I have my eyes set on Galaga, Donkey Kong and a few others. I'd love to pick up my first one here, but I'll be the first to admit that I can play the heck out of these, but just don't know much about the inner workings.
Anyone know of a site that could give me the basics on what to look for when buying a used machine? Thank you.
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Going to an arcade auction tomorrow
Started by maibock, Dec 12 2003 7:59 AM
19 replies to this topic
#1 OFFLINE
maibock
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 7:59 AM
#2 OFFLINE
Room 34
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 8:16 AM
Good luck. Galaga is one of the highest-demand machines at auctions. Be prepared to pay a premium!
I don't know of any sites to help you, but here are a few tips I can share from my past auction experience:
1. Make sure the machine doesn't have pirate ROMs. This is particularly common with Galaga, where the title screen might actually say "GALLAG" or something else instead of Galaga. Look for the Namco 1981 copyright. There are a few other clues that I don't know off the top of my head.
2. Inspect the cabinet for damage. Look inside if you can to make sure it's not excessively filthy. (Look for rat's nests. I'm serious.) They have generally stopped letting people access the backs of the cabinets before the auction starts, because people were going inside and disconnecting things to make the game appear "dead" and thereby win a fully-functional machine for cheap.
3. Play the game before the auction starts, so you can make sure the controls work. Also check to see that there's not a lot of burn-in on the display, and that the colors are accurate. You can certainly replace a damaged CRT, but IMO it's better to get a machine with a good display already in it.
4. If the cam lock is still on the coin door or back door, be sure the key is included. I bought an Asteroids cocktail table at an auction, and it was opened up during the inspection period, but the seller didn't include the key after the auction! I eventually had to bust the lock and replace it.
That's all I can think of for now. Good luck and have fun! These auctions can be kind of hit-or-miss. Some I've been to were great... huge selection of great machines; and some sucked... nothing but lame games in bad condition. Here's hoping you'll get a good one!
I don't know of any sites to help you, but here are a few tips I can share from my past auction experience:
1. Make sure the machine doesn't have pirate ROMs. This is particularly common with Galaga, where the title screen might actually say "GALLAG" or something else instead of Galaga. Look for the Namco 1981 copyright. There are a few other clues that I don't know off the top of my head.
2. Inspect the cabinet for damage. Look inside if you can to make sure it's not excessively filthy. (Look for rat's nests. I'm serious.) They have generally stopped letting people access the backs of the cabinets before the auction starts, because people were going inside and disconnecting things to make the game appear "dead" and thereby win a fully-functional machine for cheap.
3. Play the game before the auction starts, so you can make sure the controls work. Also check to see that there's not a lot of burn-in on the display, and that the colors are accurate. You can certainly replace a damaged CRT, but IMO it's better to get a machine with a good display already in it.
4. If the cam lock is still on the coin door or back door, be sure the key is included. I bought an Asteroids cocktail table at an auction, and it was opened up during the inspection period, but the seller didn't include the key after the auction! I eventually had to bust the lock and replace it.
That's all I can think of for now. Good luck and have fun! These auctions can be kind of hit-or-miss. Some I've been to were great... huge selection of great machines; and some sucked... nothing but lame games in bad condition. Here's hoping you'll get a good one!
#3 OFFLINE
Ralph3
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 8:50 AM
I have been to about 15 arcade game auctions.
Take an extension cord!
Bring cash!! NO CHECKS!!!!! Credit cards are OK but sometimes they give cash discounts.
Bring some pain killers-You will be standing all day.
Maybe some earplugs because if they use a mobile loudspeaker, you could be standing in front of it quite often.
Expect to be there ALL day, depending on the auctioneer.
Expect the worse-a few games and too many people! Sucks for the purchaser, good for the seller.
Take an extension cord!
Bring cash!! NO CHECKS!!!!! Credit cards are OK but sometimes they give cash discounts.
Bring some pain killers-You will be standing all day.
Maybe some earplugs because if they use a mobile loudspeaker, you could be standing in front of it quite often.
Expect to be there ALL day, depending on the auctioneer.
Expect the worse-a few games and too many people! Sucks for the purchaser, good for the seller.
#4 OFFLINE
Room 34
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 9:14 AM
Good tip on the extension cord... I forgot all about that. Make sure it's a LONG extension cord and one with a grounding plug.
