5200 paddle controller mod-the smart way.
Started by Gunstar, Jul 30 2001 12:25 AM
21 replies to this topic
#1 ONLINE
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 12:25 AM
I made a 5200 paddle controller for Super Breakout and other games like Kaboom!, today. I took a look at the plans for a paddle modification under the 5200 faq at http:www.atarihq.com , but it is an overly difficult, dangerous, and cumbersome way of accomplishing something that could be done much simpler and with great elegance in design and ease of use.
This is what I have done. I use exactly the same parts as the way on the 5200 faq, but with much better and easier results. The "jist" of the dumb way was to end up with both the 5200 controller and a 2600 paddle connected to each other, so that the paddle and it's button would work "through" the 5200 controller. This included making a whole on the side of your 5200 controller for the wires and actuall soldering wires to the controllers delicate, plastic sheet circuit board. You end up with a cumbersome "dual" controller, if you don't destroy something first.
With my design, the whole thing is housed in the 5200 controller, which seems to have been designed with paddles in mind. This thing LOOKS like pictures of the prototype 5200 paddles I've seen.
I took my spare 2600 paddle controller (not a driving controller), pulled the dial off the top, and unscrewed the "wafer" lug nut underneath. I then removed the two screws from the bottom of the paddle controller, opened it up, disconnected the wires from the paddle mechanism and removed the paddle mechanism. Keep the dial, washer&nut and paddle mechanism, you'll need them.
Next, I unscrewed the three screws from the bottom of my spare 5200 controller, popped out the guard over the start, pause and reset buttons and pulled out the rubber buttons. I then opened up the controller, don't worry about keeping the "paddle mechansims" (potometer?) aligned, you won't be using the stick again. I then removed both mechanisms from the lower half of the controller (you'll need to wedge a small screw driver under them and force them out, because they are glued in place). Pull the wires off the top mechanism, and set it aside, you won't need it. On the lower mechanism, remove the center wire and connect it to the center connection on the 2600 paddle mehansim (this can be done by soldering or twist-tying the wires, or by simply slipping them on if the connectors fit.) Now the second wire on the 5200 mechanism is on the RIGHT hand side, with the three connections facing the keypad, remove this wire and connect it to the LEFT hand connection on the 2600 mechanism, with it's connections facing the keypad.
Now comes what was the hard part for me; removing the joystick from the upper half of the controller case. I tried and tried and could not pull or twist this stick apart. I finally removed it by slicing a little square housing, that holds the stick in place, in half with an exacto-knife. Slipping the housing off, I removed the joystick. There are also two "plates," one black, the other white, that help in controlling the stick. I made sure these were centered with the upper casing and the hole that the joystick went through, then I super glued them in place. I then slipped the 2600 paddle mechanism up through the slots of the plates and the hole of the case. Now slip the washer and "wafer" lugnut from the 2600 paddle over the "new" 2600 mechanism sticking through the top of the 5200 controller, and tighten it down. There is no need to secure the 2600 paddle mechanism to the bottom of the controller, as the superglued "plates" and top washer&nut will hold it in place.
Put the two halves back together, test to make sure the paddle works, and then screw it together. Next, if you wnat the paddle to feel as good as arcade paddles, there is a little trick I use (on all paddles or driving controllers), turn the "dial" for the paddle over before attaching it to the paddle shaft, and put 8 5/8 inch lug nuts into the bottom, 2 in each quartered section. lay the dial down on a flat surface and push all the lug nuts to the center. Now find a candle or a hot glue gun (I use candle wax) and fill in the entire dial both inside and outside of the lugnuts, this will hold them in (once it cools or dries). Now you have a perfectly balanced and weighted dial to put on the paddle shaft! Doesn't it feel of arcade quality in your hand! When you do this with the driving controllers, they will actually "spin" just like arcade games like tempest! Now you have a very high quality feeling and looking 5200 paddle controller!!!
This is what I have done. I use exactly the same parts as the way on the 5200 faq, but with much better and easier results. The "jist" of the dumb way was to end up with both the 5200 controller and a 2600 paddle connected to each other, so that the paddle and it's button would work "through" the 5200 controller. This included making a whole on the side of your 5200 controller for the wires and actuall soldering wires to the controllers delicate, plastic sheet circuit board. You end up with a cumbersome "dual" controller, if you don't destroy something first.
