6 replies to this topic

[ussexplorer]

Well my friend is still working on his ElectroHome G07. He did a cap kit and we have been looking over tons of information including checking to see if caps that installed wrong at the factory was corrected. We also jumped the proper V&H signals and he tried two jamma compatible pcb. He still cannot get the game to sync up. He even purchased another broken pcb board in order to get additional parts off of it but no luck. If you have anything out of the ordinary to try. He would be very happy to get this critter to sink up.


Also I was thinking abotu new game and cheap hardware. Take for instance the PS/2. Seems to me a system involving this technology is out their. So why not make a fancy cut down version of a game. Then put it in the arcade. If people like it. Then they could purchsae say a full blown version or version II of the game. THen when that game comes old the arcade own flips open the back and puts in another CD. Maybe to the point that he can get cds on a regular basis to change out. So each month you go into an arcade. You would be greated a simple hint of what is to come or be released. I know I would hit the arcade more if the new selections changed once in a while. Then again I hit the arcade for the old favorites. I picture in my vision a room full of games all looking the same and the only difference was the marquee' and the game itself. When I asked what it is the game manager says he just changes the marquee and the cd and boom. new game. The cabinets would be generic configuration with typical design. Even so if the arcade manager wnated to paint them or something they could.

Laters,

ussexplorer

[Ralph3]

ussexplorer said:

Also I was thinking abotu new game and cheap hardware. Take for instance the PS/2. Seems to me a system involving this technology is out their. So why not make a fancy cut down version of a game. Then put it in the arcade. If people like it. Then they could purchsae say a full blown version or version II of the game. THen when that game comes old the arcade own flips open the back and puts in another CD. Maybe to the point that he can get cds on a regular basis to change out. So each month you go into an arcade. You would be greated a simple hint of what is to come or be released. I know I would hit the arcade more if the new selections changed once in a while. Then again I hit the arcade for the old favorites. I picture in my vision a room full of games all looking the same and the only difference was the marquee' and the game itself. When I asked what it is the game manager says he just changes the marquee and the cd and boom. new game. The cabinets would be generic configuration with typical design. Even so if the arcade manager wnated to paint them or something they could.  

Laters,

ussexplorer

There are a couple arcade systems like that.
Neo Geo MVS which uses carts.
Sega has a few-STV (if I remember correctly) uses carts. Naomi which uses a modified Dreamcast system.
The Soul Blade/Edge/early Tekkens uses a modified PlayStation system (but not able to use new games, no replaceable media-Cart/CD)
Back in the early 80's there was a system called Decca that used a cassette to change the programs. It loaded into memory every time the system was turned on. You would have to wait like 5 minutes for the game to boot up. The first versios of BurgerTime and Bump 'n Jump were on this system.
There are a couple others out there that do this.

[Cassidy Nolen]

Quote

He did a cap kit and we have been looking over tons of information including checking to see if caps that installed wrong at the factory was corrected.

If you are talking about the one that is on the edge of the board, its the silk screening that is wrong. Do NOT change any polarity on caps. If they have worked that way for 20+ years, do not change them around (of course change the caps, not the direction). It is well documented that there is an error on the chassis.

As for your sync, I have seen it a few times on G07. I had a Gyruss I sold off for dirt money because of this. There is a cap that you can install in line (IIRC) to fix it. Randy Fromm has it as a tech tip, or you might search around the Star Tech Journal site for it.

HTH,
Cassidy

[ussexplorer]

He says both the horizontal and vertical is out. So it goes right/left and up/down. Well you know scrolls. So I have no idea what is up. Any other ideas?

later,

ussexplorer

[Cassidy Nolen]

Try just one of the sync inputs...

Combine the wires and put them to just one of the two terminals..

Try it, cant hurt, right?

Cassidy

[ussexplorer]

We tried that. We tried all the common things we could find. Weve been to most places and I didn't realize it. But I was already to those two places you was so kind to list out. I did dig up some mroe info but still no help. I keep wondering what could be causing a monitor to do that. But since I"m not their in person to look for the obious this gets kicked from me to him back to me.

still thanks for the help,

ussexplorer

I did have one question of my own. If I ever get an arcade monitor I noitced that it can be powered via a standard 110v providing it is not some strange one that takes like 24v dc. Well I notice they say something like use and isolation transformer. I assume this is because the monitor does not have it built in? Is this for all monitors. The reason I'm asking is if I ever pickup a machine with a dead power supply and it is newer. I know you can use a at power supply in it. The lights for the sign is normall standard 110v and the coin door is 6 or 12 depending but I found you could use 6 with the +5. So now that I got most of this figured out. The question with the monitor remains.

[Cassidy Nolen]

You sync input problem sounds to me like you have it hooked in the wrong spots (maybe no ground signal or swapped a sync for ground? I know you covered the basics, worth checking again). If its rolling both ways, something is in the wrong spot, or there is a problem in the sync circuit. Check for cold solder joints on the pins, and maybe look for a broken trace near the adjustment pots. I have seen both. I have also seen G07's get grumpy. At that point, sell the monitor and get a new one off the net for 150 bucks (thats always my final problem solver!).

Have to run an isolation transformer on any monitor that does not have one on board (ie, most of the golden era classic monitors). If you don't you can blow the power supply section of the monitor. Iso trans can be had (you need a 1:1 ratio one, btw) from sites like www.therealbobroberts.com
New ones and funny enough, old ones have them onboard, so you can run straight line voltage.

As for the power supply question, you are not 'supposed' to run bulbs off of the 5V. I have done it off of the 12V (that is for audio, and is a bit heartier of a current flow), but not the 5. It really should be 5 and -5 dedicated to the pcb. Remember, if the game says it needs -5, use it. Games that use the video memory like Space Invaders (cant recall the part number) need that input or it will cook them. Most games that need it just wont work. Look at your schematics before jumping in.

Cassidy