'll have better long term results. Oily films left behind by contact cleaners typically just attract more dust.

Not all connectors / games are gold plated, but most are. Some are copper or nickel/tin (I can't distinguish them by sight). Copper is the most susceptible to oxidation but you can clean it with a vinegar & salt solution. I only use spray contact cleaners when accessibility / repair is difficult, like in outdoor or automotive applications. In those cases, where a connector is in place for prolonged periods of time, there is a possible advantage to having a protective film as it helps maintain a water/oxygen free contact space.

I definitely respect your opinion, but on this topic I have to disagree. I have had deoxit work wonders, amd have seen the cheap imitation stuff from Radio Shack do nothing. I started using deoxit to clean the pots for volume knobs and whatnot, but started using it more for gaming equipment. DeOxit is a cleaner, but DeOxit Gold is a connection enhancer. I had a model 1 Sega CD console that I thought was giving me trouble, but after treating the connector n the underside of my Genesis with DeOxit Gold, it works great. And just tonight I had a couple of Atari Jaguar games that refused to work no matter how much I cleaned them, but after applying a thin layer of DG with a foam swab, they work perfectly.

Thanks for the tip about the vinegar and salt solution for corroded contacts. I sometimes get old games with badly oxidized connectors.

Chris

[atarilovesyou]

I still wonder how the spray contact cleaner 'works'...where does that oxidation go, does it just evaporate?...or dissolves, but then what? Unless you use a cotton swab directly afterwards while it's still wet, where does all the oxidation go?

All I know is that this boiling method worked, but I also used a spray contact cleaner (carefully). I'm tempted to open all my carts and use this contact cleaner rather than my old standby high-concentration rubbing alchohol.

[FABombjoy]

Jibbajaba, on Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:17 AM, said:

I have had deoxit work wonders

Oh I believe that DeOxit works. It's just really expensive for the quantity, and some of their claims are a bit silly (Clearer video, cleaner audio, etc).

If you use metallurgically appropriate cleaners you'll save a ton of money and have the same positive results.

Jibbajaba, on Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:17 AM, said:

Thanks for the tip about the vinegar and salt solution for corroded contacts. I sometimes get old games with badly oxidized connectors.

I've had it restore completely non-functional copper connectors, but there is a time element. Don't let it sit on them for too long or you'll really have to reclean the connector. If you google "diy copper cleaner" you'll get some recipes. Always flush with rubbing alcohol or similar volatile solvent once done.

[icemanxp300]

I might have to try this deoxit stuff. I have a yoshi's island that will not play for nothing. I took that apart and scrubbed the crap outta it with alcohol and brasso and still all I got was a chime.

[icemanxp300]

atarilovesyou, on Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:09 PM, said:

icemanxp300, on Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:24 PM, said:

I have a billion authentic pads, not generic. I mainly collect nes and buy bulk for that system and end up w/so much stuff I practically give it away lol.

You've got new old stock?!?...do you accept paypal?

LOL Actually I do have sealed controllers but those are not for sale. I have many used nintendo brand controllers if you are interested in those.

[Zing]

I will also say that boiling is the way to go. I have done it several times and it worked perfectly each time on systems that were previously "blinky". I did nothing else but boil the connectors. It cleans and reshapes the pins without any effort.

I once tried contact cleaner (100% isopropyl) and it did nothing but leave a residue. I just use 99% alcohol and cotton swabs on my games.

[Jibbajaba]

I just picked up some more DeOxit at Fry's yesterday. $14 for a 5oz can, which is practically a lifetime supply if you're using it right. And only $4 more expensive than the contact cleaner that Radio Shack sells, and their stuff is shit.

For anyone thinking about getting a can, DeOxit Red is the stuff you want. DeOxit Gold is like a post-cleaning protectant. I don't know what the Green one is.

Chris

[genesisguy]

Zing, on Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:00 PM, said:

I will also say that boiling is the way to go. I have done it several times and it worked perfectly each time on systems that were previously "blinky". I did nothing else but boil the connectors. It cleans and reshapes the pins without any effort.

I once tried contact cleaner (100% isopropyl) and it did nothing but leave a residue. I just use 99% alcohol and cotton swabs on my games.

You say just boil huh? No baking? How do you dry the wet connectors or is that a non-issue? I'd be afraid of residue leading to rust.

[Zing]

Yes, I did bake to dry, sorry. I meant that I did not scrub the connectors or anything.

I tried scrubbing the connectors with a toothbrush once and it bent a pin. I couldn't fix it.

[Rex Dart]

If all the baking's for is drying, you could probably just use a hair dryer, fan, or the nearest convenient star...

[atarilovesyou]

Rex Dart, on Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:29 PM, said:

If all the baking's for is drying, you could probably just use a hair dryer, fan, or the nearest convenient star...

Blowdryer worked for me, just crank it up and leave it one for about five minutes. The water on the pins evaporates pretty quick, but it's the water on the plastic that takes time. Baking seems like overkill, plus I wouldn't risk melting the plastic.

If all you do is the boil trick, I don't think you'd go wrong. If it corrodes, well...I don't even know how long that would take to start but I think the quick dip in boiling water isn't enough to start the whole process. Or maybe it is?...all I know is that my NES works better than it has in over 20 years. I'm sold on the process; those cheapo replacement connectors on ebay (and I've bought two of em) are garbage, IMO. Yes, they 'work', but they certainly aren't as good as the originals and if all it takes is a quick boil to get an old one working again, the answer is obvious.

If you're still worried about corrosion, just run some high concentrate rubbing alcohol through it once you're done. It will displace the water and evaporate with almost no residue, then just let air dry.

[atarilovesyou]

Jibbajaba, on Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:00 AM, said:

I just picked up some more DeOxit at Fry's yesterday. $14 for a 5oz can, which is practically a lifetime supply if you're using it right. And only $4 more expensive than the contact cleaner that Radio Shack sells, and their stuff is shit.

For anyone thinking about getting a can, DeOxit Red is the stuff you want. DeOxit Gold is like a post-cleaning protectant. I don't know what the Green one is.

Chris

I'm gonna order some for my games. I bought some spray contact cleaner from Radio Shack and I wasn't impressed...maybe just because it's in a spray form, I dunno.

Gotta direct link to ordering online?...they have a ton of products and I can't find the 'Red'...thanks.

Edited by atarilovesyou, Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:39 AM.

[icemanxp300]

Rex Dart, on Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:29 PM, said:

If all the baking's for is drying, you could probably just use a hair dryer, fan, or the nearest convenient star...

No I think the baking does help to form the pins back to original shape as well or at least helps hold them into position once they get there. You can try variations, but this method has the baking in it for a reason. I doubt it's just to dry the connectors.

[atarilovesyou]

The baking will not get hot enough to change the shape of the metal pins. The plastic would melt a lot sooner, and then you'd have far worse problems. It's to ensure all the moisture is removed.

Let experience be your guide. I tried this method without the baking and it worked perfectly. I guess I'll find out in a year or so if the boiling caused corrosion in the pins...when I take it apart again for a cleaning.

[BillyHW]

Why on earth would boiling work?

[Asaki]

Probably the same reason people boil bass guitar strings.

[BillyHW]

And probably not the same reason people boil spaghetti.