doubledown

Please don't misunderstand...as I have already/previously built, Robotron: 2084 controllers...for the 7800/8-bit: and the ColecoVision: ...which also work for the 2600...I didn't need to build a "new" controller for RobotWar: 2684. 😉

Finally a reason for me to build a twin stick controller for a 2600 game: Well done @johnnywc and team. Excited for the full release.

My current fav!

A fellow AA member contacted me about building him a 2-button, 2600 version (Joy2B+ / Genesis compatible), ERGO² controller, so here's that: We opted for an orange iL shaft cover / dust washer, and an orange Sanwa LB-35 ball knob...along with Sanwa OBSF-24 black pushbutton bodies, with orange A.S. Classic Concave Caps...which I feel looks pretty snazzy. iL also makes these shaft covers / dust washers in a few other colors too: In addition to black, red, orange, green, and blue...they are also made in yellow and purple. But at the time of my order, the manufacturer (iL) didn't have them in stock, so I would have had to order their minimum order quantities, of either 50 or 100 of each, versus the (10) of each, that I did order, of the colors that they had in stock. I really want the yellow ones (favorite color of mine, and would looks great for a Pac-man theme), so maybe I'll bite the bullet and get them at some point, who knows. Speaking of colors, here are all of the colors that the Sanwa OBSF-24 pushbuttons and A.S. Classic Concave Caps are available in: The transparent/clear colors are at the top half, and the solid colors are bottom half...all can be mixed and matched, and matching ball knobs are available for all of the solid colors, and sometimes available for the transparent/clear colors.

I wouldn't consider/worry about a 3d printed enclosure, as there are plenty of manufacturer molded ABS enclosures, large enough for a joystick and 3 buttons, in the $10 - $20 range. Depending on the filament used to 3d print something (type/brand/quality), you could be in the same price range to have one printed (vs. purchased)...and then, well it's going to look like it was "3d printed"...and no where near as pretty as a molded enclosure. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder. To my knowledge, there were no contemporary ports of Defender that allowed for an "arcade-accurate" control scheme...obviously, due to most controllers not having enough buttons. But even when enough buttons were present (ColecoVision for example), the ship movement control is still different from the arcade version. On the arcade cabinets, the joystick was a 2-way vertical joystick...controlling your ship's movement Up & Down...only. There was then a "Thrust" button which would propel you forward (in the direction you were facing), and a "Reverse" button, which would flip the direction that you were facing, so that you could fly the other direction. Every contemporary port simply used an 8-way joystick to combine the control of your vertical and horizontal movements. It wasn't until I think the N64 / PS1 era of arcade compilation games, that a home port finally allowed for a proper control scheme...albeit with whatever N64 or PS1 controller you were using. Years ago I built a Defender - Experience Controller for the ColecoVision: ...but since even the ColecoVision didn't use "Trust" and "Reverse" buttons, I installed 2 buttons as "Thrust Left" and "Thrust Right," and a 2-way vertical joystick, as a compromise to accommodate for how the game was programmed...which I have no way to modify. If a controller was built to play @PacManPlus's version of Defender, with a joystick, and 3 buttons, such that: Plugged into the left Joystick Port 8-way Joystick (wired as Joystick) 1 Button - ("Fire" for firing) & Plugged into the right Joystick Port 1 Button ("Fire" for Smart Bomb) 1 Button (Joystick Down for HyperSpace) ...would yield a controller, that in addition to working for this version Defender, it would also work for every 2600 joystick game as well...as it would have a joystick and the necessary 1 button to play almost all of them...plus 2 additional buttons that just wouldn't be used for "normal" 2600 games. All of which could be built into an enclosure as small as 6.75" x 5", like this: ...or as large as 20" x 11.25" (like my Defender - Experience Controller above)...or anything in between. There are plenty of different sizes of manufactured enclosures available: I believe, there is a 3-button Defender hack for the Atari 8-bits, using the full 3-button Joy2b+ wiring spec, which allows for exactly all of this with 1 controller cable plugged into only 1 controller port. But obviously that version would require a controller wired for Joy2b+, where in a 2 controller version, as is being discussed here, can be played with 2 "standard" unmodified joysticks...although you would probably need 2 people playing cooperatively to enjoy it, (or a special controller). But yes anything is possible, and it would be very easy.

You would also need to power a track-ball for use on the Intellivision...as there is no power at the controller ports (those with them), like the Ataris had. I think one of the WICO track-balls...for the Odyssey² or TI-99/4A...or something, had a battery compartment, as the console it was made for, didn't provide power at the controller ports either.

Enjoy it...and I see what you did there with the "baby"...well played sir!

There was the Nyko Classic TrackBall for the PS1...don't know if it would work with Intelilvision Lives! on the PS2 or not.

Doesn't the original 7800 port of Galaga allow for two players?

As I had previously said, 1-button 7800 games, such as Donkey Kong, and Donkey Kong Jr., on the 7800, play just fine with the CX-40 natively.

So just tested...here are the results: Plugging CX-40 directly into 7800 controller port The utility cart test program, sees the CX-40's "Fire" button, as the 7800 Left Fire button...obviously no right fire button possible, as the CX-40 only has one button...but this makes multi-cart menu navigation possible But, when trying to play any 7800 2-button game (I tested Commando and One-On-One) the console sees no button at all...neither the Left or the Right...only joystick movements When Plugging CX-40 into Mega 7800 Controller Adapter, and it in turn into 7800 controller port The utility cart test program, sees the CX-40's "Fire" button, as the 7800 Left Fire button...obviously no right fire button possible, as the CX-40 only has one button (same as without) But now, when trying to play any 7800 2-button game (I tested Command and One-On-One) the console sees the CX-40's "Fire" button, as the 7800 Left Fire button...obviously no right fire button possible, as the CX-40 only has one button So One-On-One can be played with a CX-40 with this setup, you just can't call a time-out. Commando can also kind of be played...you just can't throw grenades. You learn something new every day!

Could be possible. I may have only ever tried a CX40 on 1-button 7800 games (in which case, normally either 7800 button can perform the "1 button's action), and Xevious, which auto detects a 1 button joystick, and shoots and drops bombs simultaneously with the 1 button. I'd have to try it out tonight to see if a CX40's button acts as the 7800's Left button, or the Right button.

Well a CX40 would only have 1 button, which can be used natively on a 7800, to play 1-button 7800 games (not 2 button games, as it doesn't have a 2nd button)...I don't think you would need an adapter for it at all...unless I'm misunderstanding something.

I find Kaboom to be one of the best tests for lag. You don't even need to truly play, just spin the paddle control between rounds and watch the response of your buckets. If you spin the knob one way quickly then stop before they would hit the side of the screen, your buckets should also stop as soon as you stop turning the paddle knob. If they continue to move on screen for a bit a after you've stopped physically turning the knob, then there is some lag.

It is very cool to see new things being developed...or at least prototyped at this phase. I personally have never had any issues with original (assuming functional) CX-40s, I've been using them for more than 40+ years now, and still use one to this day occasionally. I haven't yet had a chance to try out the CX40+...still new in the box...I'm sure I'll open it at some point. I am certain a microswitch variant would be greatly appreciated by those who adore their "clicky" joysticks. So long as the microswitches require a reasonably low operating force, I'm sure it would be a hit, and a big seller.