Optical Rotary Controller Project (Completed)

[awace]

DROOOL AS THAT WOULD MAKE A EXELENT Arkanoid controler for my arkanoid arcade pcb and there is already a hole in my data east cabinet w a notch in ring hole for mounting sutch device..... I was using a wico arcade birdie king trackball then found out when i ripped the Atari black trackball that the berings were not the same size boo hoo but i did steal the black ball and swap it w the white wico one and both seem to work great now..

looks like you did a good job..

Question are you going to need the charactor generator sony thingie cause I would like to know if the key switches are indvidual as my data east cabinet's start buttons are single keybaord buttons... and i need 2 of them if not no biggie .. since the spinner you took from the sony is exaclty wired like i thought it was red 5v+ black gnd and up down or left right depending on how you use it... you could if you needed use a crappy old mouse scroll opto to use on sony if you ever needed to use it I seem to think you only wanted it for the spinner ...?

[awace]

hmm double hmm on the actual wheel readers there are three led type thingies one is a infra red transmiter like on remote control on youre tv remote witch takes 5v dc the other 2 are receiver leds ok not led's but ir receiver and ir transmiter

.. i dont know the names of the led type things but i do know for my arcade birdie KING II it says joystick inputs whell its trackball inputs and for a game like tempest I could see the problem might lie in that those happ controls ones you see on ebay for $70 are gear reduction ones witch go super fast at the opto wheel witch might be why covering holes w black stuff pruduces faster pulses but less of them so i assume if you can remove black stuff it would mean its reversable??

is this making sence or am i rambling again.

[im_reg]

Any chance of a video of this device in action?

[awace]

Any chance of a video of this device in action?

I could make one using the MR do cabinet w converted thumb mouse but would have to change a fake jamma connector.

if you really want a video I will have to hook up the wico control ill just take a picture of that since i think its still connected to arkanoid pcb

i have since forgot about it I dont have $70 for a happ controls REAL spinner w gear reduction and purple/black custom hard coated knob

ewwww cooool mabie a chrome one!

[awace]

Any chance of a video of this device in action?

I could make one using the MR do cabinet w converted thumb mouse but would have to change a fake jamma connector.

if you really want a video I will have to hook up the wico control ill just take a picture of that since i think its still connected to arkanoid pcb

i have since forgot about it I dont have $70 for a happ controls REAL spinner w gear reduction and purple/black custom hard coated knob

ewwww cooool mabie a chrome one!

completeed?? u have video of youre cabinet?

ill take a picture of mine now i want to play Bk birdie king II anyway!!! brb have to change out power supply .

ohhh crap 1st mabie I should take before pictures of power supply and huge MIDWAY transformer im going to

scrap for copper! then i can take pics of control panel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...bayphotohosting

try that you would like it the red wire gets 5v the black goes to GND and there is up down left right ok each roller has a up down or left right infre red recive led for each direction and one transmiter 5v+ that opto hole sees.

[RARusk]

I don't have a video camera so I can't do anything for YouTube.

 

However, even though this thing works very good, it still has some imperfections.

 

Because of how you hook up the signals you won't be able to change camera angles. You will always have the camera zoomed on you as you move around the playfield. There are some playfields that you may want to zoom out to see everything but you cannot do that with an optical encoder.

 

Another imperfection is that it interferes with the second joypad (in port two) while doing the warp levels. You can go right, up, and down but not left. And you can't rotate the letters around when you get a high score (but you can rotate them with the second joypad in port two).

 

I do believe that this is a solvable solution but I need to do some research and ask the right questions to the right people.

[awace]

I don't have a video camera so I can't do anything for YouTube.

 

However, even though this thing works very good, it still has some imperfections.

 

Because of how you hook up the signals you won't be able to change camera angles. You will always have the camera zoomed on you as you move around the playfield. There are some playfields that you may want to zoom out to see everything but you cannot do that with an optical encoder.

 

Another imperfection is that it interferes with the second joypad (in port two) while doing the warp levels. You can go right, up, and down but not left. And you can't rotate the letters around when you get a high score (but you can rotate them with the second joypad in port two).

 

I do believe that this is a solvable solution but I need to do some research and ask the right questions to the right people.

i wonder if the Atari trak ball in joystick mode would produce inputs for joystick mode?? or something useable in trakball mode??

[Zerosquare]

Re: R.A.Rusk's other topic.

 

Here's a circuit I've drawn to allow you the use of either an optical rotary encoder or the standard D-pad, without interference, by toggling a switch.

I've not tested it, but it should work fine in theory.