As for the cash thing, I don't know. I would never carry ~$1000 in cash on me, especially at a place like this. All of the auctions I've gone to were put on by Super Auctions, and I am not aware of any cash discount.
Also, beware sales tax and buyer's premium. You will end up paying ~20% above the closing price, all told.
As for the cash thing, I don't know. I would never carry ~$1000 in cash on me, especially at a place like this. All of the auctions I've gone to were put on by Super Auctions, and I am not aware of any cash discount.
Also, beware sales tax and buyer's premium. You will end up paying ~20% above the closing price, all told.
#5 OFFLINE
Cassidy Nolen
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 9:35 AM
Galaga PCB is a two part board. It stands in a metal cage on the right hand side (if viewed from the back). Dont buy it with a fake board; other bidders wont know its not real and the price will be high. 10 days before X-mas is NOT the time to get a super buy on a nice piece, but you may get lucky. Most auctions sell the classics first and the crap last. Dont be afraid to stick around for the crap. Bought a pac for 120 once that way.
Beware of Galaxians that are painted to be Galagas. You can tell because the cabinet is 'slightly' bigger than the Galaga. I know people will argue they aren't, but in a room of 100 machines, I can prove they are. Bottom line, if it ain't all legit, let it go....
HTH,
Cassidy
Beware of Galaxians that are painted to be Galagas. You can tell because the cabinet is 'slightly' bigger than the Galaga. I know people will argue they aren't, but in a room of 100 machines, I can prove they are. Bottom line, if it ain't all legit, let it go....
HTH,
Cassidy
#6 OFFLINE
goatdan
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:24 AM
I was in the same position as you a few years ago, and I ended up with two utterly f-ed games that took a ton of money and time to repair.
Since then, I've been to a bunch of other auctions both for myself and for an arcade I worked for. Here are my tips:
Spend tomorrow looking around, but don't plan on buying anything. Auctions that are held in December always have games sell for nearly double what they are worth because of the holiday season. I'm assuming you are going to the SuperAuctions auction in Dallas, and I'm sure that it will be no different than the auction that I'll probably be stopping at on the 17th in Milwaukee. I've seen games in Milwaukee sell for $200 in December, and the same type of games sell in February for $50.
Games are best to buy when there is more than one of the same title at an auction. The first game will usually go cheaper, as everyone else just plans on bidding on the next machine.
You said that you don't know too much about the inner workings of the machines. Here's a huge tip that would have greatly helped me out with my first games -- if you see something that looks easy to fix, it isn't. One of my games had a monitor that was slightly screwed up, and there was no way to fix it unless I wanted to pay $200+ for a new monitor. I bought a pinball that looked like it just needed some new plastic parts and a couple drop targets, as well as some care for the cabinet. While I've fixed up the rest of the game, I still haven't found plastics for it and the cabinet's water damage is horrible and not something I'll be able to easily fix. I fell in love with the pinball, so it's all good
Lastly, set a limit for yourself on how much you are willing to pay for a game. Going to auctions is fun, but I've seen many other people overpay for a machine that they end up not wanting. They end up putting it back in the auction at the end and get about 1/2 of what they paid for it. Personally, I write down the games I am interested in a notebook and the amount I am willing to pay for them. I'll let others start the bidding until the amount is close to what I'm willing to pay or until the bidding winds down, and then I'll bid up to my limit. If the game's price exceeds that, I stop myself and wait for the next machine -- or auction to try to get a good find at.
I'd suggest subscribing to GameRoom Magazine and the PinGame Journal (PinGame only if you are interested in pinball) as both magazines are great resources for the hobby. Once you've learned more about the machines, you can get pretty lucky sometimes. I snagged an-almost working Bad Dudes JAMMA cabinet at a SuperAuctions not too long ago for $5.00 and was able to fix it and make it work for another $15.00. With a little bit of sleuth work, there are more deals just like that to be found!
Since then, I've been to a bunch of other auctions both for myself and for an arcade I worked for. Here are my tips:
Spend tomorrow looking around, but don't plan on buying anything. Auctions that are held in December always have games sell for nearly double what they are worth because of the holiday season. I'm assuming you are going to the SuperAuctions auction in Dallas, and I'm sure that it will be no different than the auction that I'll probably be stopping at on the 17th in Milwaukee. I've seen games in Milwaukee sell for $200 in December, and the same type of games sell in February for $50.