With my design, the whole thing is housed in the 5200 controller, which seems to have been designed with paddles in mind. This thing LOOKS like pictures of the prototype 5200 paddles I've seen.
I took my spare 2600 paddle controller (not a driving controller), pulled the dial off the top, and unscrewed the "wafer" lug nut underneath. I then removed the two screws from the bottom of the paddle controller, opened it up, disconnected the wires from the paddle mechanism and removed the paddle mechanism. Keep the dial, washer&nut and paddle mechanism, you'll need them.
Next, I unscrewed the three screws from the bottom of my spare 5200 controller, popped out the guard over the start, pause and reset buttons and pulled out the rubber buttons. I then opened up the controller, don't worry about keeping the "paddle mechansims" (potometer?) aligned, you won't be using the stick again. I then removed both mechanisms from the lower half of the controller (you'll need to wedge a small screw driver under them and force them out, because they are glued in place). Pull the wires off the top mechanism, and set it aside, you won't need it. On the lower mechanism, remove the center wire and connect it to the center connection on the 2600 paddle mehansim (this can be done by soldering or twist-tying the wires, or by simply slipping them on if the connectors fit.) Now the second wire on the 5200 mechanism is on the RIGHT hand side, with the three connections facing the keypad, remove this wire and connect it to the LEFT hand connection on the 2600 mechanism, with it's connections facing the keypad.
Now comes what was the hard part for me; removing the joystick from the upper half of the controller case. I tried and tried and could not pull or twist this stick apart. I finally removed it by slicing a little square housing, that holds the stick in place, in half with an exacto-knife. Slipping the housing off, I removed the joystick. There are also two "plates," one black, the other white, that help in controlling the stick. I made sure these were centered with the upper casing and the hole that the joystick went through, then I super glued them in place. I then slipped the 2600 paddle mechanism up through the slots of the plates and the hole of the case. Now slip the washer and "wafer" lugnut from the 2600 paddle over the "new" 2600 mechanism sticking through the top of the 5200 controller, and tighten it down. There is no need to secure the 2600 paddle mechanism to the bottom of the controller, as the superglued "plates" and top washer&nut will hold it in place.
Put the two halves back together, test to make sure the paddle works, and then screw it together. Next, if you wnat the paddle to feel as good as arcade paddles, there is a little trick I use (on all paddles or driving controllers), turn the "dial" for the paddle over before attaching it to the paddle shaft, and put 8 5/8 inch lug nuts into the bottom, 2 in each quartered section. lay the dial down on a flat surface and push all the lug nuts to the center. Now find a candle or a hot glue gun (I use candle wax) and fill in the entire dial both inside and outside of the lugnuts, this will hold them in (once it cools or dries). Now you have a perfectly balanced and weighted dial to put on the paddle shaft! Doesn't it feel of arcade quality in your hand! When you do this with the driving controllers, they will actually "spin" just like arcade games like tempest! Now you have a very high quality feeling and looking 5200 paddle controller!!!
#2
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 1:58 AM
Wow, that was a great writeup, I may have to give this a try someday. If nothing else, I think I'll need to modify some paddle controllers with lugnuts..
Would you consider writing this up into more detailed instructions with perhaps some pictures? I've been neglecting the "5200 Archives" section here and this would make a great addition (especially with pictures).
..Al
Would you consider writing this up into more detailed instructions with perhaps some pictures? I've been neglecting the "5200 Archives" section here and this would make a great addition (especially with pictures).
..Al
#3
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 8:20 PM
Wow! That's great. I really wish I could rig up a paddle too, especially for Kaboom! and Super breakout! I'd need to get the parts first, and another 5200 stick. I hope to see some pictures, too.
#4
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 8:37 PM
My 5200 paddle is almost identical to yours. The only difference is that instead of super glueing the original 5200 stick guides as a support for the 2600 pot, mine has a couple of steel washers.
Time for a game of 5200 Kaboom!!
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
Time for a game of 5200 Kaboom!!
