atarilovesyou Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 I have a billion authentic pads, not generic. I mainly collect nes and buy bulk for that system and end up w/so much stuff I practically give it away lol. You've got new old stock?!?...do you accept paypal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I'm still wary about how long this will last. Water and metal doesn't mix, right?...perhaps the boiling causes some changes deep in the metal pins I don't know what the base metal is, but the platings don't oxidize under normal environmental conditions... Like how the change in your pocket isn't corroded / rusty. The price of DeOxit combined with all of the woo-factor on their website really puts me off. I'm sure it's fine for what it does, but if you read their literature it's geared around extreme conditions, high-vibration environments, etc. Again, under normal conditions, gold / nickel / tin platings don't oxidize, so it isn't really "oxidation" that harms connections so much as "dust-and-crud-itation". As long as your pin / game cleaning strategies are non-destructive to the factory gold platings - no sandpaper, no erasers, no polishes - you'll have better long term results. Oily films left behind by contact cleaners typically just attract more dust. Not all connectors / games are gold plated, but most are. Some are copper or nickel/tin (I can't distinguish them by sight). Copper is the most susceptible to oxidation but you can clean it with a vinegar & salt solution. I only use spray contact cleaners when accessibility / repair is difficult, like in outdoor or automotive applications. In those cases, where a connector is in place for prolonged periods of time, there is a possible advantage to having a protective film as it helps maintain a water/oxygen free contact space. I definitely respect your opinion, but on this topic I have to disagree. I have had deoxit work wonders, amd have seen the cheap imitation stuff from Radio Shack do nothing. I started using deoxit to clean the pots for volume knobs and whatnot, but started using it more for gaming equipment. DeOxit is a cleaner, but DeOxit Gold is a connection enhancer. I had a model 1 Sega CD console that I thought was giving me trouble, but after treating the connector n the underside of my Genesis with DeOxit Gold, it works great. And just tonight I had a couple of Atari Jaguar games that refused to work no matter how much I cleaned them, but after applying a thin layer of DG with a foam swab, they work perfectly. Thanks for the tip about the vinegar and salt solution for corroded contacts. I sometimes get old games with badly oxidized connectors. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 I still wonder how the spray contact cleaner 'works'...where does that oxidation go, does it just evaporate?...or dissolves, but then what? Unless you use a cotton swab directly afterwards while it's still wet, where does all the oxidation go? All I know is that this boiling method worked, but I also used a spray contact cleaner (carefully). I'm tempted to open all my carts and use this contact cleaner rather than my old standby high-concentration rubbing alchohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FABombjoy Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I have had deoxit work wonders Oh I believe that DeOxit works. It's just really expensive for the quantity, and some of their claims are a bit silly (Clearer video, cleaner audio, etc). If you use metallurgically appropriate cleaners you'll save a ton of money and have the same positive results. Thanks for the tip about the vinegar and salt solution for corroded contacts. I sometimes get old games with badly oxidized connectors. I've had it restore completely non-functional copper connectors, but there is a time element. Don't let it sit on them for too long or you'll really have to reclean the connector. If you google "diy copper cleaner" you'll get some recipes. Always flush with rubbing alcohol or similar volatile solvent once done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I might have to try this deoxit stuff. I have a yoshi's island that will not play for nothing. I took that apart and scrubbed the crap outta it with alcohol and brasso and still all I got was a chime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I have a billion authentic pads, not generic. I mainly collect nes and buy bulk for that system and end up w/so much stuff I practically give it away lol. You've got new old stock?!?...do you accept paypal? LOL Actually I do have sealed controllers but those are not for sale. I have many used nintendo brand controllers if you are interested in those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zing Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I will also say that boiling is the way to go. I have done it several times and it worked perfectly each time on systems that were previously "blinky". I did nothing else but boil the connectors. It cleans and reshapes the pins without any effort. I once tried contact cleaner (100% isopropyl) and it did nothing but leave a residue. I just use 99% alcohol and cotton swabs on my games. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I just picked up some more DeOxit at Fry's yesterday. $14 for a 5oz can, which is practically a lifetime supply if you're using it right. And only $4 more expensive than the contact cleaner that Radio Shack sells, and their stuff is shit. For anyone thinking about getting a can, DeOxit Red is the stuff you want. DeOxit Gold is like a post-cleaning protectant. I don't know what the Green one is. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genesisguy Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I will also say that boiling is the way to go. I have done it several times and it worked perfectly each time on systems that were previously "blinky". I did nothing else but boil the connectors. It cleans and reshapes the pins without any effort. I once tried contact cleaner (100% isopropyl) and it did nothing but leave a residue. I just use 99% alcohol and cotton swabs on my games. You say just boil huh? No baking? How do you dry the wet connectors or is that a non-issue? I'd be afraid of residue leading to rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zing Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Yes, I did bake to dry, sorry. I meant that I did not scrub the connectors or anything. I tried scrubbing the connectors with a toothbrush once and it bent a pin. I couldn't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Dart Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 If all the baking's for is drying, you could probably just use a hair dryer, fan, or the nearest convenient star... