69 replies to this topic

[tjlazer]

remowilliams, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 1:11 AM, said:

shadow460, on Sun Nov 26, 2006 3:13 AM, said:

Anyway, I got a larger diode than what Mitch used. It had all the same specs, but it was rated for three times the current.

Yeah, same here. I picked up the 3A diode (276-1141).

I plan to get the parts from Rat Shack. Can you please give me the names and numbers for the rest of the parts? All but the powerjack as I saw those there the other day.

Thanks

[shadow460]

Aside from the power jack, here's the December 2006 Cell Phone Shack parts list:
47uF 35V electrolytic cap
1N5400 rectifier diode #276-1141 (bear in mind this is overkill--a smaller diode will work)
I don't remember right off what the filter cap is but it's a ceramic disc type with a number 104 on it.
Also, you need at least four inches of wire and a desoldering tool for the 4700uF cap and the inductor you have to remove.

Cell Phone Shack should have all this and a bag of chips. Count your lucky stars, since this is one of the few projects they have parts for.

The diodes and the filter caps come two to a pack, and I have one of each left over. If you want 'em, PM me with your address and I'll send 'em to ya. Cheaper for me to buy a stamp than for you to buy extra parts.

Edited by shadow460, Tue Nov 28, 2006 2:26 AM.

[CPUWIZ]

shadow460, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 2:22 AM, said:

Cell Phone Shack should have all this and a bag of chips.

Damn, you're lucky, they don't have any snacks at any RadioRape around here.

[remowilliams]

tjlazer, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 1:28 AM, said:

Can you please give me the names and numbers for the rest of the parts?

I'll list 'em all just in case someone else digs up this thread

Size N Panel-Mount Coaxial DC Power Jack
Model: 274-1576 | Catalog #: 274-1576

0.1µF 50V Hi-Q Ceramic Disc Capacitor Pk/2
Model: 272-135 | Catalog #: 272-135

3-Amp Barrel Diodes
Model: 1N5404 | Catalog #: 276-1144

47µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor
Model: 272-1027 | Catalog #: 272-1027

Edited by remowilliams, Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:36 AM.

[Uzumaki]

Quote

I don't remember right off what the filter cap is but it's a ceramic disc type with a number 104 on it.

104 just means 0.01 uF

First 2 numbers are value in pF and 3rd number is the multiplier. So 104= 10*10^4 or 100,000 pF or 0.01 uF

[shadow460]

I just realized what I said, too! "all this and a bag of chips" could also mean "all this and a bag of IC's!"

[remowilliams]

shadow460, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:00 PM, said:

I just realized what I said, too! "all this and a bag of chips" could also mean "all this and a bag of IC's!"

Except when talking about Crap Shack. They're far more likely to be stocking potato chips than the ICs you might need.

[jaybird3rd]

remowilliams, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:17 PM, said:

Except when talking about Crap Shack. They're far more likely to be stocking potato chips than the ICs you might need.

And they'll try to sell you an extended service plan when you buy them, too.

[JB]

jaybird3rd, on Mon Dec 4, 2006 3:22 PM, said:

remowilliams, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:17 PM, said:

Except when talking about Crap Shack. They're far more likely to be stocking potato chips than the ICs you might need.

And they'll try to sell you an extended service plan when you buy them, too.

I dunno, that might pay off big...

"So you're saying that if these batteries fail in the next five years, for ANY reason, you'll replace them?"

[Uzumaki]

Hmmm... I'll have to remember that plan next time I need AA's for my battery guzzling Lynx 1 and Game Gear system.

[shadow460]

Uzumaki, on Mon Dec 4, 2006 6:30 PM, said:

Hmmm... I'll have to remember that plan next time I need AA's for my battery guzzling Lynx 1 and Game Gear system.

Twelve NiMH cells from Wal Mart and a charger are all you need. I charge my Game Gear about once a month.

[A.J. Franzman]

Uzumaki, on Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:55 AM, said:

Quote

I don't remember right off what the filter cap is but it's a ceramic disc type with a number 104 on it.

104 just means 0.01 uF

First 2 numbers are value in pF and 3rd number is the multiplier. So 104= 10*10^4 or 100,000 pF or 0.01 uF

It's 0.1 uF, not 0.01 .