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
#5
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 9:17 PM
Yeah I found that the wahers work great too. I used two 3/8 stainless steel washers.
Also I found that if you 'trim' the connectors of the dial, you can slip the wires on. I liked this way because you can avoid using solder, and the connections are still very sturdy. Sidecutters (wirecutters?) work great for trimming the connectors on the dial.
I found that Pole Position, Space Invaders, Break Out, and of course Kaboom worked great with the paddle.
Anybody find anyother games that work with the paddle?
Also I found that if you 'trim' the connectors of the dial, you can slip the wires on. I liked this way because you can avoid using solder, and the connections are still very sturdy. Sidecutters (wirecutters?) work great for trimming the connectors on the dial.
I found that Pole Position, Space Invaders, Break Out, and of course Kaboom worked great with the paddle.
Anybody find anyother games that work with the paddle?
#6 ONLINE
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 9:23 PM
[indent]quote:
Originally posted by Albert:
Wow, that was a great writeup, I may have to give this a try someday. If nothing else, I think I'll need to modify some paddle controllers with lugnuts..
Would you consider writing this up into more detailed instructions with perhaps some pictures? I've been neglecting the "5200 Archives" section here and this would make a great addition (especially with pictures).
..Al
[/indent]
Sure, I'd be happy too. I can outline that and add some diagrams and photos if you want. It's really a quite simple operation. The 5200 controllers are perfect for this as they are just made up of two paddles "pots" anyway.
Originally posted by Albert:
Wow, that was a great writeup, I may have to give this a try someday. If nothing else, I think I'll need to modify some paddle controllers with lugnuts..
Would you consider writing this up into more detailed instructions with perhaps some pictures? I've been neglecting the "5200 Archives" section here and this would make a great addition (especially with pictures).
..Al
[/indent]
Sure, I'd be happy too. I can outline that and add some diagrams and photos if you want. It's really a quite simple operation. The 5200 controllers are perfect for this as they are just made up of two paddles "pots" anyway.
#7 ONLINE
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 9:35 PM
[indent]quote:
Originally posted by Mitch:
My 5200 paddle is almost identical to yours. The only difference is that instead of super glueing the original 5200 stick guides as a support for the 2600 pot, mine has a couple of steel washers.
Time for a game of 5200 Kaboom!!
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
[/indent]
That sounds like an excellent and durable way of attaching it (with the washers). Do the washers show at all though? How high does the shaft of the "pot" stick up? On mine, the paddle dial fits snuggly around the circle on the 5200 controller's top casing, just like the 2600 paddle. It really looks natural and professional as if Atari had actually released it.
Originally posted by Mitch:
My 5200 paddle is almost identical to yours. The only difference is that instead of super glueing the original 5200 stick guides as a support for the 2600 pot, mine has a couple of steel washers.
Time for a game of 5200 Kaboom!!
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
[/indent]
That sounds like an excellent and durable way of attaching it (with the washers). Do the washers show at all though? How high does the shaft of the "pot" stick up? On mine, the paddle dial fits snuggly around the circle on the 5200 controller's top casing, just like the 2600 paddle. It really looks natural and professional as if Atari had actually released it.
#8
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 10:21 PM
quoteQuote
Do the washers show at all though? How high does the shaft of the "pot" stick up?
No, you can't see the washers at all. At least not with the knob on it. It rides a little high, but mine still has part of the boot on it, so it looks fine.
BTW, I understand from Curt (who has one of the 5200 Proto paddles) that the proto uses a similar setup but has a piece of ABS plastic instead of the washers. So it sounds like it rides up the same as mine.
Cool idea about weighting the knob though, I'm going to have to try that.
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
#9
Posted Mon Jul 30, 2001 10:28 PM
[indent]quote:
Anybody find anyother games that work with the paddle?
[/indent]
Here's a link to the site of a guy that makes repro 5200 paddles. He has a list of 5200 paddle compatible games. http://personal.riverusers.com/~clghog/VOL...OLTMAN3pg3.html
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
Anybody find anyother games that work with the paddle?