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 If all the baking's for is drying, you could probably just use a hair dryer, fan, or the nearest convenient star... Blowdryer worked for me, just crank it up and leave it one for about five minutes. The water on the pins evaporates pretty quick, but it's the water on the plastic that takes time. Baking seems like overkill, plus I wouldn't risk melting the plastic. If all you do is the boil trick, I don't think you'd go wrong. If it corrodes, well...I don't even know how long that would take to start but I think the quick dip in boiling water isn't enough to start the whole process. Or maybe it is?...all I know is that my NES works better than it has in over 20 years. I'm sold on the process; those cheapo replacement connectors on ebay (and I've bought two of em) are garbage, IMO. Yes, they 'work', but they certainly aren't as good as the originals and if all it takes is a quick boil to get an old one working again, the answer is obvious. If you're still worried about corrosion, just run some high concentrate rubbing alcohol through it once you're done. It will displace the water and evaporate with almost no residue, then just let air dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) I just picked up some more DeOxit at Fry's yesterday. $14 for a 5oz can, which is practically a lifetime supply if you're using it right. And only $4 more expensive than the contact cleaner that Radio Shack sells, and their stuff is shit. For anyone thinking about getting a can, DeOxit Red is the stuff you want. DeOxit Gold is like a post-cleaning protectant. I don't know what the Green one is. Chris I'm gonna order some for my games. I bought some spray contact cleaner from Radio Shack and I wasn't impressed...maybe just because it's in a spray form, I dunno. Gotta direct link to ordering online?...they have a ton of products and I can't find the 'Red'...thanks. Edited February 24, 2012 by atarilovesyou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 If all the baking's for is drying, you could probably just use a hair dryer, fan, or the nearest convenient star... No I think the baking does help to form the pins back to original shape as well or at least helps hold them into position once they get there. You can try variations, but this method has the baking in it for a reason. I doubt it's just to dry the connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 The baking will not get hot enough to change the shape of the metal pins. The plastic would melt a lot sooner, and then you'd have far worse problems. It's to ensure all the moisture is removed. Let experience be your guide. I tried this method without the baking and it worked perfectly. I guess I'll find out in a year or so if the boiling caused corrosion in the pins...when I take it apart again for a cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyHW Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Why on earth would boiling work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asaki Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Probably the same reason people boil bass guitar strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyHW Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 And probably not the same reason people boil spaghetti. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalwario64 Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 And probably not the same reason people boil spaghetti. Mmmm.... Spaghetti and NES cartridge connectors.... Yum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Why on earth would boiling work? No idea how or why it works, Billy Homework ol-buddy-ol-PAL!...but it works somehow. I could try to bs ya about 'sonic baths' and other stuff but, hey...I have no idea. In fact in theory it sounds like a bad idea (water and metal shouldn't mix, in my mind)...but it worked and a few guys here say that corrosion isn't an issue if you boil it and then immediately dry it out. Some bake, I blow dry and flush with rubbing alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Why on earth would boiling work? No idea how or why it works, Billy Homework ol-buddy-ol-PAL!...but it works somehow. I could try to bs ya about 'sonic baths' and other stuff but, hey...I have no idea. In fact in theory it sounds like a bad idea (water and metal shouldn't mix, in my mind)...but it worked and a few guys here say that corrosion isn't an issue if you boil it and then immediately dry it out. Some bake, I blow dry and flush with rubbing alcohol. My assumption is that it removes the dirt with greater ease than cleaning it by hand. I have never done it, but it sounds like it would be worth trying. I know a lot of folks over at NintendoAge swear by it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyHW Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Is there a chemist here who might know the answer to this great mystery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Is there a chemist here who might know the answer to this great mystery? I think I'm going to enjoy the mystery. Like Froot Loops. What the hell is even in those things? I dunno. Ignorance is bliss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyHW Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Is there a chemist here who might know the answer to this great mystery? I think I'm going to enjoy the mystery. Like Froot Loops. What the hell is even in those things? I dunno. Ignorance is bliss. Sugar and food colouring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarilovesyou Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Is there a chemist here who might know the answer to this great mystery? I think I'm going to enjoy the mystery. Like Froot Loops. What the hell is even in those things? I dunno. Ignorance is bliss. Sugar and food colouring. You forgot one ingredient: PURE MAGIC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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