Games are best to buy when there is more than one of the same title at an auction. The first game will usually go cheaper, as everyone else just plans on bidding on the next machine.
You said that you don't know too much about the inner workings of the machines. Here's a huge tip that would have greatly helped me out with my first games -- if you see something that looks easy to fix, it isn't. One of my games had a monitor that was slightly screwed up, and there was no way to fix it unless I wanted to pay $200+ for a new monitor. I bought a pinball that looked like it just needed some new plastic parts and a couple drop targets, as well as some care for the cabinet. While I've fixed up the rest of the game, I still haven't found plastics for it and the cabinet's water damage is horrible and not something I'll be able to easily fix. I fell in love with the pinball, so it's all good
Lastly, set a limit for yourself on how much you are willing to pay for a game. Going to auctions is fun, but I've seen many other people overpay for a machine that they end up not wanting. They end up putting it back in the auction at the end and get about 1/2 of what they paid for it. Personally, I write down the games I am interested in a notebook and the amount I am willing to pay for them. I'll let others start the bidding until the amount is close to what I'm willing to pay or until the bidding winds down, and then I'll bid up to my limit. If the game's price exceeds that, I stop myself and wait for the next machine -- or auction to try to get a good find at.
I'd suggest subscribing to GameRoom Magazine and the PinGame Journal (PinGame only if you are interested in pinball) as both magazines are great resources for the hobby. Once you've learned more about the machines, you can get pretty lucky sometimes. I snagged an-almost working Bad Dudes JAMMA cabinet at a SuperAuctions not too long ago for $5.00 and was able to fix it and make it work for another $15.00. With a little bit of sleuth work, there are more deals just like that to be found!
#7 OFFLINE
goatdan
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:28 AM
Room 34 said:
As for the cash thing, I don't know. I would never carry ~$1000 in cash on me, especially at a place like this. All of the auctions I've gone to were put on by Super Auctions, and I am not aware of any cash discount.
Back in 2000 and into 2001, Super Auctions gave a 5% discount if things were purchased in cash. Since then, I don't think they've done that.
Quote
Also, beware sales tax and buyer's premium. You will end up paying ~20% above the closing price, all told.
Ah, I forgot about this and it's super important...
When I determine the price I'll pay for something, I always factor in the tax and premium before I bid. Even my $5.00 Bad Dudes cabinet had a $1.00 buyer's premium, so if you are getting a game like Galaga or Donkey Kong that commands much higher prices, you'll end up paying $100 or more in sales tax / premium.
#8 OFFLINE
Room 34
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:28 AM
goatdan said:
I've seen games in Milwaukee sell for $200 in December, and the same type of games sell in February for $50.
At all of the Super Auctions auctions I've been to in Atlanta, even the thrashed, non-functional machines usually go for at least $150!
#9 OFFLINE
goatdan
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:32 AM
Room 34 said:
goatdan said:
I've seen games in Milwaukee sell for $200 in December, and the same type of games sell in February for $50.
At all of the Super Auctions auctions I've been to in Atlanta, even the thrashed, non-functional machines usually go for at least $150!
Holy crap (literally!) The most I've seen non-functional games in Milwaukee sell for is $50.00, and that was for a mint condition Spy Hunter cabinet.
The $5.00 Bad Dudes that I bought was one of the more expensive non-working games at the auction I went too. All the others sold for one or two bucks. I got lucky though, as the auctioneer just wanted to get the auction over with or I think I would've paid about $25.00 for that game. That was the same auction that I saw tons of mint JAMMA games walk out of at $50.00 apiece though...
Milwaukee is generally a good place to get arcade games at
#10 OFFLINE
maibock
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:50 AM
Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice!
#11 OFFLINE
maibock
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:51 AM
Room 34 said:
1. Make sure the machine doesn't have pirate ROMs. This is particularly common with Galaga, where the title screen might actually say "GALLAG" or something else instead of Galaga. Look for the Namco 1981 copyright. There are a few other clues that I don't know off the top of my head.