[/indent]
Here's a link to the site of a guy that makes repro 5200 paddles. He has a list of 5200 paddle compatible games. http://personal.riverusers.com/~clghog/VOL...OLTMAN3pg3.html
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
#10
Posted Tue Jul 31, 2001 10:14 AM
quoteQuote
Sure, I'd be happy too. I can outline that and add some diagrams and photos if you want. It's really a quite simple operation. The 5200 controllers are perfect for this as they are just made up of two paddles "pots" anyway.
Great! Since this is a relatively easy mod and lots of people have broken 5200 controllers and working 2600 paddles, I'm sure many people will try it out. I know I will! Look forward to seeing the outline and pictures, and posting them here for everyone to see.
Thanks,
..Al
#11 ONLINE
Posted Tue Jul 31, 2001 10:17 AM
[indent]quote:
Originally posted by Mitch:
Here's a link to the site of a guy that makes repro 5200 paddles. He has a list of 5200 paddle compatible games. http://personal.riverusers.com/~clghog/VOL...OLTMAN3pg3.html
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
[/indent]
MY GOD!!! I can't believe that guy is charging 50 to 65 bucks to do this! My controller looks EXACTLY the same as his if you guys wanted to know, but it didn't cost me jack (except for two broken controllers-5200/paddle), and only about an hour of work, tops! Maybe I should charge for doing this and undercut this guy by about 50%!
Anyone interested? Send me a 5200 controller and 2600 paddle and I'll put it together for you for $25. With your choice of plastic plates or steal washers to hold the pot in place! Or just do it yourself as it's VERY easy, and save a bundle!!! By the way, if anyones interested, I can do a write up on modifying a Sega GENESIS controller to work with the 7800 (both buttons) and of course it will also work on everything else Atari&Commodore except the Jaguar and 5200.
I'm also planning on doing a y-cable interface for using a pc flightstick with the 5200 in the near future, as well as one for the Jaguar/w Battlesphere. I also have a custom paddle controller for Tempest 2000(Jag) and a custom Arcade stick for the Jag(a real MAAS arcade stick just like ones attached to the video cabinets of arcade games.) Although, Jaguar paddle projects are already documented, from putting a paddle on the jag controller, similiar to my 5200 controller mod, to making an entirely new controller, so I won't go there...The Arcade stick could get a personal write-up from me if anyone is interested, but it's hard to come by the components, VERY exspensive for the parts and a complicated modification that may be too much for the average "Joe."
Originally posted by Mitch:
Here's a link to the site of a guy that makes repro 5200 paddles. He has a list of 5200 paddle compatible games. http://personal.riverusers.com/~clghog/VOL...OLTMAN3pg3.html
Mitch
http://atari7800.atari.org
[/indent]
MY GOD!!! I can't believe that guy is charging 50 to 65 bucks to do this! My controller looks EXACTLY the same as his if you guys wanted to know, but it didn't cost me jack (except for two broken controllers-5200/paddle), and only about an hour of work, tops! Maybe I should charge for doing this and undercut this guy by about 50%!
Anyone interested? Send me a 5200 controller and 2600 paddle and I'll put it together for you for $25. With your choice of plastic plates or steal washers to hold the pot in place! Or just do it yourself as it's VERY easy, and save a bundle!!! By the way, if anyones interested, I can do a write up on modifying a Sega GENESIS controller to work with the 7800 (both buttons) and of course it will also work on everything else Atari&Commodore except the Jaguar and 5200.
I'm also planning on doing a y-cable interface for using a pc flightstick with the 5200 in the near future, as well as one for the Jaguar/w Battlesphere. I also have a custom paddle controller for Tempest 2000(Jag) and a custom Arcade stick for the Jag(a real MAAS arcade stick just like ones attached to the video cabinets of arcade games.) Although, Jaguar paddle projects are already documented, from putting a paddle on the jag controller, similiar to my 5200 controller mod, to making an entirely new controller, so I won't go there...The Arcade stick could get a personal write-up from me if anyone is interested, but it's hard to come by the components, VERY exspensive for the parts and a complicated modification that may be too much for the average "Joe."