 

It should be installed inside a standard controller, since it uses signals both from the joypad wires and from the 74HC244 IC that's inside the controller.

If the encoder works backwards, swap its two output wires.

A mechanical encoder can be used as well if you add a 10 kOhms resistor to Vcc on each of its outputs.

 

Parts list :

- 74LS03 (or SN74LS03, etc.) IC

- 14-way "tulip" DIP socket (not required, but recommended)

- 100 nF ceramic capacitor, 6.3 volts voltage or higher

- 10 kOhms resistor

- SPDT switch

- wires, of course

Edited August 8, 2009 by Zerosquare

[Tyrant]

Here's a circuit I've drawn to allow you the use of either an optical rotary encoder or the standard D-pad, without interference, by toggling a switch.

I've not tested it, but it should work fine in theory.

Why not simply use a dpdt switch? The two centre pins going to the internal "left" and "right" traces, with the switch toggling between routing them back to the original d-pad contacts or to the rotary contacts? It would work just fine on the encoders I use, which are mechanical ones with 3 legs (left, right, common).

[Zerosquare]

Because it is intended for optical encoders, and using just a switch won't work in this case.

 

Mechanical encoders outputs are either open or connected the common pin, just like real push-buttons, so they can be connected directly.

Optical encoders outputs are either 0 volts or 5 volts ; they require additional logic to be compatible with the wiring scheme used in the Jag controllers.

[Tyrant]

Having given the matter some thought I see that you have a very good point, I stand corrected.

[+Stephen Moss]

Re: R.A.Rusk's other topic.

 

Here's a circuit I've drawn to allow you the use of either an optical rotary encoder or the standard D-pad, without interference, by toggling a switch.

I've not tested it, but it should work fine in theory.

I see what you are trying to do, when the switch is to GND the outputs of the NAND gates can only be high effectively disabling the Rotary encoder and the outputs from the D-Pad are in control, then when connected to the output of the NAND gate (Pin 3) the NAND gates connected to the Rotary are enabled and their outputs (ie the rotary controller data) is in control, however unless those NAND gate are not actaully NAND gate I think you have something wrong...

 

1) Everything on the JagPad is active low, but you need to invert that for J0 to strobe the encoder outputs. With one of the inputs of the left hand NAND gate (Pin 2) apparently tied Low you will only ever get a High out of it regardless of the state of the row strobe line on Joypad pin #4 (J0).

 

00 = 1

01 = 1

10 = 1

11 = 0

 

So I think you either need to tie 74LS03, Pin 2 High or tie it to Pin 1 to invert the J0 signal which is what I think you were trying to do

 

2)

Personally I would AND the outputs (Pins 8 and 11 of the 74LS03) with those of the JadPad before connecting them the the inputs of the 74HC244 or at least place some resistors between them otherwise there is nothing to limit the current draw from the outputs of the 74LS03 when the JagPads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, L or R buttons are pressed.

 

Because it is intended for optical encoders, and using just a switch won't work in this case.

 

Mechanical encoders outputs are either open or connected the common pin, just like real push-buttons, so they can be connected directly.

Optical encoders outputs are either 0 volts or 5 volts ; they require additional logic to be compatible with the wiring scheme used in the Jag controllers.

I guess it depends on how the outputs from optical encode are derived but in theory it should work.

If you cut the tack between the D-Pads L/R buttons and their associated diodes and take them to one throw of the switch while connecting the other throw of the switch to the outputs from the Optical encoder and the poles of the switch to the Cathodes of the diodes for the L/R buttons then it should work. When the output from the rotary is 5 volts the diodes do not conduct and pins 6 and 8 of the 74HC244 are pulled high by the Jagpads internal resistors and when the outputs from the optical encoder are low the diodes conduct and pins 6 and 8 of the 74HC24 are pulled low just as they would with a switch provided that the low output from the optical encoder can sink a couple of milliamps of current.

[Zerosquare]

The 74LS03 is four NAND gates with open-collectors outputs, i.e. :

output state is 0 -> output is pulled to 0 volt

output state is 1 -> output is high-impedance

 

Check the schematic again with that in mind

[+Stephen Moss]

The 74LS03 is four NAND gates with open-collectors outputs, i.e. :

output state is 0 -> output is pulled to 0 volt

output state is 1 -> output is high-impedance

 

Check the schematic again with that in mind

Ok, I did not check that so my second point is mute but that does not change the fact that the logic for the front end is wrong, open collector or not you still neeed two 1's in to get a zero out.

[Zerosquare]

Sorry, I did not read your previous post correctly. You're right. I must have been half-asleep that day...

 

Here's the corrected schematic :