Ding! wow and here I thought "Gallaga" was a typo on their sheet - I'll definitely check this out when I see it. Thanks, man
#12 OFFLINE
Room 34
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:53 AM
Just a correction to what I said... I believe legit Galaga ROMs may say either Namco or Midway in the copyright line on the title screen, depending on where the machine was intended to be used.
#13 OFFLINE
NE146
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#14 OFFLINE
goatdan
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 12:04 PM
Read through that article NE1...
I must be really luck in Milwaukee. Not just are the games cheap, but the auctions are held at State Fair Park and pretty much every game is plugged in and powered up before they are sold. I've never brought my own extension cord, and I've always been able to play pretty much any game I wanted to.
I must be really luck in Milwaukee. Not just are the games cheap, but the auctions are held at State Fair Park and pretty much every game is plugged in and powered up before they are sold. I've never brought my own extension cord, and I've always been able to play pretty much any game I wanted to.
#15 OFFLINE
Room 34
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 12:23 PM
Well now that I'm moving back to Minneapolis, I'm going to have to come down and hit those Milwaukee auctions!
#16 OFFLINE
tyranthraxus
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 2:26 PM
How do you find out about these auctions? I can't really store one in my
place (but I would happily sub my coffee table for a coctail cabinet)
but it sounds like it would be fun to watch for a bit and at the least
check out some games in the preview time.
place (but I would happily sub my coffee table for a coctail cabinet)
but it sounds like it would be fun to watch for a bit and at the least
check out some games in the preview time.
#17 OFFLINE
Room 34
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 3:08 PM
The only company I know of that does the auctions is Super Auctions, and I check the schedule on their website:
http://www.superauctions.com
http://www.superauctions.com
#18 OFFLINE
goatdan
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Posted Fri Dec 12, 2003 9:46 PM
There is also US Amusement Auctions and a few others that do them. You can find out when they are by checking out their Web sites (don't remember the USAA one offhand) or by subscribing to a magazine like GameRoom, PinGame Journal or Replay. The first two are the hobbiest ones, and Replay is the actual "route-owners" one and they are priced accordingly.
#19 OFFLINE
maibock
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Posted Sun Dec 14, 2003 4:59 PM
Well, I came back empty handed, but a wealth of information was stored in my head. The turnout was a LOT more than I or even the auction people expected. Just about every item seemed to go much higher than I anticipated. Not sure if it was the auction or perhaps my assessments were off, but a beat up Ms Pacman went for $1,200.
Both Galagas went for $900 each and the cabinets were in bad shape(very worn with cigarrette burn marks). I don't recall anything going less than $400.
I pretty much convinced myself that perhaps going with a Mame cabinet might not be a bad idea for a first purchase and then get the cabinets I want as they come along.
Thanks again for the info.
Both Galagas went for $900 each and the cabinets were in bad shape(very worn with cigarrette burn marks). I don't recall anything going less than $400.
I pretty much convinced myself that perhaps going with a Mame cabinet might not be a bad idea for a first purchase and then get the cabinets I want as they come along.
Thanks again for the info.
#20 OFFLINE
sebastius
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Posted Sun Dec 14, 2003 6:24 PM
What i'd do (actually, what i'm doing right now) is get a simple Jamma cabinet. It can be butt ugly, as long as it has a working monitor in it, and the usual power supply and joysticks. Thats a good starting point. A big beautiful Arcade monitor, preferably with a mount that's rotatable (for horizontal and vertical games). I got my monitor with frame and power supply for free from someone who was making a MAME cabinet, but with a big 21" SVGA monitor. I now have the monitor standing on a bare frame on my desk. I made a Jamma harness and some other things and it's playable!
Then score some cheap but good jamma games, or some older, if you are cool with making your own conversion harness (so you can wire a pacman to jamma). I personally prefer shooter type of games, so i got a few of those off ebay, and i got bummed by someone with a bunch of broken games before that.
But the broken games are games that I might be able to fix, and I enjoy fixing stuff. But if electronics are not your thing, just get working ones.
Then score some cheap but good jamma games, or some older, if you are cool with making your own conversion harness (so you can wire a pacman to jamma). I personally prefer shooter type of games, so i got a few of those off ebay, and i got bummed by someone with a bunch of broken games before that.
But the broken games are games that I might be able to fix, and I enjoy fixing stuff. But if electronics are not your thing, just get working ones.
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