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MiniMan, on Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:58 AM, said:
Thank you both so much! There's enough checking there to keep me quiet for the weekend 
I'll have a good poke around and let you know the outcome.
Thanks again,
M
I'll have a good poke around and let you know the outcome.Thanks again,
M
Hi there, apologies for resurrecting this post, but I received an email from a chap in the same situation as me and suddenly realised I'd never given closure on the issue. As such, here's the content of my response for future searchers
"I can't believe that was nearly 2 years ago! Since the birth of our son, all of this has fallen by the wayside a bit.
Have you opened up the XE at all? Mine is currently up in the loft, but I can get it down at the weekend and do some step-by-step pictures for you to get it safely into pieces if you want?
To start with, I followed the first response as best I could. Basically, I went out and purchased a ohm-meter and spent a good couple of hours trying to find the break. I'll be honest, I don't have much electrical experience and couldn't get a consistent reading. It did appear that, if the break did exist, it was under the plastic part that I couldn't get to. At this point, I figured that, from what MetalGuy66 had said, the issue must be with the mylar and not on the Mainboard. I had used a magnifying glass to look at the connector on the MB and that seemed brand new. My guess was, if it was the mainboard, I'd be having problems with a lot more than just two keys (probably nothing more than a terrible guess)
So, I took a gamble and assumed that everything else was fine and it was definitely the membrane. So I ordered a replacement from Best Electronics (http://www.best-elec...a.com/130xe.htm) and ordered one of item CB101049 (which I chose based on the fact my existing Mylar sheet had the Mitsumi 56-3217 part number). The chap who runs the website is very helpful and I think I ended up paying about 25 UK pounds in total (inc. P&P). I was desperate, so that didn't seem too much
In fairness, purchasing the Voltometer cost me 20 UK pounds and the conductive paint was 15 UK pounds in our local Halfords (UK car parts supplier).The Mylar turned up within 10 days and worked first time - I was totally chuffed with the service that I got from them and I think my feedback is still on their site somewhere
Obviously, if you take this route, you need to check which one you currently have as Atari also used Sugiyama (FKJ0201131 or FKJ0202131, part number on Mylar) or Action Technology (AA081400, part number on Mylar) pieces."