100,000 pF = 100 nF = 0.1 uF
Notice the decimal point moves three places left each time the prefix increases.

[mimo]

I have been given a capacitor with the markings 101J on it,
is this suitable?
What voltage should I be seeing?

[A.J. Franzman]

101 is 100 pF; the "J" means +/- 5% tolerance. This value is 1/1000 of the 100 nF value recommended above, and will result in a weaker signal to the TV, but it may work OK. Try it and let us know -- you can always change it if it doesn't.

[HARMIK]

Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything.

Edited by HARMIK, Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:00 AM.

[A.J. Franzman]

HARMIK, on Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:59 AM, said:

Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything.

Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox!

A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD!

Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television.


EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable.

Edited by A.J. Franzman, Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:59 PM.

[HARMIK]

A.J. Franzman, on Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:17 AM, said:

Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox!

A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD!

Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television.


EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable.

Thanks ill look into it it seems to work fine the work was done by 8bitdomain when he did my A/V mod

[A.J. Franzman]

HARMIK, on Wed Dec 12, 2007 12:37 AM, said:

A.J. Franzman, on Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:17 AM, said:

HARMIK, on Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:59 AM, said:

Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything.

Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox!

A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD!

Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television.


EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable.

Thanks ill look into it it seems to work fine the work was done by 8bitdomain when he did my A/V mod

Taking another look at your photo, there appears to have been more done than just adding a power jack wired directly to the board. In that same area, the white legend printed on the board shows a component outline but the component itself is not present. Also, the large filter capacitor seems to have been replaced with a much smaller one. I would not be surprised if there were changes on the bottom of the board too.

Edited by A.J. Franzman, Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:59 PM.

[shadow460]

Looks to me in his photo that the cap and LB have both been removed already, and the cap replaced. It's been a long time since anyone's been inside my 5200, but I vaguely remember what that section of the board looks like.

[A.J. Franzman]

Well, I've only ever opened one up once, and at that time I didn't have the right power supply for it so I did a temporary no-special-switchbox mod just for testing, and I don't remember there being another inductor (or is that a high-power resistor?) right beside L8. (Yes, it's L8, not LB folks!) But of course I could be mistaken. I don't remember there being any need to add a diode as HARMIK mentioned in post #40, either.

Edited by A.J. Franzman, Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:23 AM.

[mimo]

Actually the replacement motherboards from Best come with the smaller capacitor. And the part that is missing is just the RF lead (the metal bit that solders into the board) which is of no use in a PAL country if you are using AV out

Edited by mimo, Thu Dec 13, 2007 3:20 AM.

[mimo]

A.J. Franzman, on Wed Dec 12, 2007 4:17 AM, said:

HARMIK, on Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:59 AM, said:

Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything.

Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox!

A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD!

Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television.


EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable.

so if RF was never to be used again, would it be ok (safe) to tap straight into the board?

[HARMIK]

mimo, on Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:17 AM, said:

Actually the replacement motherboards from Best come with the smaller capacitor. And the part that is missing is just the RF lead (the metal bit that solders into the board) which is of no use in a PAL country if you are using AV out

Yes the board is from best but even with AV you still need a TV that can take NTSC when i was a kid i had a 5200 but would it not work on any tv's from here so i got a small 14" from sears. TV's that can take NTSC and PALL are relatively new here, i still have my first 5200 which is still RF and that will also will only work on newer TV's

[mimo]

HARMIK, on Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:53 AM, said:

mimo, on Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:17 AM, said:

Actually the replacement motherboards from Best come with the smaller capacitor. And the part that is missing is just the RF lead (the metal bit that solders into the board) which is of no use in a PAL country if you are using AV out

Yes the board is from best but even with AV you still need a TV that can take NTSC when i was a kid i had a 5200 but would it not work on any tv's from here so i got a small 14" from sears. TV's that can take NTSC and PALL are relatively new here, i still have my first 5200 which is still RF and that will also will only work on newer TV's

True

[phonedork]

Rob Mitchell, on Thu Feb 13, 2003 10:32 PM, said:

Why is it "pesky"?

Great mod btw.

Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA

Its pesky because you are forced to use that shitty RF! And being a RF engineer for T-mobile, I know RF and power bleed over to cause terrible reception! They should be seperated! But maybe you just like the orginal equipment.