#12
Posted Tue Jul 31, 2001 10:29 AM
quoteQuote
Here's a link to the site of a guy that makes repro 5200 paddles. He has a list of 5200 paddle compatible games. http://personal.riverusers.com/~clghog/VOL...OLTMAN3pg3.html
Cool, I just added this link to our 5200 links. I assume he still sells them as his price for Priority Mail shipping reflects the recent rate hike. I may need to add 5200 Paddles to the (very short) list of 5200 controllers and denote which games will work with them in the database. Hmmmm..
..Al
#13
Posted Tue Jul 31, 2001 10:36 AM
quoteQuote
By the way, if anyones interested, I can do a write up on modifying a Sega GENESIS controller to work with the 7800 (both buttons) and of course it will also work on everything else Atari&Commodore except the Jaguar and 5200.
I'm definitely interested in seeing this written up if it hasn't been done already (again, with pictures if possible). I can't stand the 7800 controllers and would love to be able to use an easily obtainable and much more comfortable Genesis controller instead. Maybe you could charge people for doing this mod as well.
quoteQuote
The Arcade stick could get a personal write-up from me if anyone is interested, but it's hard to come by the components, VERY exspensive for the parts and a complicated modification that may be too much for the average "Joe."
That would be nice if you had the time some day. Given some of the insane mods I've seen out there, I'm sure some people would attempt to make their own arcade stick, even if it is an expensive mod that takes some effort (and skill). I probably wouldn't build one, but I wouldn't be adverse to paying someone else to build one for me.
..Al
#14
Posted Fri Dec 5, 2003 12:54 PM
this is a great easy to follow mod! i just made myself a nice 5200 paddle in less than an hour. thanks so much for posting this, you're right this is much easier than the 5200 FAQ tech.
basically i have no technical skills, i cant even solder and i made this without much trouble.
here are a few tips for dummies i'll add for people in my leauge
*tools needed: go buy some super glue, phillups head screwdriver, toe nail clippers, small flathead screwdriver for prying, adjustable small wrench or some sort of device that will let you work the lug nut under the paddle (take a look at it now and choose your weapon)
*yeah you remove the rubber boot from the 5200 controller
*easy no solder no striping method of connecting the 5200 wires to the 2600 paddle device, use a pair of toenail clippers to cut off the end of the paddle wire tabs and then just slip the 5200 wire metal cuff end over the clipped tab.
*watch out for the start/reset/pause membrane, set it in place before you screw the paddle down. same goes for the keypad
* the 2600 paddle device sits between the two holes left by the 5200 devices, not inside one of them. until the lug nut grips tight you'll be convinced you're putting it together wrong.
*if you cant easily cut the plastic square anchoring the bottom of the joystick you can use your screw driver to "stretch" the hole wide enough to pop it off
mmm ok thats all the hints i can think of its that easy!
thanks again for the easy, awesome project!
yes i'm looking ahead to castle crisis...
basically i have no technical skills, i cant even solder and i made this without much trouble.
here are a few tips for dummies i'll add for people in my leauge
*tools needed: go buy some super glue, phillups head screwdriver, toe nail clippers, small flathead screwdriver for prying, adjustable small wrench or some sort of device that will let you work the lug nut under the paddle (take a look at it now and choose your weapon)
*yeah you remove the rubber boot from the 5200 controller
*easy no solder no striping method of connecting the 5200 wires to the 2600 paddle device, use a pair of toenail clippers to cut off the end of the paddle wire tabs and then just slip the 5200 wire metal cuff end over the clipped tab.
*watch out for the start/reset/pause membrane, set it in place before you screw the paddle down. same goes for the keypad
* the 2600 paddle device sits between the two holes left by the 5200 devices, not inside one of them. until the lug nut grips tight you'll be convinced you're putting it together wrong.
*if you cant easily cut the plastic square anchoring the bottom of the joystick you can use your screw driver to "stretch" the hole wide enough to pop it off
mmm ok thats all the hints i can think of its that easy!
thanks again for the easy, awesome project!
yes i'm looking ahead to castle crisis...
#15
Posted Fri Dec 5, 2003 6:47 PM
Nice mod Gunstar. I'm gonna link to this tread and any future documents
I got something at:
www94.pair.com/jsoper/7800_gen_adap.html
It's more geared towards a standalone adapter, but the same circuits will apply.
(Sorry for going off-topic)
Albert said:
quoteQuote
By the way, if anyones interested, I can do a write up on modifying a Sega GENESIS controller to work with the 7800 (both buttons) and of course it will also work on everything else Atari&Commodore except the Jaguar and 5200.
I'm definitely interested in seeing this written up if it hasn't been done already (again, with pictures if possible). I can't stand the 7800 controllers and would love to be able to use an easily obtainable and much more comfortable Genesis controller instead. ..Al
www94.pair.com/jsoper/7800_gen_adap.html
It's more geared towards a standalone adapter, but the same circuits will apply.
(Sorry for going off-topic)
#16
Posted Sun Dec 7, 2003 1:50 AM
Any drawback to using a driving controller with the various paddle games?
Will it work with the Tempest prototype? There is a possibility the
Digital Press guys will someday release their complete Tempest
project.
Will it work with the Tempest prototype? There is a possibility the
Digital Press guys will someday release their complete Tempest
project.
#17
Posted Sun Dec 7, 2003 2:31 AM
tyranthraxus said:
Any drawback to using a driving controller with the various paddle games?
I don't believe you can use a driving controller with paddle games. Paddles use a potentiometer to register a variable resistance withinin a fixed range. A driving controller would not be able to use this same principle since it does not have "stops".
..Al
#18
Posted Sun Dec 7, 2003 7:58 AM
tyranthraxus said:
Any drawback to using a driving controller with the various paddle games?
Driving Controller (digital) does not work with paddle (analog) games.
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
#19 ONLINE
Posted Fri Jan 2, 2004 8:31 PM
Well, I just built myself a nice Paddle controller thanks to this thread 
Only thing is I can't get the fire buttons to work with this old 5200 stick for nothing, it badly needs a new flex circuit, so I have to hook it up to my Competition Pro, and use the fire buttons on there to launch the ball in Super Breakout. I really want to mod a perfect working 5200 stick, so I can try out Galaxian with the Paddle, because I know Galaxian incorporates Analog control. And since its just left/right control, I think a Paddle might work good with Galaxian. Anyone wanna try it out and let us know?
Only thing is I can't get the fire buttons to work with this old 5200 stick for nothing, it badly needs a new flex circuit, so I have to hook it up to my Competition Pro, and use the fire buttons on there to launch the ball in Super Breakout. I really want to mod a perfect working 5200 stick, so I can try out Galaxian with the Paddle, because I know Galaxian incorporates Analog control. And since its just left/right control, I think a Paddle might work good with Galaxian. Anyone wanna try it out and let us know?
#20
Posted Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:51 PM
Yo, since Castle Crisis is out, this old thing ought to be bumped up. I built myself a badass paddle controller today with this walkthrough. I wasn't gonna do it initially, but the joystick suddenly became crippled, so I thought "aw, what the hell" and got to work on it. After I was done, I tested it out on Star Wars and it worked great. Once I put a new flex circuit and buttons in this baby, and glue some pennies in the knob like CPUWIZ did, I'll be all set for Castle Crisis.
This thread should totally be stickied, or slapped on the front page. It kicks ass.
This thread should totally be stickied, or slapped on the front page. It kicks ass.
#21
Posted Thu Mar 25, 2004 6:47 PM
Kurushimi said:
Yo, since Castle Crisis is out, this old thing ought to be bumped up. I built myself a badass paddle controller today with this walkthrough. I wasn't gonna do it initially, but the joystick suddenly became crippled, so I thought "aw, what the hell" and got to work on it. After I was done, I tested it out on Star Wars and it worked great. Once I put a new flex circuit and buttons in this baby, and glue some pennies in the knob like CPUWIZ did, I'll be all set for Castle Crisis.
This thread should totally be stickied, or slapped on the front page. It kicks ass.
This thread should totally be stickied, or slapped on the front page. It kicks ass.
While you're at it, check out CPU's WICO paddle controller:
http://www.atariage.com/forums/viewtopic.p...ighlight=paddle
#22
Posted Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:54 PM
For those of you who have the Wico splitter cable for the 5200 .. it is an easy thing to rewire an Atari paddle controller to work with this.
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
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